Dru

I seem to recall reading a biographical sketch of Beckey which related that in about 1974, Beckey and Rowell were heading for a unclimbed line in the Sierras. Beckey got bad vibes and decided he wanted to turn around. Rowell insisted everything was gonna be Ok and refused to turn around and descend with Fred - instead, he went on to solo the line. Fred was allegedy pissed off by this to the point he never climbed with Rowell again after this! Anybody know if this story is true or not?

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Good to hear some of this info., but am still undecided. I perused their website to try and find out what groups they support or if they just lobby on their own. I know someone said that they used to work in conjunction with Access Fund, but do they partner with groups like Sierra Club, Earthfirst, WWF, etc? Greg W oops if they partner with Earth First they just lost Fairweather as a member!

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by Dru: you gotta wonder how many of those prisoners are making bongs and shivs and stuff with the metalworking machinery... I knew a guy that taught welding to inmates at a prison in Indiana. I asked him the same question and he told me that each inmate had to check out an exact number of welding electrodes and pieces of metal and check back in the same number or they would have to turn over the whole place until everything is accounted for. Probably a similar practice here. All-in-all it sounds like a good program. I am sure the pro-union parasites hate it because they can't get in there to organize. However, the inmates are being paid and some of that offsets their burden on us, the taxpayer; gotta like that. Maybe I'll hire an inmate to post on cc.com for me so I can get more done at work...or the other way around. Greg W when i worked in a warehouse (not quite a prison but we did have timeclocks ) they had a similar set up plus security cameras and you wouldnt believe how much stuff went missing nonetheless.....

if'n its a goretex or other spendy jacket you could try warrantying it to the manufacturer.

snaffle sniffer

Huh. So what if you're broke, do they just leave you there injured?

Layton you would probably enjoy North Face of Plinth, I think.

See that wasnt an emergency, that was just for the flight, i would guess... even Whitesaddle has stopped taking cheques from climbers thery dont already know now... bad bouncing experience last summer.

quote: Originally posted by Roger: I'm pretty sure that's a different Sally you're thinking of. Think "All in the Family," not "Smokey and the Bandit." Still, it's a good idea... HC would seem to be the perfect humanitarian aid food - packs well, lots of calories... "Horsecock: you loved it as kid, you trust it as an adult." Beef HC for the Indian subcontinent and pork HC for the Muslims, right... How come there aint no religious groups that hold the chicken sacred?

quote: Originally posted by iain: Yes, I think it applies more to places like Chamonix, etc where rescue is a professional service, or places like B.C. (correct me if I'm wrong Dru) where you are highly likely to be hit with a helicopter bill for an evac. That said, I carry AAC insurance to demostrate that I am willing to be responsible for my activities in the mountains in the USA, even if the percentage of money going to climbing rescue is so miniscule compared to general SAR. In Oregon, there is a provision in chapter 401 ORS for billing a climber who is considered negligent. How is negligence defined? It is worth reading it to find out, as crap such as MLU, cellphone, etc is mentioned. I'll post it if people would like to see it, otherwise you can find it on the oregon gov't web site. I believe CO has a similar law? While I think there is only a remote chance of AAC insurance being used in the states, I could not afford to deal with the consequences otherwise and I consider it a political move more than anything. They dont bill us yet and I dont think they bill you guys (tourists) either... I think one time they did bill some teenage snowboarders who got avalanched 5 minutes after ignoring a patroller and crossing a boundary line into a loaded and unstable gully...

Buhler....buhler......

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by erik: there were three things in life that i said i would never do. 1. is to never smoke ciggarettes ... Gotta call bullshit on that one, E-dog. What's your second favorite hobby? Greg W Ya he said cigarettesgreg... he's saving his lungs for the goods!!!

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: One evening John O’Reilly and his toastmasters club were hitting the Guinness and having a contest to see who could come up with the best toast. John O’Reilly hoisted his beer high and said, “Here’s to spending the rest of me life between the legs of me wife!” With that, he was instantly awarded the prize of Toast of the Night. Later that evening, he went home and told his wife, Mary, “I won the prize for the best toast of the night.” “Aye,” she said, “and what was your toast?” “Here’s to spending the rest of me life sitting in church beside me wife!” he replied. “Oh, that is very nice indeed, John!” Mary said. The next day Mary ran into one of John’s toasting buddies on the street corner. The man chuckled and said, “Did you know John won the prize the other night with a toast about you, Mary?” “Aye,” she said. “I was a bit surprised myself. You know, he’s only been there twice. Once he fell asleep, and the other time I had to pull him by the ears to make him come!” Cleeshterfeeshter told it first: on page 4 [ 08-13-2002, 01:06 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

You know, Rowell was one of the few out there who could challenge Bridwell for bizarre slide show narration. Went to a slideshow he gave in Vancouver a few years back and he was talking about space travel and taking pictures on the Moon while shots of small planes and Jaques Cousteau were playing on the screen. Then shots taken by the astronauts came up on screen and he started talking about the Dalai Lama! The shot of Harding on the FA of S Face of Half Dome that was on the cover of Climbing a few years back is also a great one. Harding has been suffering again (probably ran out of wine) and his haggard eyes and unshaven face make him look like a demonic Fred Beckey.

quote: Originally posted by trask: quote:Originally posted by MountainMan: YAY! YAY ??? what the hell does that mean? (yet another compiler) YAY = your 'arness... yikes! what Quebec climbers say when their buddy forgot to double-back.

limestone is choss....mostly...

quote: Originally posted by slothrop: quote:Originally posted by Dru: grande queue de cheval dans son cul... "large tail of horse in his bottom". ha. 'queue', while literally meaning tail, is Quebec slang for... hmmmm, what would you think "queue de cheval" would mean on this site?

quote: Originally posted by erik: ummm mtn man, trask is cool and all(definition subjective like climbing grades) but i am my own obnoxious person. --------------- touch the pet! --------------- toujours pretty

maybe.

quote: Originally posted by trask: quote:Originally posted by MountainMan: I don't know french. Toujour Pret is the motto of the US Army's 2nd Cav. Whatever you said, I'm sure it's just as juvenile as the rest of your posts. What Iain said was something to this effect, "That, it is trés amusing. Always stupid and always tedious, I decide, the man of the mountains." hahahaha 'that's very funny. Always stupid and always tedious, i think, mountainman.' moi, je pense que le petit gars des montagnes ne connait pas que il y'a une difference grande entre l'humor <spray> des grimpeurs de la Cascades, et avait un grande queue de cheval dans son cul...

quote: Originally posted by The Anti-Twight: Don't forget about the AAC library and the wealth of books,maps,accounts of ascents in the AAJ and the fact that as a member, you can have someone dig up beta, on just about most routes/most countries. Also, how much would you have to pay individually for the two books? And being insured on any peak 6000m and under,anywhere is a great deal. You also get a phonebook, with all of the AAC members #'s, so if you need some beta on freeing the nose in a day, call Lynn Hill. Hell, if you want a date, call Lynn Hill! i hear lynn is tough on her men and burns through an average of 2 per year... im certain her new bio written by greg child has more info on her love life...

quote: Originally posted by sayjay: I went climbing with this guy that i was really hot for and was trying to impress him... so I picked a lead that was pushing it a bit for me to show him what a studette I was. Unfortunately I was so distracted by this guy that I was a good 20' up the climb before I went to place a piece and realized I'd forgotten the entire rack at the bottom of the climb from what i hear you had a pretty nice rack with you though

quote: Originally posted by erik: 1234 Iamgonnabeatyourasstopulp Ave trailer #420 seattle, wa 98545 bring it!! hey i think i left my crack pipe at that trailer last time i was visiting! it should be easy to identify cuz it was attached to my pit bull's chain!

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by Dru: Seriously, how many ex-cons do you think end up going to work for other biner manufacturers??? In 'biner manufacture, I am sure workers learn basic machine shop skills, blueprint reading, etc. These are all transferable skills. Plus, it takes their mind off of the "drop-the-soap" game in the shower that morning Greg W you gotta wonder how many of those prisoners are making bongs and shivs and stuff with the metalworking machinery...

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Slightly off-topic, but several people have brought it up: What is the background on Omega-Pacific using prison labor? On the surface it sounds like a good idea; at least they learn a trade. Greg W Seriously, how many ex-cons do you think end up going to work for other biner manufacturers???