Alasdair

I was up there last night. There was not a lot of light due to the proximity to the new moon, but from what I saw the north face was very white. It is quite likely that the snow on the face is hard and icy due to the rain and subsequent freeze in the area. THe approach is a highway. Leave your snowshoes and skis at home, unless it gets warm again. Like it appears to be doing today.

I am heading up there after work tonight. I will have beta tomorrow. If there is enough light I will take a pic.

Name this peak... And how many people are burried at the bottom of this face.

Wayne and I got from the road to the base of the route by following the creek from the road in less than two hours. Follow the right side of the creek and stay a couple of hundred feet away from the creek. It is as easy and approach as you will find in the Cascades in winter.

I have a question about smoking in the Muir hut. What will a ranger do if they catch you? Several months ago I was in the N. Cascades and ran in to a ranger there. He told us about some party walking down the trail that he just gave a ticket for smoking. Keep in mind, this ticket from a NPS ranger means a day infont of the federal majistrate on drug crimes.

I think it is Howe sound brewery.

Your list seems backwards to me. Dont you think the people who do the most climbing would have fewer posts? Most of the crap posts on this site dont have much to do with climbing at all, and the people who start them appear to have nothing more than a vague interest in the outdoors.

Try doing a search for goode there are at least two topics on Goode conditions. One which I updated with conditions as of last weekend.

We just got off last night. Which way are you planning on doing it? This makes a big diffence. I would recomend the boat right now. We walked in from Rainy Pass, here is the beta I have for that route. Crossing the river is cold, but otherwise ok. If you can do this in the AM there will be a lot less water and it will be easier. I dont recomend the log crossing, as I think it is probably the same log that is described in the Select climbs book. It is rotton and if it broke it would be very serious as it is just above a waterfall. If you want to avoid slide alder print this and take it with you. The aproach up the slope is not too bad. Follow the left drainage until you get to the cliff band follow the cliffband to the far right until you come to the right most drainage. Follow this drainage up the cliff band on the left of the waterfall. Once above the waterfall follow the open slabs until you come to more alder. Look for a small dry drainage (about 200ft to the left of the main drainage) that has less brush than the surrounding area. Go up this drainage for about 200 yds. Now you have open slopes to the base of the Glacier. Access to the butress over the Goode Glacier is strait forward. Go to the left of the buttress about a quarte mile and get on to the glacier at the only place it looks easy. Take glacier to ridge. The glacier does not allow you to climb all the way up to the easy ledges that take you to the crest so get on the ridge whereever possible and climb the loose rock to where you would get on the ridge if the glacier were not broken. This looks hard but it is not, and it is much easier than trying to go strait up. It is solid where it needs to be and well protected. Everything else is totally strait forward. Look for the ledge to get down on your left about 2 pitches from the summit. If you are planning on going over storm King Col, I would recomend not. The glacier is steep, broken and a fall would be very serious. If you are comfortable on steep glaciers then ignore what I just said. There is also a lot of objective hazards from falling rock on this glacier as it is littered in basketball size blocks. One more thing, dont do any of your hiking in the dark. There are tons of bear in there. we saw two on the way out. There are bear tracks all over the trail. I hope I did not ruin any of the sence of adventure for you.

While hanging off of a route several bolts from the top at Smith a couple of years ago I hear "Dude! are you done with that route yet? I want to on-site it" After I clawed my way to the anchors and got down, I got to witness the guy fall off the route at about 3 bolts up. He let out the most amazingly loud "FUCK! fuck fuck fuck" Me and my partner (and most of the other around) promptly laughed our heads off which only pissed the guy off more. Now I often use the term on site for when I fuck something up.

Skip the crowds, leave the car early pack light and do the Exum in a day. That way you can be back in time for 5:00 beers the day of the climb.

Does anyone have any info on Mt. Cruser? I mostly need to know how long it will take to do the approach. Are there any trip reports out there that I just cant find.

At least you did not have to wait 8 hours for your plane.

Any one got any info on climbing in the Idaho Sawtooths? I am wondering if given shitty weather here and a need to get out for a long weekend, whether it is worth the drive to idaho?

Here I am. Jobe, you suck. You seriously need to chill. I guess it is time to give up climbing in Alaska. What the hell do you do on your planned summit day when the weather is not good. Several years ago I got off of Foraker as a storm was heading in. There was quite a few climbers sitting at base camp looking to get out. There was a bunch waiting for Doug, and a unknown number waiting for the other flight services. In the next 12 hours Doug flew multiple flights to get as many people off the mountain as possible. No gear, just people. The only people who got off the mountain that day were people who were flying with Doug. Everyone else spent 3 more days in a storm at KIA. Next time you are up in AK(If you dont die of a heart attack first). Take another flight service. No skin of Dougs back, no skin off yours. Thanks for the entertainment dude. I dont think I have ever herd of anyone getting upset about waiting for 8 hours at KIA.

yes they were on the SE Ridge. I shot the two pictures below in May The ridge looks pretty strait forward except for the Heinous ice fall about 1/3 of the way up. I have not seen a picture of it looking this broken up before. I am sure it is much worse now. That route is fairly well known for avi danger. RBW do you have any more recent pictures of the route? Specifically the icefall section. I am hopeing to climb this next year. http://www.nwclimber.com/climbing/trips/hunter2002/Scan70.jpg http://www.nwclimber.com/climbing/trips/hunter2002/Scan71.jpg

neither.... He's a fat fuck!

Climbing Fatalities on Mt. Foraker Identified Three Alaskan brothers lost their lives in a climbing fall on Mt. Foraker this past week. On Monday, June 17, 2002, National Park Service (NPS) rangers confirmed the deaths of Kevin Strawn, age 27, Anchorage, Travis Strawn, age 21, of Wasilla, and Colby Strawn, age 15, of Eagle River, Alaska. The brothers began their climb of the 17,400-foot peak on June 11. Their last reported contact was made by CB radio on June 13 when the climbers reported their location at 10,500-feet on Mt. Foraker. Although the climbers were not overdue, a pilot with the group’s air taxi flew over the the Southeast Ridge on June 16. The pilot did not see the climbers, but noticed evidence of avalanche activity in the area. On June 17, basecamp personnel notified NPS staff at the Talkeetna Ranger Station that they were concerned about the climbers. At 3:30 p.m., NPS dispatched the Lama helicopter with two NPS rangers to search for the climbers. The rangers found tracks near the 10,500-foot elevation of Mt. Foraker. The bodies, still roped together, were found at approximately 4:40 p.m. on a slope at 8,500 feet. It is unknown what triggered the fall. The bodies were recovered from the mountain on Monday evening with the Lama helicopter.

Wayne1112 and I almost got shelled on Polar Circus a couple of years ago when the road crew was doing avi control on a slope next to or above us. We dont really know where the hell they were shooting the charges but they were damn close and we both thought we were going to die.

If you know anyone who lost a ski on silverstar glacier this winter it has melted out and is sticking out the top of a snow bridge. I would have picked it up and brought it down had I had a rope to go get it. Let me know if you need details of where it is.

When I spoke with the Ranger last weekend he said that the road was blocked by a huge amount of avi debris and it may be a while before it is opened. Probable past July 4.

The dude that spent the night in the crevasse was wearing Jeans and a t-shirt. Oh and it was not a crevasses, it was the moat next to the rocks I believe. Ask Wayne1112 he pulled the guy out. From my experience on Glacier the only cracks on the entire thing were in the small bulge in the center of the Glacier. You should be able to figure out where that area is with out any problem.

I think we should charge everyone who owns a boat $150 every time they go out on the water. No, acctually I think we should make all boaters pay for their own rescues. Can you imagion if they started asking drunk boaters to pay the rescue costs of 150 foot coast guard cutter comming to their aid? Not to mention the rescue costs of slinging the crew off of a little boat in the open ocean with a Dolphin (coast guard chopper). I would be willing to bet rescues over open ocean are MUCH more expensive that mountain rescues. The rescue costs on Lake Washington on any given sunny weekend are probably just as high as the mount hood rescue (if you forget about the crashed Pavehawk).

DAMN!!!! That is amazing. Did you think about doing a lightweight traverse? I was thinking about doing bonanza and then heading back to Holden, and then going up copper and doing a traverse over Fernow, Maude and SFJ to Phelps creek. Do you see this a possible?

How long did you take for your trip on Bonanza, Maude, Fernow, copper, and Seven Fingered Jack? Did you do the traverse from Holden? I want to do this exact thing. Can you give me more beta on your trip?