Dru

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: Dru, sounds like you got an inferiority complex. The only time I've heard someone who "bagged on" the Cascades was a friend bitchin about how hard it was to find someone in Leavenworth willing to do anything other than boulder. I was referring to Twight etc. I think most climbers who end up bailing on the PNW do so due to the weather, and better road and trail access to the mts. in other ranges. Incidentally I see this years AAJ AGAIN only prints Grade IV routes from the Cascades yet loads of II and III's from the desert. What up with their "Grade IV mimimum requirement for a new route reporting" selective application, anybody know?

No those would be Foppy Cranksters

Chat is like PM ing except for the stupid spelling and stuff. You guys should just all start Im ing each other on www.bigmuscle.com. Ask for Beefchub.

i just want to say 'razor sharp tweekers'

not all ice is as sketchy/avalanche prone as thermo gully.

Those UV and sticker degrading helmet things are pretty theoretical. If you retire your biner everytime you drop it 2 feet to the floor while racking up, you might want to retire helmet too. Hell, ALL your gear could be invisibly degraded and unsafe. Send it to me! I will dispose of it properly. Note: Black Diamond makes special STICKER PACKS for their helmets. Either 1) stickers do not degrade helmets or 2) they use a special non-degrading glue thus justifying the $13 cost of the sticker pack. I always wondered why there isnt a sticker in that pack that says " I am a fool with money to burn."

quote: Originally posted by Geek the Greek: Yep, MEC rocks. Biggest pain in the ass, though, is that they will only ship their own brand stuff to "foreign" (as in, outside Canada) addresses. So no cheap Arc'T packs by mail - you have to drive up to the store to get them! supposedly they are limiting the us graymarket that way. obviously the mfgers cant impose the same agreement on barabbe's etc.

red nutz I like watching Lions Jaw attempting sport climbers look for something to stick-clip as they stand confused at the bottom of it.

yeah i saw Iain clip a bolt with the bent gate end of a quickdraw total sketch man dude should stick to TRing

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: will someone tell sharma "kaya" says hi? he should remember me ... TLG's got a "list" too!

Looking at those giant panoramas always makes me dizzy.

meow

we better get a cat.

Fine Coast Range choss Next post should be a snafflehound!

quote: Originally posted by Figger Eight: Is it aid if you have webbed feet? Depends how wet the climb is. But I bet TNF would love to know how ducks manage to be the ones who have real waterproof down coats!

Its funny, the mtn faces of the PNW are among the biggest in the lower 48 (esp. compared to Colorado chosspiles) yet get bagged on by most - worse access than Colorado/Utah, not as much quality rock as Sierras. YET, large faces of poor rock are what MAKES most alpine hardmen. Look at the Euro dudes like the Poles and Slovenians. Steve House "What is really needed to get good at hard alpine climbing is lots of terrain in the 5.8, WI4 range to practice moving fast on" {paraphrase} thats exactly what PNW has so much of. In alpine climbing, choss is good, but you'd never know it from reading the mags. Yosemite has fostetred a mindset in American climbning that good climbing requires good rock, which is total BS. In fact many of my favorite memories of alpine routes are of dealing with choss. Admittedly I would not want to crag on it but in the mtns it is just one added technical factor.

You, sir, are no Scotteryx. For one thing you dont have your own self-promotional website all about what routes you saw someone TR! [ 11-21-2002, 10:58 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

http://www.bostonphoenix.com/boston/news_features/top/features/documents/02537776.htm Also a scene of chimps beating on each other with sticks: just like 2001, where is the Monolith

DPS what did you say to get the nasty PM? I wanna get one too!

Drive up to Lillooet and get your employer to pay for it

"Back in the 1970's we didn't top rope for ever and ever like people do now. You went out once or twice then started leading, or quit." - Kobus Barnard. Words of wisdom which have served me well over the years. Basically my opinion is that anyone whio can TR a 5.8 with no falls (which is pretty much everyone) should try leading. As for when to lead harder stuff - when you have led enough easier stuff you want to try something more challenging. The "pyramid" theory says that if you want to lead your first 10a, you should do it after successfully leading 3 or 4 5.9s of a similar style. On the other hand, on sport climbing I see people who have never ever successfully onsighted 11b working 12c so I guess its whatever you can pull on there. [ 11-21-2002, 09:53 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

That whale is always worth seeing though!

quote: Originally posted by TimL: quote:Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: Great thread! Biggest dissapointment was not getting to meet Scot'teryx. With a website that detailed do you really ever need to meet the guy in the flesh? Just replay the Dirty Little Dance video a few more times

talk a lot of shit before hand about how much you want to climb route X and how you are gonna send, etc. then go there with people who will call BS if you fail to send. peer pressure gets you up routes. seriously, if you are worried about leading a route rated 5.whatever, 1) ask around for opinion on what a 'soft' one is, 2) lead a few routes rated 5.whatever-1, 3) top rope a few routes of 5.whatever+1 grade then get on your chosen route and send! If you are really worried, headpoint it by TRing it a few times until you can do a no falls TR every time then go for the lead.