Dru

I am thinking of doing some hanger replacement at a local Fraser Valley crag on Sumas Mountain. Of about 15 bolts placed at this cliff (mostly in the 1990s), about 5 still have hangers, 1 has been chopped, and 9 have had hangers stolen. The options as I see it are: 1) replace hangers on bolt studs 1A: use good quality hangers, like Fixe hangers. this will probably result in hangers being stolen again. So: 1B: use poorer quality hangers. I have a few dozen old SMC hangers which I could use. This will be cheaper on my pocketbook (I think I paid $5 for all of them combined) and the SMC hanger is not necessarily as desirable as a brand new $3 hanger from the climbing store. OTOH it means the climbs will be rebolted with old skool hangers, which are probably only rated to 15 kn or so instead of the modern standard of 40 kn for a thick Fixe hanger. 1C: i could use caulk or glue to ensure the hangers stay fastened on. but, i have heard that this promotes corrosion by trapping moisture in the bolt hole where it attacks the bolt invisibly. 2: I could rebolt the whole crag with glue-in ring bolts or Petzl Coeur longlifes which it is hard to steal hangers from. this won't prevent chopping though. 3: I could just foget about it and do what I have been doing, which is bring my own hangers with me, and remove them when I leave. So what is the best option?

Google says: 1,060,000 results for pyjama 813,000 results for pajama Looks like pyjama with a y wins.

Office dress code: First week. Send around a memo: Thursday is Jeans Day! Everyone wears jeans on Thursday Second week: Thursday is Pyjamas day! Everyone wears pyjamas. Third week: Thursday is clown day! Come dressed as a clown! No one but him comes dressed as a clown. Make sure you schedule some important meetings for him that day too.

you must have missed the testimony of the witnesses who said they pulled on gear through all the cruxes.

Nobody passed on this climb either. Some eerie parallels!!

Verily, Saved Christians

A squirrel is just a rat with fur on its tail.

Who's this with Alpinfox?

Don't think there is anything, at least from the 1970's on.

Only roped up at the BRIDGE? What if you got attacked by a menacing burkshard somewhere on the descent?? Rowr!

I have no sympathy for the timid in the line up but I still feel that good style would have been to climb a route within their ability to free. In this case it sounds like the desire to do a specific route might have blinded them to the fact it was a bit above the level they could climb in good style. I bet there weren't any lineups on Orbit or Champagne. In fact had they been on a less travelled route they could have climbed without the pressure from behind you mention (is that anything like the reacharound?)

What are you looking for? There is no online index yet.

You can get caught in a line up anywhere but when the line up on the freeway is caused by two grannies driving their electric wheelchairs side-by-side in the slow and fast lanes, you might get steamed. So far the desicussion has been about the "right to be there". Maybe the discussion should be about "aspiring to climb in good style"?

You mean they didn't move it over by Vantage? I thought it might have suddenly gotten dryer there.

So much hype for something that is no longer that newsworthy. First American to climb the 14... that's like being first Pole to free the Salathe.

this is just glacier walking, right - not ice climbing. hell she could use a pair of golf shoes if worst came to worst.

These snaffles got U outnumbered.

10g! fatty

Spectre $8.75 CDN Neutrino $8.50 CDN DMM LiveWire $7.50 CDN 7.50 CDN is about the same as $5.95 US, no?

DMMS are less spendy at MEC

How.itt is the new steaksauce fido

Damn pax you're the Dan How*Witt of the bike commuter world. Got a dog yet?