mattp

Given my interactions with you, Jay, that is more like the statement I'd expect. You are clearly quite confident in your opinions and well-versed in history and current events. Your prior post, however, said "I have no more interest in discussing politics while climbing than I have in discussing it at Thanksgiving dinner" or something like that. Like I said, I am more than happy to avoid uncomfortable topics - like you don't necessarily ask someone about their ongoing divorce or whatever - but I sometimes wonder why people can be so touch about their political views.

Are you one of those people who puts their skis away in March, just when the season starts to get really good, and then goes out rock skiing in the Fall, when the crags are often still dry and the crowds all gone? If anybody wants to go climbing at Darrington this Fall I've still got a few days left. The place is great, and deserves more attention.

This COULD be an OK topic if you guys wanted it to be. Even if it has been discussed before, there are all kinds of different ideas and issues that relate to the question. It is obviously a good spray topic, as well.

Cue Fairweather or Kakadsky to come on with some scathing reminder that Gonzalez has not yet been indicted for any actual crime, and an argument how all of this is just some partisan witch hunt.

The 1/4" bolts on Silent Running are gone - all except for two museum pieces off to the side at belays.

I find it "interesting" to see posts suggesting that some are somehow uncomfortable discussing politics while out climbing. Whether I agree with my partners' politics or not, I've always thought politics was just another thing to talk about along with everything else. I know that some people are uncomfortable acknowledging disagreement about even something as remote as George Bush's choice of cabinet appointments and if my partner doesn't want to talk about it, I'm happy to change the topic of course -- but I often wonder: why can't this guy discuss what they believe about events and persons that are really quite important?

Its obvious that conservatives can't be good climbers. They have to have loaded guns in their house in order to feel safe - even when they live in some fancy suburb. How do you think they're going to do on the "sharp end?" They hate paying taxes. You gotta pay permit fees to go climbing. They are against education. Do you think they are going to learn their knots? They love war and believe remote control combat can be done with "smart bombs" so nobody but the bad guys get hurt. How are they going to master the zen of real rock climbing? Or hand to hand with the willow thicket guarding the Pickets? They hate the environment. You think they want to go out and hug trees? Clearly, climbing is for liberals only.

Sorry you missed it. The dedicated among us showed up for some fun in the sun and it turned out OK - Saturday at least. We converged on the campsite Friday night and after cocktails and a rousing song and dance number from brother James, followed by toasts to our special friend and a final nightcap, turned in for a long snooze in the cool mountain air. Saturday morning was kind of misty, but after a leisurely breakfast we headed up to Three O'Clock Rock armed for bear and opted for "Silent Running" figuring that, even if it was drippy, we could make it up the first five pitches. Mr. Strickland leads the way. It turned out the rock was totally dry even though it didn't look too promising at first. Crowds on the climb. We even climbed the last pitch which from the ground we had seen shrouded in fog and therefore had left behind the wide gear we thought we'd need for it. Last ascent of the first Jungle Pitch with little bolts. On the descent, we replaced four bolts that sorely needed replacing. There is no more mank on Silent Running except for a couple of 1/4" bolts with Leeper hangers on them as museum pieces along side the chains at a coupe of belays. A good Samaritan racking up Karma points. At the end of the day, we still had time left for more climbing so we headed over and climbed three pitches each of "'Till Broad Daylight" and "Cornucopia." These are excellent 5.8 and 5.10a outings. (Note the grade inflation I've given Cornucopia. It seemed pretty tricky for 5.9.) Saturday night was a wee bit wet, but we had a large canopy set up and the rain didn't dampen our spirits too much. Sunday didn't look too promising so we all got a chance to catch up on lost sleep. In the (late) morning, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast and told jokes at the expense of certain cc.com posters who said they were going to attend but failed to do so. Mushroom omlettes for breakfast.

See you up there. Take the Clear Creek Road about five miles from the pavement on the Mountain Loop Highway (the Clear Creek road is a gravel road, just before but more or less accross from the Clear Creek Campground, about 2 miles SE of Darrington - #2060 or something). Take the left fork and look for us on the right, about a quarter mile after the bridge over Clear Creek.

Cool. That sounds reasonable. Now: what flavor potato chips should I get? The new Thai Chili ones are pretty good!

I'm thinking we can gang up on some of these climbs this weekend. Maybe we could get some shots like this: What do you say? Yeah: you? Don't like slabs you say? Spend a couple of days with us and maybe you can get the hang of 'em. And we can find you some climbs there that have a lot more going on than "just a slab climb," too.

Just about every one of those buttonheads - I think those are the 5.16" ones, aren't they? - are a real bitch to pull and hence I think they are much stronger than they look. However, I think that route or perhaps the anchors there are ripe for some replacement as well. The upper two pitches on Silent Running were never part of the climb. Earlier climbers had the good sense to stop before entering the jungle. They were more interested in this kind of thing in the old days:

You guys get any good pics? I hope to replace a couple of bolts on Silent Running tomorrow and then maybe try the Stolbi face first method of descent. Do you think I ought to try it with or without a belay?

Watccha climb?

Here's one of the easier routes at Three O'Clock Rock and one of the first established in Darrington - in 1970. Big Tree I, 5.7. Take the Clear Creek road about five miles from the Mountain Loop Highway, and turn left on a fork that soon crosses Clear Creek. We'll be camping at the second of two campsites on the right, about a quarter mile beyond the creek. You'll find us at camp, on the rock, or maybe fishing down at the creek. I'm headed up either just before or just after rush hour tonight; that Strickland guy is already there.

I might go looking for dinner 6:30 or 7:00. What is "early?"

Right on. You can claim the spot for us. By the way, one of my Darrington buddies is afraid of the forecast and says a couple of possible raindrops sounds too scary for him. I'm still game to go as long as anyone else wants to, though. There have been at least a couple others who've confirmed their intent to show up...

I like the pictures. This one stumps me: it looks like Fireweed, maybe, but what are those "spikey" plants? Mullen? Self portraits, shot at the times that count, rule.

You develop good coping skills on the choss heaps, and these are skills that come in handy even on climbs on "good" rock. The relatively standard routes on those peaks are relatively OK in this regard, but try the rarely climbed "face" routes some time. Slip Slidin' Away, for example, is relatively terrifying. You'll learn some party management tricks, for sure.

Drive down the road and try to stop before you drive right into the water. Vantage is on the old E-W highway that went through the now submerged town of Vantage.

Yo Will: We plan to be camping along the road toward Exfoliation Dome, which forks left from the main Clear Creek road about five miles from the Mountain Loop Highway. About a quarter mile after it crosses the creek, there is a clearing on the right (the second of two such clearings). You'll find us there, at the swimming hole, or on the rock. Matt