Dru

i don't think that is an ibex

the oldest

Oh no, no, no! yes

Tyler Snafflehound Is Bad Pagetop

like there are any full pitches in texas anyways

and when jah loveth and with the grace of baby jesus and lots of green pipeweed the difference between belay devices becomes an illusion just like time and space and bathing u dirty hippy

Just make sure you do a better job than eg. Chic Scott did with Pushing the Limits And remember history continues to the present day. I consider those dudes like Kit Lewis and Pete Doorish just as historical as Beckey and Schoening.

my clock says 4:20 right now

naw she finally got a daisy chain and doesnt have to use the rope as a belay anchor anymore

don't most belayers notice when the end of the rope is coming and just pull the rope out of the device slightly ahead of time? what if the crux of the pitch is the last few meters to the next ledge? Then you pull the belayer off their ass/feet/up the wall/into the first bolt/first piece of gear/off a ridge/into a roof/into a traversing fall into corner...just like when simultaneously climbing...but only on those 50.02m and 60.01m pitches. or if you are prominent local climber R.F. you make your leader drill a bolt station 1m short of a wicked ledge because you refuse to simulclimb

You must have not thought it through. The distance from the anchor to the harness is the same if using a knot on the rope to hang from or not. The only difference is the knot. If you are not using the rope as an attachment point to the anchor it still runs down to your harness so this distance is unusable in your book. If your not fast enough to take off the belay at any point you should pratice some more. An essential alpine skill!! No need for the leader to stop! just take them off. one day you will figure out what i'm talking about dru, your point only seems valid on those hardman 50.01 and 60.02 metre pitches you do when you do what it is that you do ON LEAD...and that's only when you're doing it toughie style with no good gear between belays...because if you've got good gear between you...no worries but a little simultaneous climbing which we known you can do when you do what you do. less to do if you just clove hitch the climbing rope into that belay anchor and pretty hard to mess up. plus then you don't have to bring that daisy chain...just a locking carabiner, eh? with that saved weight you could bring a few more of those tasty Tom Horne's doughnuts. if you have to simulclimb it is faster taking down the anchor if you use a daisy than if you use a knot

don't most belayers notice when the end of the rope is coming and just pull the rope out of the device slightly ahead of time? what if the crux of the pitch is the last few meters to the next ledge?

tied in with a

i bet she passed her masseuse exam and gets to go hands on. word is polish bob's clients will be deserting him. i mean, a massage from muffy or a massage from glasgowkiss ...

You must have not thought it through. The distance from the anchor to the harness is the same if using a knot on the rope to hang from or not. The only difference is the knot. If you are not using the rope as an attachment point to the anchor it still runs down to your harness so this distance is unusable in your book. If your not fast enough to take off the belay at any point you should pratice some more. An essential alpine skill!! No need for the leader to stop! just take them off. one day you will figure out what i'm talking about

i'm anticipating you by an hour

3somes including clove-hitched bondage! AND daisy chains this would be trhe perfect place for daisy's avatar pic but it looks like the link broke

onsighting on TR counts as a free point for your 8a.nu scorecard Iain!!!

oh, daler's 4" has got you hot, now you wanna brag about your 3somes

1) the distance from the anchor to the harness is unusable rope if tied in with the rope but usable if on a sling. 2) they may not be at a good spot where they can stop while you take the rope out of the belay device 3) i don't wanna hear about your usable 4" . if you were any good you wouldn't be a washington climber anyhow.

DAMN you caught me. I made up the whole thing. The south face of Ibex is choss. There are no more climbable lines there. Better stay away until Shaun and I can go back and safetyfy it with shot crete and lots of 1/2" bolts

well, when it happens to you you will see how it DOES use extra rope 1) the amount that is incorporated into the knot and the distance between the knot and the harness 2) the loop between the anchor knot and the belay device if you belay off slings or a daisy or cordellette or PAS you can use this extra rope (1 & 2) to extend the distance the leader can lead. when linking pitches or alpine climbing this amount can be significant as you will find out when you have to use it!!!

full strength adjustable anchor without rope for you

It sure must suck to have to worry about something that almost never happens. of course when you are busy rap bolting sport slab climbs you have the luxury to design pitches that never use a full 60m

using rope for an anchor uses rope the leader & second can use to extend the length of alpine pitches. switching the rope anchor for a sling anchor partway thru the pitch uses time and is not always convenient; why not just use a sling in the first place escaping the belay in emergency is easier if your rope is not part of it so; not using the rope for an anchor is faster, easier and safer not to mention using the rope for an anchor is just plain lame but hey if you guys wanna be lame go for it