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scot'teryx

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Posts posted by scot'teryx

    Who's going to Cascade Crags on Sunday?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    I take it this isnt real ice people will be climbing (except for TTT)? Is it styrofoam? (damn! That word looks funny....styrafoam, stirofoam, foam, fome.....
    [Razz]
    )

    It is styrafoam (sp?)

    It's pretty cool, and there are mixed routes, and they just installed a cool new large icicle feature for the first roof. Check out someday

     

    I'll see you on sunday lawgoddess!

     

    [Cool]

    Alpine buddy of the week

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    I heard that Scot'etzl sold his Mt. Si cougar story to Paramount for Vertical Limit 2!

    I did!

    Made a quick $11, wait until you see the scene where I jump off the summit lookout bench and land on the dirt with 2 tools in my hand. The altitude does not affect me!

    Instead of Nito I have nitrous and fill up balloons for everyone who makes the lowest summit in Washington!

     

    [MR T]

    Snow Creek vs Lake Colchuck

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    I hate snow lakes trail, you lose an extra 2000 vertical feet or something like that, and you gain that as well going in.

     

    Why not start at colchuck at 3000+ feet instead of 1300' for snow lakes? Aasgard is not that bad, especially now, since the scree will be solid from freezing temps and the runoff on the pass, as last year at this time when i did the one day traverse, it was solid scree that was frozen.

     

    I plan on going up to the upper enchantments this weekend and I amgoing asskicker pass for sure.

    TR: Prusik Peak WR

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by texplorer:

    Greg Crouch puts a pretty picture on the last page of the new rock and ice and now even boulderers wil be hikin pads up there.
    [Wazzup]

    There seemed to be so many boulder problems up there on some of those boulders just right off the trails, I'd wouldnt be surprised if there were just a ton of classic problems up there.

     

    Wont catch me hauling anything less than I have to up that evil snow creek trail

     

    But, the boulders at the bottom of Aasgard Pass have some potential eh?

     

    Thanks for the biner again Tex!

    my friend appreciates it

     

    watch out for cougars smokin in the hut!

    TR: Prusik Peak WR

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    quote:
    Are you referring to the "first pitch" If so, everyone free'd it, though it was a little tricky with a rope in one hand.

    Not the first pitch, plus we took the right side version of that pitch that gained the ridgeline below the 5.7 slab pitch. We were able to complete the climb in 3 pitches. We did not take the direct 5.8 leg eating crack to the summit as I watched someone in front of us do it and it looked totally awkward. The 5.4 chimney that was around the corner on the top was easy but not too exposed, only had to put in 2 pieces on that last pitch, it was just too much fun. We started that pitch in the hand crack that had the blue runner in it.

    Muzak

    in Spray

    Posted

    O.A.R. - anything (their coming soon ya know)

    Dirty Vegas

    Foo Fighters

    Modest Mouse "The Lonesome Crowded West"

    Godsmack

    Linkin Park "Re Animation"

    Incubus "Make Yourself"

    Rage ATM

    Black Uhuru

    Vivaldi - assorted concertos

    Ottmar Liebert - assorted

    Rob Zombie

    Revolting Cocks

    Ministry (The Mind is a terrible thing to Taste"

    TR: Prusik Peak WR

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by fern:

    thanks for the TR Scott. I think it's the first one anyone has posted here for that route and answered some questions I had. I like the photos.

    I plan on getting a good tr up on my site soon as I can, as other tr's are kind of vague, but Nelson's book is the best, but as much as I thought having beta for the route was necessary, it isn't. You just climb the ridge and that's it. Variations are there, and there was one crack i really wanted to do but it looked 10a or something. Does anyone know?

     

    Its on the last pitch below the 5.6 flake pitch, and is on the south side, total handcrack in a dihedral with little feet it looked like, and it gains the ledge below the summit.

    TR: Prusik Peak WR

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Dru:

    I thought you downclimbed N side, what is rappel route, optional or what?

     

    To keep with cc.com tradition I will ask Scotty if he saw any cougars up there?????
    [laf]

    Downclimbing the North Side would suck, and we had to do that inbetween one rap station but that was it. There were a few goat trails but I think they were for goats only [Razz]

     

    No Tigers, and no mountain goats as well, I have still never seen a mountain goat [Confused]

    TR: Prusik Peak WR

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Prusik Peak

    West Ridge

    (II 5.7)

     

    Left Snow Lakes TH at 1130am on Saturday morning heading up to Upper Snow Lakes for our camp. Arrived around 4pm and found a nice spot on the beach that was nice and soft on the sand. The weather was nice, but once the sun went down it got cold fast, especially being right next to the lake.

     

    -

     

    We awoke at 5am on Sunday morning and headed up to the Lower Enchantments, once we reached Lake Viviane,

     

    -

     

    we followed the climbers trail heading north (right) side of the lake, and then up and to the left of Prusik Peak's South Face. We reached Prusik Pass after some scrambling, and then at the last minute some other climbers ran past us to get on the route first, not sure what the hurry was. A very nice vista of the enchantments from here

     

    -

     

    Prusik Pass was very windy with gusts up to 30mph or so, so we found a small bench below the pass out of the wind and got ready to go. We climbed some class 3 ledges up to the base of the climb where the other group was still at (party of 3).

    From this point on I had no camera as it fell out of the case somewhere later to be recovered at the base of the climb.

     

    I started a variation of the 1st 5.6 pitch, and started right and made my way up some lichen slabs to a 5.7 move that eventually made it up to the belay station.

     

    From here Sergio took the next pitch and we started the famous "5.7 unprotectable exposed slab". There was a fixed piton at the base above the belay, but nothing until 10 feet of slab of climbing was accomplished, and then Sergio plugged in a small cam on a flake and continued the climbing on a narrow and exposed ridgeline. The wind was heinous, blowing me back and forth, unable to hear him even with a radio, and rope drag was so bad that communicating via rope was difficult.

     

    I followed and met him at the next belay. I started the next pitch up a 5.6 corner, gained a ledge, hit the 5.6 flake which eventually led to the 5.5 chimney on the s. face of the summit. The 5.8 chimney was tempting, but not leading more than (2) 5.8 trad leads I decided to go the easy way up. After inching up I gained the summit and belayed Sergio up with some bad rope drag.

     

    John & Craig were following us on another rope and had a few problems of their own as well, but we all made the summit by 1130am.

     

    -

     

    The rappel route is on the North Side and is about 4-5 single rope rappels, with some rap stations not easily seen from the 2nd and 3rd rap stations. After the rappeling we went back to Prusik Pass and got all of our gear. We downclimbed towards Prusik Pass proper, and headed towards Gnome Tarn for some classic pictures of Little A

     

    -

     

    and Prusik

     

    -

     

    and then down to Lake Viviane and went around the south portion of the lake which forced up to do some low 5th class climbing on a short 20 foot ledge to gain a ridge to get us back on trail again. The way out was long and tiring, especially after packing up camp and hiking out the 7 miles with full packs on, and a small portion of it at night. A long weekend, but an awesome alpine summit on a beautiful day in the most incredible area in Washington

    Honorary KTK members.

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    that has got to be one of the worst websites I have ever seen in my life.

    It's horrid!

    That's what you get when you build a website with MS Office!

     

    I wish to get everyone a gift certificate for their products and brownies [Razz]

     

    I used to think this was one of the worst: http://www.myedmonds.com/

     

    [ 10-03-2002, 05:03 PM: Message edited by: scot'teryx ]

    What You Know Now

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Thanks for all that info JayB

    It was some good reading for sure.

     

    Even though I have only been climbing trad for about 4 months now, I have been very obcessive about, and doing as much possible whenever I can. One thing that I can't do, is lead trad like I lead sport, it's just too hard for me - plus I have not taken a fall on my gear yet, so 5.8 is as hard as I will go for now, maybe staying comfortable is not living on the edge, but that's how I play the game for right now.

    Static Point

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Went out to Static Point today for the first time and just wanted to make some corrections that Smoot did not cover in his "Washington Rock" book.

     

    I have not had a chance to look at "Sky Valley Rock" to see their approach directions, but Smoots will get you all messed up.

     

    After driving through about 1 mile of total slide alder car washing up the FR to get to the "wide open parking area", I found out that I need a wax job more than I ever have. There is a huge tree down about 6/10 mile up this road as well, but I was able to get under it in a 4WD with a roof rack.

     

    From there the trail description says to "go to the 1st gully and head up and look for the trail that will miraculously materialize". Well that 1st gully takes you nowhere except to slick boulders and a waterfall. The keyword that was used in the book was that you would be able to see the granite dome above, which we did not, but it was the 1st rock gully, so we proceeded, but the wrong one. We came down and followed the trail for much longer than we thought could possibly be correct, since the book says to follow the trail for .6 mile, and we had been going for quite a bit.

     

    We finally hit the second gully and were able to barely see the granite above us through the trees. So we headed up the gully, full of slick boulders, slippery tree logs and such, and then we came to the base of a slick slab that towered above us - so all we could do was go up the mud/dirt slope of the canyon for about 100 feet to reach the ridgeline. What'dya know, a trail at the top! We were able to follow this trail all the way to Static Point, and it led right ot the base of Online and Right Line.

     

    -

     

    Since another party reached the route literally minutes before us, we had to abandon going up online (III 5.10b) and head up Rightline (II 5.9+) instead

     

    -

     

    yet it was not in Smoots book, and the other party had the Sky Valley Rock book so we were able to check out the topo in their book.

     

    I liked the nostalgic rap ring at the top of the last pitch

     

    -

     

    Remember to bring 2 ropes for the rap down, as we fell 10 feet short of the belay stations even with a 60m rope, that we forgot about. Made it much more interesting though.

     

    In a nutshell, from the parking area, it is a brisk 25 minute hike to the 2nd gully (about 15 small gullies in between), and after the last gully, walk across it and continue on the road for 1/4 block, where a cairn on top of a large pipe mark a trail that follows the gullies right side, something we only took advantage of on the descent.

     

    The hike up this trail is very reminscent of Mailbox Peak, steep, rooted, and a little hard to follow in spots. About 25 minutes to the 1st routes from the 2nd gully. Expect the approach tobe at least 1 hour, instead of the quoted 20 minutes that I have read out there, and that's keeping a 2-3 mph pace.

     

    If you have a car that you actually care about (paintjob at least), bring bikes for the 1 mile of FR that gets you to the trailhead.

     

    Nice runouts up there!

    Hope this helps someone

    [smile]

    Enchantments

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I'll be out there as well with Mr Verdina if the weather is okay. Had a friend up there this weekend and said they only got up the first fifth class pitch as the wind was blowing at about 40mph, and that it was snowing. We'll be camping at Colchuck Lake on Saturday, probably heading up to do the Witches Tower on Saturday afternoon, then doing Prusik early on Sunday morning. Anyone up for climbing in Leavenworth on Fridat afternoon?

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