Dru

I have got out the heat gun and am trying to put extra bends in my carbon fibre shafts so I can go leashless this year - cause we all know LEASHEZ ARE AID!!!

Cypress Hill Hitz From Tha Bong.

Replicant is in and new alpine ice route in the Bugaboos. Dont forget to bookmark this one WILL GADDS ICE PAGES

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: For the record. I have posted about 15 times on this site in the last year and nothing negative. I am not Trask, I have no avatars, I don't spray on anybody or anything or socialize in the climbing community that graces this website any longer. I am not anybody on this site anymore and I like it that way. It was a humorous work distraction for awhile, but I have moved on. I climb, ski, hike, scramble or do something in the mountains almost everyday which is the real juice not this pathetic bunk. Only reason I'm on here now is because it's 2am, I'm at work and thought I'd see what was up. Seems like nothing has changed. Gossip central. Take care Eric (Pope). Mike And he updated www.alpinelite.com too!

I know BB reads this site occasionally cause I ripped on his Wash Pass guide here a year ago for chestbeating and claiming a FA for himself Beckey says was made the previous year by a Canadian party - and he sent me a nasty email about it

Is he next on your "list"

George Clinton Bootsy Collins Maceo Parker James Brown

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:Originally posted by Crackbolter:

Stefan uses "tape on" crampons cause he cant afford straps (poor student). Thats gonna suck on Denali next spring. "Team TapeWorm". Incidentally I heard a rumor there is gonna be a huge clusterfuck of 18 year old Canadians storming up Rainier and epicing this weekend as the duct tape peels off their crampons....

I agree with different thread for USA and Canadian ice other than that leave it where it is. Also, right now there are threads on Slesse in "N Cascades", "BC" and "Climbers Board". If there are more forums it will just mean more places to search thru to find the thread you are looking for.

Dwayner is trolling, why should his troll be taken seriously just because of the subject matter?

i have noticed that more than a few parties require bivouacs on outer space

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: No spooning Drul you can cut open a goat or just die from frostbite. Day climb is easier in a lot of ways. Dont carry squat 3 nuts, 2 hexes, down jacket, pipe, bud.

quote: Originally posted by fern: quote:Originally posted by Dru: I think Fern still wants to drag me up it as a 1 day trip this weekend but we will see. we will see ... this is what they call chestbeating in advance. now everyone will laugh when we fail. It would be cool to have you along Ray , ... if we go. Your other comment is inaccurate. I am already practicing my evisceration skills for when we end up doing the forced bivi and I have to cut open a goat and crawl inside it to stay warm. SINCE it sounds like Fern is gonna kick me if I suggest spooning Maybe Ray will spoon with me. Or show me the secret 1954 beckey cache of tennis shoes and Sterno.

Thought I would put this on a different thread than the Goran (with Umlaut over O) Kropp accident thread. I disagree with renaming a route such as Erdens proposal to rename Air Guitar. Not only is it confusing to those familiar with the old name but what do you do if someone else dies on it - change the name again? The North Face of the Eiger 1938 route might have its name changed 20 or 30 times by now. I think instead of associating the name with the accident site the best thing is to climb something new and name it in homage.

Can we do them all in 1 day?

Pete Namlook/Bill Laswell "Psychonavigation IV" Thievery Corporation "DJ Kicks" compilation Blackalicious "Blazing Arrow" Public Enemy "Fear of a Black Planet" Waldeck "Balance of the Forces" RL Burnside "Burnside on Burnside" Neil Young "Sleeps With Angels" Ninja Tune compilation "Missed Flipped And Skipped: Xen Cutz Vol III"

Most onerous on low angle slabs. Yak Peak has shear on the slabs below where the bolts are but the bolted part is too stteep to hold snow.

Now Im really confused, which of you is Chepe?

snow/ice creep can involve TREMENDOUS shear forces enough to rip bolts right out of the rock. this happened on many climbs in the Darrans in New Zealand. A friend did her MSc on snow slab shear and the forces were enormous but develop slowly over months. Tens or hundreds of times higher than the max force a bolt can take. especially if the bolt freezes into the ice and moves as a mass with it when it shears. It kind of tells you why when you notice how smooth those slabs are and figure what it was that keeps them that way.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: b-rock that is pretty funny What do they call that stickpoint usually called cheating. that is how we got rope up on Scarface last year for the King Swing.

quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: quote:Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker: I wa glad I brought my down jacket. I see why they call them belay jackets. This is when you are supposed to say, "I was glad I brought my 800+ fill goose down Feathered Friends down jacket with Epic by Nextec shell fabric. Man, you guys gotta get one!!! I see why they call them belay jackets" Horsecock will keep you warmer than down over the long term.

quote: Originally posted by RobBob: ...what's under sports bras... sport chix trad chix [ 10-07-2002, 01:37 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

i thought you were an avatar of that ray borbon fellow

i am an avatar of myself