mattp

The

If you like, I'll reply eventually by cutting and pasting an essay you might like.

trying to get us back to a noral page width here

after a few more filler posts,

And,

Anyway, just to keep discussion alive, I'll first tell you I see little new in any of Novak's latest disclosures.

Actually, Peter, I believe YOU started a thread in direct reference to past discussions. Hence your choice of thread titles.

Rain?

I think you'll have a tough time with that chaps guy.

The only thing MORE pathetic is claiming mattp approval.

Look again, Pete. I didn't say you deserved such spew. Quite the contrary and, to make you feel better, I"ll add that I think CJ is a jackass. (I'll also add, though, that your pseudo hurt here is a little odd as you started this thread as a taunt in itself.) But, yes, I believe you have suggested your disdain for those who pointed fingers at Rove.

Seriously, I'm on your side, Pete. I've never been one to favor calling each other fags or whatever. You took a cheap shot, though. Try answering the question: have you not sneered at those who have argued that Rove likely had something to do with this?

Now now now. Just because he likes to brandish pseudo arguments but won't stand by his past statements doesn't call for that. Gasbag?

The climbing is moderate enough that carrying over is not altogether terrible either. Some have even enjoyed a summit bivvy.

Hey Peter: I used the search function to look for Peter Puget and "Rove" and these are two of the hits. I'm sure I could find others if I looked, as I believe you've been fairly consistent about scoffing at those who have said that Rove was involved in all of this. I'm pretty sure you could find these quotes yourself using the search function, too. Anyway, you can still argue that even if involved, he was not "responsible" for it. And you could well be right -- though a leak to punish or discredit Wilson would certainly be consistent with his past actions. While you are at it, tell us again about the difference between imminent and gathering threats. I'm so confused.

Peter Puget, 5/2/06: As a sidebar: Johnson declassified and leaked "secret" info to correct BS from a former governemnet official concerning the Vietnam war. Something as yet unproven concerning Mr & Mrs. Vanity Fair Peter Puget, 7/7/2005: Did the Wilson blame Rove out of Anger?

How are the bugs? I'm considering taking my nephew up there this weekend. Will we be leaving a lot of blood behind?

Yup. I know many people have an aversion to downclimbing, but it really isn't difficult and I believe it is much faster and easier to climb this particular route that way. Without the extra gear and with rock shoes instead of your general purpose approach and climbing shoes on, you'll get up the route and back down off the mountain much faster.

If you are wearing comfy rock shoes and are even minimally confident downclimbing, it is very easy to downclimb the route with just two or three short rappels.

I am sure that tests will show one system superior to another in various different scenarios, but it seems to me that usually the most important consideration in using any webolette, cordelette or a extension of your climbing rope is to tie everything together quickly and cleanly so you and your partner or partners can set up, anchor to, and leave any given belay efficiently. Equalizing everything or having it self equalizing so as to reduce potential shock loading is, in my view, slightly less important but seems to draw more attention - at least in these techno discussions. I'm not saying this isn't a concern - all of us have had to set up belay anchors where we really didn't feel we had a secure piece anywhere near, but far more often I see people fooling with complex systems where it just isn't warranted.

At least a half rack.

It should be quite pleasant in September. The bugs should have gone by then and earlier in the month there should be a lot of blueberries whereas later in the month you may start to see some trees turning color. Watch out for snobs from cascadedclimbers.com, running past you with their Mt. Goode racks and acting superior.

Because sewn runners are easier to deal with. The stiffened bar-tacked portion does not get caught on things as much as a knot and you never have to worry about it coming untied. Also, they look cooler. Similarly, I think studies have shown that bent gates unclip themselves more readily than straight gate 'biners, but they are easier to clip. My experience is that many of the wire gates are similar in both respects. Also, they seem more high tech and may be lighter, or resistent to flutter or whatever. (In the case of sewn runners or bent-gate or wire gate biners, they are not so good for other uses such as using the runners for bail anchors or using the 'biners for break bars.) Convenience and coolness are at least as big of a factor as absolute safety or other practical concerns, and many climbers prefer highly specialized gear over the more generally useful tools of olden times - even for general mountaineering.

Some people do better than others with respect both to acclimatization and performance at altitude. However, a person may do well one time, and very poorly another. Hence they say that past performance is not necessarily a predictor of future performance, but at the same time "they" will say that if you've done poorly before (or well) you have a good of doing poorly (or well) in the future. Certainly, good physical and aerobic conditioning, hydration, nutrition, and general health will help but the last time I went to high altitude, I had trained hard by running with a pack on and weight training for several months and I worked pretty hard to eat and drink the right things but I still didn't acclimate. Maybe having a lung infection and intestinal problems didn't help. The time before that, I didn't do any training and walked up to similarly high elevations with no problem. Last time I looked, there was not a 100% clear picture of all the factors that contribute to the various forms of altitude illness and how they interact with each other. That is pretty much true with most health and performance questions, no?

I have a prior obligation that night or I'd gladly attend. Spire Rock is AWESOME and that shoe clinic sounds cool!!! Send it!