What I still don't understand is why people are so against rehearsal and wiring before a lead? If a sport climber spends a week working and leads with all the draws pre-placed and the first few bolts cheater sticked, that's fine, but if a gear climb is worked to the same degree everyone gets upset and says, Bolt it??
PS Off topic but same area, is it true that Supercrack has never been repeated, & if so, why?