I am thinking of doing some hanger replacement at a local Fraser Valley crag on Sumas Mountain. Of about 15 bolts placed at this cliff (mostly in the 1990s), about 5 still have hangers, 1 has been chopped, and 9 have had hangers stolen.
The options as I see it are:
1) replace hangers on bolt studs
1A: use good quality hangers, like Fixe hangers. this will probably result in hangers being stolen again. So:
1B: use poorer quality hangers. I have a few dozen old SMC hangers which I could use. This will be cheaper on my pocketbook (I think I paid $5 for all of them combined) and the SMC hanger is not necessarily as desirable as a brand new $3 hanger from the climbing store. OTOH it means the climbs will be rebolted with old skool hangers, which are probably only rated to 15 kn or so instead of the modern standard of 40 kn for a thick Fixe hanger.
1C: i could use caulk or glue to ensure the hangers stay fastened on. but, i have heard that this promotes corrosion by trapping moisture in the bolt hole where it attacks the bolt invisibly.
2: I could rebolt the whole crag with glue-in ring bolts or Petzl Coeur longlifes which it is hard to steal hangers from. this won't prevent chopping though.
3: I could just foget about it and do what I have been doing, which is bring my own hangers with me, and remove them when I leave.
So what is the best option?