goatboy

Best wishes to the recovering parties. See new thread for questions about accident analysis.

Thanks for the report -- very interesting choice! These are the first pictures of some of these formations I've seen from people climbing them maybe ever. Would you do it again?

Yes, FLING WIDE THE MEAT CURTAINS!

Exactly....Red Rocks comes to mind as well: lots of rope-snagging things there, so quicker to do lots of short rappels rather than risk getting ropes hung up on longer ones.

Looks more like the rare "Meat Muffin" to me....with or without the halo!

Where are the blue windpants?

I think it depends. Sometimes, three people can carry two ropes and rack faster than two people would....and if you belay both seconds with a Reverso, you can move about as fast as a party of two at times....plus, descents can be faster with three if you send the first rappeler with the rope to rig the next rappel....so I'm playing devil's advocate about the generalization that three is categorically slower.

This was an interesting comment to me. I'm curious where you draw the line? What "Region" would you say Forbidden is in if not Cascade Pass? Is Boston Basin it's own "Region?"

I've heard of several things which are good to do in theory, but hard in a remote area (i.e. icing, keeping it below the heart, keeping the victims pulse low, etc). Hard to do those things walking out from the Royal Columns though, I reckon! Those extractor kits aren't really recommended as worth the time they take....better to just go to the hospital! SIDE NOTE: Interestingly, I found out that despite the high volume of snakes in the Methow area, the closest snakebite anti-venin is all the way down in Wenatchee....doctors can't really afford to keep the stuff around because its expensive and expires quickly.... anyone know more about the details on that?

No worries -- good luck and let us know what you discover about the crossing!

The Methow River is at floodstage and folks who reconned Early Winter Creek about 10 days ago (in the afternoon) said it was very high....not sure about conditions TODAY.

I had a small snake tumble into my hands while I was soloing in Virginia once -- I have a thing about snkaes! I also encountered a king snake writhing around inside a finger crack which my wife led down at Granite Mtn in Arizona, as I was following the pitch... Did the guy fall once bitten, or did he somehow choose to hang on?

I would suggest going all the way to Schurman the first day, then spending a FULL DAY there (day 2) before heading out that night late to summit in the AM on day 3. This maximizes the acclimitazing at 10,000 ft and still gives you a rest day up high. That's what I'd do if I were doing this route.

Nice work! Ever climb "This House of Sky" in the Ghost? This one picture reminds me a bit of that climb....long, rambling, low angle fun in a narrow rock couloir....though I imagine the route overall isn't really like THOS at all....THOS also ends with a short steep ice pitch like Stettner Couloir seems to, however....

How long would you say this traverse would take an average party to do?

Where are the pictures???

Did any of you folks summit (via the NE Ridge or otherwise)? If so, how did you descend?

Your sarcasm is most insightful and interesting, but what about my points do you disagree with, Llama? I'm more interested in the topic of this thread than anonymous insults from Llamas.. Can't goats and Llamas co-exist???

So, the fact that you "heard" it was climbed before consitutes a "history" of previous ascents? "Celebrities" should be held to a high standard because of their visibility. Potter apparently wants the benefits that come with being a sponsored climber, but chooses to disdain the responsibility that this position carries with it. Skoog's point about "optics" is the key one in this case, to me, regardless of who might have heard what about previous ascents.... Goatboy says to this selfish stunt and it's impact...

Way to go do your best up there, despite disparaging comments from the internet peanut gallery! Rapping off stacked nuts and knifeblades sounds "compelling." Here's Graybeard as of yesterday: Full-size image available in my gallery: LINK

Here are a few images from SEWS showing current conditions: SEWS from Spire Gully (South Arete is left skyline) Blue Lake Peak with sizeable cornice -- and a skier TeeWa with Blue Lake Peak behind her: Climbing SEWS SW Couloir -- foreshortened angle makes it look steep! But it isn't... SEWS Cornice 2006 version:

Fixed anchors are slings around trees....There are three, taking you to the bottom of the steeper (upper) couloir via three 60-M rappels. One could easily downclimb the couloir, too, should one want to....

Just climbed this route on Friday 5/5/06. Snow conditions were pretty much as depicted in the photo above -- firm and full coverage. The couloir seems to be no more than 40-45 degrees steep at most. Excellent cramponning and fixed anchors in the couloir for descent, should you choose to do it that way... Descending the South Arete would be a pretty snowy endeavor right now! So we descended the SW couloir. Also, the cornice depicted in the old photo above which overhangs the East face is as big as I've ever seen it! Plus, the cornice on Blue Lake Peak across the way is also bigger than I've ever seen it. Will post some photos later. I recommend approaching via the hairpin ("Spire Gully") as you can glissade all the way back to your vehicle... Fun route, very straightforward conditions right now.

For those of you who may be unsure what "mammies" are, do some homework here: More info available here: Gallery for mammies

So that was you guys who threw down in the moat by the rock -- it must have been your sleepy buddy who I said hello to as we tromped by, then? Sorry we missed you, it would have been good to re-connect.