al

That's an address?

OK guys, help me out. I drew a topo for Fred, typed up some notes, and told him I'll snail-mail it to his house. This is the mailing address he gave me : iF YOU MAIL IT MY ADDRESS IS 6402-L08TH AVENUE sOUTHEAST; nEWCASTLE, wa 98056 Now, is that 108th Ave? Anybody?

Re : the original thread Fred, check your PM

Anybody know about that rescue the second-to-last guy was involved in here in the Cascades?

MattP, Is the third pitch of Tidbits still "old" as the topo says? Seems like I remember good hangers on that section, but maybe it's just me that's old.

Is there an online topo for the Pearly Gates above Icicle Creek? I know a topo exists 'cause I saw it Sunday, but I can't find it on any web site.

The bolts are there, or take the easy slab to the left of route and rack some cams.

Dave, we had the place(Power Line Wall) to ourselves, although I did see climbers around the parking lot. Lots of sunshine helped salvage the day, and no dogs either.

We must have just missed you, Dave. We got up to the snow around 11am, just as it started to drizzle. Before the rock got wet noticed that some of the routes had water slicks on various pitches, but many pitches looked good past the first thirty feet or so. After waiting till 1pm we gave up and went to Erie instead. I would recommend mountain boots for kick stepping the final portion of the trail to the base of the rock.

Beal's Stinger, at 9.4mm is the lightest advertized single I'm familiar with. My alpine rope is a Beal Booster, 9.7mmX50M, at 62g/Meter and impact force of 680 daN. Forget the 6mm. I went that route before and spent 30 minutes untangling it after the first throw. It'll tangle like fishing line. My extra/rap rope is a Beal 8.1X50M Iceline. Light weight for the second to carry, yet good enough for a third to come up on.

"I want to shoot these beasts off the crags... Should have just blown them away. we gotta take em out. kill kill kill" Sounds like a script from every bad movie I've ever seen. I say, bring back the wolves. I'd hate to be mistaken by a goat when I turn grey.

I think Matt's right on. I have the opposite problem as you, brought on by climbing at places like Vantage. So I'm committed this year to stuffing my hands/fingers into cracks of all kinds. I just have to drive to those places. Sounds like you were raised on Sierra granite, where cracks abound and a trad route meant cracks. I miss that kind of rock.

That was so bad it crashed on me.

I recently bought a pair of Stubai Torols from Pro Mountain with the universal binding. They also come with the "pro binding" for your new-matic needs. They have some really aggressive fronts and secondarys, and at $100, the price is right. I've only used them on water ice so far, but its not what I bought them for. I just wanted a good crampon for my leathers for alpine use.

Check out the thread on Cedar creek Wall.

If you go through Weed, plan on long stretches between towns. Same with Klamath Falls.

Yes, a new form of Bulger to emerge on the scene.

Coming in from the town of Joshua Tree the first major set of rocks past Trashcan Dome (roadside) is Horse Bluffs (or something with a horse in it - I don't have my guidebook with me). You'll see it off to the right (west)from the road, with some nice crack systems and climbs that face east, getting early morning sun.

Max & Joe, Thanks for the feedback

Does anyone have experience using Lowe Alpine's TriplePoint shells and/or gloves? Likes/dislikes, comments, etc...

When is the Seattle session scheduled? One simple procedure I'd like to see implemented is for all climbers that are issued climbing passes in winter be given the current combination to the gate. Last week we came down to the gate around 10:30pm because we were so late returning from the summit and there was the closed gate to greet us. My partner managed to "find" the combo from someone, but who needs the uncertainy when your dead tired?

Nice sites, Eric. I learned to climb here in the 80s so these areas and Cal granite are dear to my heart. With many years of "recent" developement, I'd be like a stranger to this place now. The sites will help me check out new stuff.

Get a copy of Tahoe Rock Climbing by Jenkewitz-Meytras, unless there's a new guidebook out.

The ice flow at Baker was good today. Mostly solid with a few soft spots. Screws went well with the exception of some hollow spots. Great powder there as well, so bring all your stuff!

I scoped out the NY Gully with binocs back in January so the info is dated, but it didn't look "in" if your looking for a fair degree of ice. Another problem with lack of TRs is that most folks are powder and ski oriented in winter rather than climb oriented. When the snowpack stabilizes I'm sure there'll be more TRs. In the mean time, I feel your pain.