Dru

Some people will tell you to rack it all on your harness. Fuck 'em they probably sport climb too. Put the GEAR on your harness. Rack nuts, hexes and tRicams on your "off" hand and cams on your "on" hand side. For instance if you are right handed put cams on your right hand side. Reason being if you are pumped you are going to quickly throw in a cam and its easier to use your main hand to do it. Whereas to fiddle in a nut or hex you are probably going to be at some sort of rest so you can use your less dextrous off hand. Put the draws on a shoulder sling around your neck, or a gear sling (better). This way you can grab draws with either hand. Don't do it the other way around (ie gear on a sling and draws on the harness). People will tell you to, but they are not adherents of the "system". The big advantage is thjat when you are familiar with this system you always know which hand to reach for what piece of gear with. With gear on the shoulder sling the gear gets mixed up. The one time you vary from this system is leading a dihedral, with liebacking. Don't rack any gear on the side thats pushed against the dihedral wall as it will be hard to get at. Oh yes - only take the gear you need up the climb. Why would you take big hexes and a #4 camalot up a finger crack?

Strategy: http://www.jamestown.org/publications_details.php?volume_id=397&&issue_id=2907 Using America as a tool to unite Islam.

yeah you ARE guessing on the last one!

Group Therapy and Healy's Haunted House are fun even if they are full of chimneys and OW's. Jubilant Song is a really good one, you can even bivi out there by your car if you want to.

Rideout and Tomyhoi, but NOT South Nesakwatch Spire The Cheam Range, but not Mt Northgraves The north face of Judge Howay, but not the north face of Robie Reid North Hozomeen, but not South Hozomeen

Yeah, if he's making new hit videos, he isn't dead!

The best ice climbing gloves come with velcro palms so you can stay warm after the climb.

maybe at al_qaeda_jihad_die_american_scum.com

outram

How about: the CIA has Osama in captivity and is forcing him to make videos threatening America therefore causing those scared of terrorism to vote Bush rather than Kerry. WTF why didnt he just come right out and say "I, Osama, would totally vote for Kerry if I was a US citizen.". Maybe they could get Saddam to do a similar testimonial.

Does it have something to do with winter ascents?

stay away from the methanol

So much for the theory the CIA had him in captivity and was just waiting for the election to reveal capture thus giving Bush a rise in the polls.

I thought it was "Peaks that are technical climbing via the easiest route" vs. "Peaks with a non technical route up".

10,000 wolves can't be wrong.

RuMr = bottom feeder

wasted words bla bla bla

This from someone who doesn't even have ONE spare at the moment, Ms. "BCAA Will Come Get Me"

http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/crr_pdf/2001/crr01364.pdf This is a very interesting report (166 pages long). It has data on various forces generated by jumarring, climbing TR and lead.. For instance, jumarring or top-rope falls develop about 2kN of force for a 75 kg person. The Ushba Basic ascender cuts the rope at around 5.5 kN. So that's why you won't want to use the Ushba (or an ascender like a Jumar) for a lead belay. Or, like I've seen some people do, extend the device with a sling to your harness instead of clip directly to it. Worth reading. I think there's details on the GriGri modification too.

moose sausage is yummy

You forget Canadians are not allowed to work in the US without a green card.

i think it had more to do with height.. that your head is at his nipple level when you stand up, and mid-thigh when you kneel... most inconvenient, you'd have to use a couple pillows

Heh... I have heard that story before from other people who were there so it must be true!

There's some sweet ice back in the canyons under some conditions. at the head of Oak Creek I seem to recall eying a couple steep falls on the north facing walls while climbing Black Orpheus. Up on Charleston they have some 2 pitch WI5 too from what I heard.