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mneagle

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About mneagle

  • Birthday 10/07/1970

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  • Occupation
    Pirate Hunter
  • Location
    Fort Collins, CO

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  1. PAO2=(Patm−PH2O)FiO2−PACO2/RQ The alveolar gas equation explains how an altitude tent works. FiO2 is the fraction of inspired oxygen, which is 0.21 (21%) at all altitudes. Patm is the atmospheric pressure. As you go higher Patm is lower, which reduces the partial pressure of oxygen in the alveoli of the lung. You can simulate high altitude by sleeping in a hypobaric chamber that lowers the Patm to simulate high altitude. An altitude tent can’t change the Patm like a hypobaric chamber can, but it can create the same partial pressure in the alveoli, by reducing FiO2. The math certainly works, but I question the utility of sleeping in an altitude tent for eight hours and then spending the next 16 hours at sea level. It’s hard for me to imagine that this would really make much of a difference. Fortunately, I now live at 5000 feet in Colorado and have a cabin at 8500 feet where I ski and bike every weekend. The best way to acclimatize is just to move here! Andy, let me know if you want to come out and get some turns in at Vail. I’m still on tele’s.
  2. Very nice. It’s been a long time since I was up there. Beautiful terrain. We did Eldo and Inspiration on the same trip but skipped over the Needle. I’ll have to get back there sometime.
  3. Thanks for the heads up. Watched it tonight. Even when you know the ending, it's still brutal.
  4. Very cool. I haven't lived in Washington for over 20 years and about 75% of my climbing memories and stories of PNW climbing involve long and/or suffer-fest approaches.
  5. I remember watching it on TV in 1980 when I was 10 years old. My first exposure to climbing things other than trees. High lights I recall: Dropped backpack containing all climbing gear. Long fall traps man in rock pocket, from which he could not be retrieved until he was frozen solid. A person can pull a helicopter into a mountain with a sling rather than get pulled off the ledge.
  6. I'm a little too busy to worry about climbing right now. I wonder if they designed the PAPR hood around the Ecrin Roc. They sure fit the same. Stay safe and practice social distancing.
  7. Back in the day, this is the type of post that would reach classic status.
  8. Go to the trip report section and search for TR’s from “off_the_hook” (I think his real name is Leor). He did some phenomenal link-ups in superhuman short amounts of time. Most anything he did is likely worth repeating but it might take you 4 days rather than 22 hours.
  9. I just bumped the Nodder thread. That should make you happy.
  10. Thanks to the Urban Dictionary, I think I might have a clue about what this thread was about. But which of the 9 definitions is the true nodder? This may require meditation https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.urbandictionary.com/define.php%3fterm=nodder&amp=true
  11. Back in the early 2000’s, I was posting a lot because I was climbing a lot and wanted to inspire and inform others. I haven’t done much climbing over the last few years but what I have done I posted about. Coming back to cc.com now and seeing the dramatic fall in apparent traffic is a big bummer for me, as my impression is that it is due to a lack of enthusiasm from the next generation. Are the crags as empty as the forums? I’ve heard millennial are buying less activity specific gear and pursuing less adventure. If so, hopefully it is only a temporary reaction from this generation not wanting to be like their parents and climbing/adventure will be revisited in the future. For those carrying the torch here, I salute you. Few things in life are better than a bivy on the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak.
  12. You can get it for $12.99 but they let you watch the best scene for free, as the trailer. http://raremovies.biz/inc/sdetail/16839
  13. We did Hannegan Pass to Easy Ridge. My partner had this great idea to skip the show mperfect impasse by taking a near vertical bushwhack route straight up to the ridge. Not recommended.
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