Jump to content

scot'teryx

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1144

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by scot'teryx

    Rainier/DC conditions?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I was up there this weekend and it was quite crowded.

     

    Here is my TR:

    Friday August 16

    Headed up to Camp Muir

    Many of the folks we talked to on their way down mentioned turning around high up on the mountain due to bad snowbridges and crevasses. I did not like this news, as this was to be my wife's 3rd attempt on the mountain and I wanted success. We set up camp under gorgeous skies and no wind.

     

    Saturday August 17

    John was to arrive today and bring the rope for our summit bid on Sunday morning. It was windy the entire day, even though there we clear skies, the wind made it unbearable to stand outside as it was quite cold. John arrived around 3pm and set up camp next to us. We got our plan for the summit, and got great beta from Glenn at the ranger station. He mentioned some junctions to watch for, and where to go on the cleaver, and where to move fast and such.

     

    Sunday August 18

    (well, really saturday at 1130pm) The classic Suunto watch alarm whispered softly "beep beep" - the thing never works, but somehow we all wake up. We leave camp at 1230am and head out on the Cowlitz Glacier. There were about 2-3 small crevasse crossings which were small. We made our way up Cathedral Gap and continued on to Ingraham Flats. We meet some friends that had camped there but they were behind schedule so we continue on towards the dreaded "cleaver". We try to haul ass through the Ingraham Icefall, but the party in front of us is lost and cant get on the cleaver, and tension is high - we yell, but I don't think that helped. We finally get on the cleaver and make our way up what trail we think there is. RMI is 1.5 hours behind us, and we are almost in the pole position. After about on hour of scree hell we finally reach the top of the cleaver at 12,000 feet. It is real windy, and cold - we fuel up and continue on. We hit the junction and continue straight up. It's only 430 so we still have got an hour before full sunrise. We loose our position while on our break and get stuck in a bottleneck. The trail is ridiculously marked as it is a 6 inch to 2 foot trench at times, switchbacking back and forth. This continues on and on, and we have to wait for all the teams in front of us, and few let us pass by. After tedious switchbacks, we finally arrive at the summit at 7am. The wind has subsided. We turn around and begin the descent, we are the first ones to head down, and we have to cut switchbacks on crappy rime ice so that we can access the trail in between groups heading up. We finally get down to the cleaver and begin the descent. The other members decide that we descend another way than we came up, not too happy with this we head down the chossy pile of junk. We get lost several times, but find wands all over the place. It is real hot now so we were all a little cranky. We finally get off the cleaver and back on the Ingraham Glacier. We get back to Ingraham Flats and collapse for a few minutes. We head towards Cathedral Gap and traverse the Cowlitz back top Muir. We arrive at our camp at exactly 12 noon, 11.5 hours muir to muir. We rest for about 1/2 hour and pack up our camp and head down from Muir, getting a few glissades here and there we get back to the cars around 4pm. One small crevasse on the Muir snowfield at 9200 feet

    Eight Mile Rock: "Doin the Dishes"

    in Spray

    Posted

    While in the icicle today I got to watch this guy climb "Doin the Dishes 5.11D" at 8 mile rock.

     

    It is an awfully thin climb, and Kramar says, "Many try this technical tweaker, but few suceed"

     

    Whenever at 8 mile I always wished to see someone climb it, so it was like.......cool and stuff.

     

    -

    K-2 Attempt

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    August 8, 2002

     

    Hi Everyone,

     

    We are back down safely at base camp after an unsuccessful attempt on the

    summit of K2. On August 2 under clear skies we climbed to 6400 meters on

    the south face of K2. We found the snow conditions good with firm to knee

    deep snow. We found our stash of gear buried under a thick layer of ice and

    it took us a couple hours to recover our gear. The next day we climbed with

    heavy packs a delicate corniced snow and rock ridge. It took several hours.

    Due to the lateness of the day and the snow conditions we decided to camp at

    6700 meters. Early morning on August 4, we traversed under a giant hanging

    serac. We were exposed to icefall for about 30 minutes before climbing

    slopes under the SSE ridge to gain the Cesen route (SSE Spur). The weather

    to the south looked bad with dark clouds forming over Chogolisa. We had a

    difficult time finding our way to the ridge and were moving slowly. With

    high winds coming off the summit and the uncertain weather we decided to

    turn around. We descended to the site of our 6700 meter camp. Due to poor

    snow conditions we decided to spend the night at here. On August 6, we

    descended to base camp. Our cook met us at the bottom with cold drinks and

    a warm greeting. We heard that the Mexican-Spanish team also came down on

    the 6th due to weather after making a carry to their 6900 meter camp.

     

    The weather fooled us, because the last two days it has been beautiful. We

    can't speculate on how high we would of climbed to if we would of continued.

    Unfortunately we will not have an opportunity for another try.

     

    We had lunch yesterday with the Japanese expedition. Wonderful folks with

    much climbing experience. Last night the Mexican - Spanish invited us for

    dinner. They plan to continue to climb on the SSE spur.

     

    We enjoyed our climbs on K2 and Broad Peak this season. We got a lot of

    climbing in with only a few additional rest days. We can't understand why

    everyone left base camp so early this season. Climbing in the Karakorum one

    must be patience and sometimes one must wait out the weather to be

    successful. The weather in August is looking good so far. We wish we could

    stay longer, but our porters are expected on the 9th of August.

     

    We look forward to our next climbing objective. There so many mountains to

    climb and many without permits or LOs to deal with.

     

    Christine

    Vesper Peak

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    quote:
    Is there a hut to smoke in on Vesper?
    [big Grin][big Grin]
    [/QB]

    C'mon Greg, you've been up there before!

    Remember when you were up there with that cougar last month? You must have been really lonely that week or not getting any because the cougar seemed to like it

     

    [ 08-05-2002, 12:17 PM: Message edited by: scot'teryx ]

    Vesper Peak

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    noticed lots of people hauling gear up to do the north face route, but not understandable as it was wet the whole day.

     

    We actually wound up bouldering down in the Weden Basin where Devin did a FA of "Wedenization" :: V0 [Razz]

     

    Cool problems all over that basin, I really want to make sure to get up there on a dry day to do the NF route, and then play on the boulders on the way down

    Three Fingers Access

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Posted on the wta.org site:::

     

    Aug 03, 2002 Three Fingers #641

    Well, this is my second attempt to do Three Fingers. It's only been one month and I haven't come to my senses yet. This time my two sons and I decided we would go light and mountain bike the rode past the washout, and trail run it up to Goat Flats and knock that thing out. Crossing the road #41 washout was easy, even with mtn bikes - then the steady grind (10.3miles/2hrs) to the standard Goat Flats trail head. The thought of biking the trail crossed our mind and only lasted 200yds. That trail is the worst shape I have ever seen it - really needs work. Not only the standard root issue, but lots of windfall and winter erosion. So after parking the bikes we slogged up to the flats only losing the trail once on snow just before Saddle Lake. The Goat Flats were as beautiful as ever, and we could see the Three Fingers lookout - but could not get to it. With the heavy snow year, the glacier and snow have blocked the climbers path and it is very treachous. We couldn't even make Tin Can Gap, it would have taken some pickets and rope to make me feel better about it. Anyways, another failed attempt - and if they don't fix that road for a year or so, things will only get worse on that trail. Really to bad as it is an awesome place.

    What makes an “experienced” climber?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    All they have to know is enough that will get them into trouble. I think the media sometimes goes by what the parents say or friends, like; "Yeah they are experienced" and the media doesn't put down what else they say like ;"They go up Mt Pilchuck almost once a month!"

     

    I'm just gapping [sleep] out at work

    Vesper Peak Access??

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    7/2/02

    The trail is snow free up to Weden Basin, then it is snow all the way to the base of headlee

    pass, then dirt 3/4 of the way up to the pass.

     

    004.jpg

     

    There has been some serious avalanche action up there this year, as the snow you walk on in the basin is covered with tree debris

     

    http://www.nwog.org/images/headleepass070202/008.jpg[img/]

     

    Good snow all the way up to where the snow ends and the where the samll moat is

     

    012.jpg

     

    It is just a short scramble up 3rd class dirt and heather with a little bit of exposure, and for some reason I could not find the sign at the top of the pass this time. Our dog would not get off the snow and jump the moat and do the dirt scramble

     

    019.jpg

     

    So we had to stay at the pass and have lunch and then return down the pass, but got a nice view of Vesper on a perfect day

     

    013.jpg

     

    The downclimb was alot of fun [Eek!]

    018.jpg

     

    The traverse after headlee pass was still all snow, but could not tell if it was posthole hell or not on that talus slope or not.

     

    Have fun, let me know how it goes

    Are you going to do the north face?

    Found! Scot'teryx' Montana Cousin!

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Greg W:

    Originally posted by texplorer:

    [qb]Yea, GregW and I just got hammered again before a big climb this weekend. We smoked out at about 10, 11, and 12 thousand feet both on the way up and down. Good thing were aren't one of those NERDS like this guy and that Scoteryx dude. Oh, can I get a shout out for some HORSECOCK! Love Texy

    Has the major bong rippage affected your English?

    quote:
    Good thing were aren't one of those NERDS like this guy and that Scoteryx dude.

    I'm a nerd huh?

    Go back to school you crack pipe loser

    86ed

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Son of Caveman:

    scot'assholeia

    WOW! That's freakin creative "Son of...."

    I got nothing [Mad]

    86ed

    in Spray

    Posted

    So you guys can dish it out but you can't take it?

    I make one remark that was in real poor taste (like no one else has ever done that around here)

     

    I guess that when I decided that I needed to come up with something harsh to a reply from a a seious post that I made, all I got was shitballs.

     

    I told myself, "What would most of the morons on this site say?"

     

    Goes to show what kind of losers and what morals most of you have around here.

     

    If you must kick me off then go for it, I could live on in my gaper world. Most of the replies I get from the usual posters are all crap anyhow.

     

    I HIKED MT SI IN MY PLASTICS

    Bolt Clipping

    in Spray

    Posted

    "Did you notice that the bolts were gone also, or just the hangers? If I had glued the hangers back onto the rock sans bolts would you have merrily clipped them?"

     

    There were 2 bolts that still were sticking out of the rock that had no hangers. I guess a lemming tried to pull the bolts out.

     

    Your kid got tired?

    What a freakin wussie - maybe he was bleeding from the crotch as well, must have been time to change his panties. [Razz]

     

    MITCH MERRIMAN IS A LEMMING

    Bolt Clipping

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Dave Schuldt:

    Scott- you can only begin to understand when you have smoked enough pot, full understand will come when you drop acid.

    I have done my share for sure!

    Dropping 10 sugar cubes with a guy named "Grateful Ted" on Haight street in 91 should count for something right?

     

    "Never drop anything less than a 10 strip"

    Bolt Clipping

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Wrong wrong wrong.

     

    I'm using the bolt hangers for a new smoking device that I hope to have perfected by next ski season. I'm going to test it at the Muir hut. Ya want to come Scott?

    I'm so there!

    How does this smoking hanger device work?

     

    [ 07-01-2002, 09:52 PM: Message edited by: scot'teryx ]

    Bolt Clipping

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by AlpineK:

    [QB]Ha ha ha Scotty you uptight bastard. I just wanted to let you know it was me who took those hangers off the bolts you described.

    QB]

    I knew it was you, I was guessing you needed those hangers to bolt your favorite route at Bruce's Boulder, since that 5.0 crack needs some sort of pro

    Bolt Clipping

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Relax, you're too young to be a crusty, intolerant prick (I checked). Have one
    [big Drink]
    and chill. Greg W

    Maybe I am young, but crusty?

    Very tolerant........shit - I still post here don't I?

     

    Always knowing that a serious question will become a thread of past post resurecctions (sp?)

     

    .............and I gape on

    Bolt Clipping

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Greg W:

    Scot'BrandNameHere:

     

    I hate to resurrect your claim to fame thread (not really), but if you're boasting about dropping acid why would you give a shit about some dudes toking up in the Muir Hut? Sounds kind of stupid to this gaper.

     

    Greg W

    Because I grew up

    Bolt Clipping

    in Spray

    Posted

    Just a quick question:

    After just finally getting into trad (way too late), I did my first trad lead this weekend at Clamshell Cave, and once I got to the top I noticed that the hangers were missing off of the bolts. What is that all about?

     

    I understand the clipping of bolts by trad climbers, especially after a climb that was meant to be trad, was turned into a sport route.

     

    i.e. - Little Bridge Creek Rock "Arete" 5.8

    Was recently bolted this winter (I was told) because gear looks difficult on that side of the face, and I loved that climb as a sport route, but we went back there this weekend, and all but 2 of the top hangers are gone - and the anchor hangers were in place. It makes sense to me if the original setter thought it was trad, then that's cool, but why leave the top 2 hangers?

     

    So with that info, why were the hangers missing from the bolts at the top of the 5.7 crack at clamshell? The 2 hangers at the top of the climb were still there as there is no gear placements in that thin section.

     

    Any info on this topic to help me better understand would be appreciated

    Terima Kasih

    Ingraham Direct still in?

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    just curious as the last update on the rainier site is dated the 19th, and I heard from someone the other day that it was getting real thin up there.

     

    gotta get up there and toke out on the summit for all the gapers here on the board [Roll Eyes]

     

    thanks for any info

    FS: Sierra Designs Women's Genesis 3.0 Pant

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    Women's Genesis 3.0 Pant

    Category: Wind & Rain Shells, SnowSports, Mountaineering

    Size: S

    Sugg. Retail: $239

     

    Description:

    This unique pant combines 3-ply waterproof/breathable ripstop and stretch fabrics in a full side-zip construction that is perfect for skiing, snowboarding and mountaineering.

     

    Features:

    3-layer Genesis 3.0 waterproof/breathable fabric with fully-taped construction for waterproofness

    Fully-taped seams for waterproofness

    Full-length 2-way side zippers with storm flaps

    Scuff guard at inside ankle for abrasion resistance

    Cargo thigh pocket with Velcro® flap

    High-cut elastic back for comfort and maximum coverage

    D-ring at waistband

     

    Asking $110, used about 3 times.

     

    More info: http://www.sierradesigns.com/cgi-bin/driver.pl?style=442&conf=clothing_show_flat_w&sex =W

    442c.jpg

     

    [ 06-14-2002, 10:57 AM: Message edited by: scot'teryx ]

×
×
  • Create New...