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I thought that story was hilarious, the harlequin romance story written for the anti-social climber male. A little bit of fantasy about a guy who had all the same bad habits as YOU, yet still this woman was willing to drive all the way down from Canada to climb and fuck for a whole week. No matter how disgusting you got, she'd be back for more, after just thinking about your potent B.O.! And the best part....then she leaves after he's had his fill. And BTW, I'll agree with specialEd that the pot piece was totally worthless. Did you guys notice our own Geordie got half a page?

I was on my way to a Mountie climb! Either Dome peak or Whitehorse.

Holy shit! Maybe someone did chop it. The slings you found might've been the choppers' rap slings. So did you get to the base or not? Looking at your picture again, I am 99% sure it was taken from a point below the previously established route start. So were exactly did you find the crowbars? That would be funny if choppers went up there but couldn't find the route .

I'd say more like the "Wonder Bread" of climbing, the parallel being the name vastly overstating the quality. It ain't no N Butt of Fury. It's just a long, easy bolted climb with a pinch of unnecessary danger left in.

You didn't go far enough up the trail. The trail jogs over to the creek at one point probably to give you a glance at the rock. That's probably where you started. At that point the trail jogs back up right and ascends another couple hundred feet (please don't take my "couple hundred feet" literally), then deposits you right at the base (a small pensinsula of rock that juts out below the route). I think Alex's second guess is probably correct. There's no way four (non-blind) people could have scrambled a couple hundred feet up the slabs at the base of the route and not found a single bolt. Here's a picture from the base of the route on a real smoggy day. The first bolt or two are probably just out of the frame lower right. I think you could probably have fun on this route if you don't have a big stick up your ass. Then again you could also get lost or benighted or hit by rockfall or both! Bring a helmet.

Headed out to Static Point with Otto yesterday. Wet wet road on the way in and lots of snow at the entrance station gave us pause, but we continued, chopped some brush on the way in, and found dry rock. No snow besides very isolated patches on the way in (probably changed today!). We climbed "Besides Fudd", a new climb for me out there. It's in Sky Valley Rock but not in any of the Smoot books. The climb starts in a beautiful deep dihedral, shiny white and clean, just out right from Fuddhat. There's two bolts (and basically nothing else) on the that pitch. No more bolts, except for the belay anchors, for the rest of the climb. Fun 5.8/9, but a bit heady, doing some long runouts between positive holds. Would be a great romp if you "warmed up" on some 5.10 slab beforehand. We were able to get a look at "Sparks" (see hanman post above). It looked fun. Probably a bit less intimidating than "besides". Could be wrong though. Followed that up with Kill Da Wabbit. Very sweet climb. Then rapped over to The Cube and down Online. All rap stations we traversed other than the Online ones are sling setups with seriously manky webbing. So if you're headed out that way, bring a knife and some replacement tat.

I liked the part where they stated that they checked all employees at the Wendy's to see if they had all 10 fingers! CSI in real life !!!

I wonder if disgruntled posters at that site call the moderators Nazi's?

Indeed! That was just a reconnaissance! I have reconnoiterred Whitehorse over five trips so far.

re: foil lining on sleeping pads It would be like those little slime-pads attached to razor cartridges. They help out a bit, but they're only good for the first application since they wear off right away. Oh, and with respect to compactibility, I've got this really old beat-up 3/4 length ridge rest. It folds up just fine for putting inside my pack. Works well for protecting my back from those evil sharp cams and such. Don't know about it's r-value, but, for me, it r enough .

For the same reason there are private cars on public roads

This acquisition would afffect Trundle Dome as well as the areas/climbs that Matt mentioned above. Here is a pic of BobbyPeru on the supercool "Piller de Cowboy Boot" on Trundle Dome. Note the sweet handcrack on the right side of the boot: Sent mine in! C'mon, let's keep up the momentum!

What is so irrelevant about it? The only real reason I can fathom as to why this should be a big govt. priority (Senate committee hearings !!!) is because of the possible "popular athletes influencing kids to do stupid things to their bodies" concerns. That, of course, has direct parallels to dope and "cane". I assume the main reason many of you are all upset about this is because it is "cheating". Or it makes it more difficult for atheletes to compete at the highest level without trashing their bodies. Should that really be a big senate priority? This problem is the athletes' problem. Let them take care of it. Should our government be spending their time (our money) holding hearings over what rules should be instituted in playing a game? Do you think it is our government's mandate to legislate how much of a risk one takes to excel in a certain sport? If so, perhaps football shouldn't even be allowed, or at least remove the punt return play and that dangerous tackling ! How about boxing? How about .... climbing!!!! Perhaps we need a Senate committee to investigate these climbers who run it out far too much in order to get big sponsorships! Soloing needs to be outlawed because it is unfair to those unwilling to make some moves 15 feet above their last piece of pro. Am I not getting something here? What exactly is the big problem with professional athletes using steroids? Talk a bout a nanny state .

I think it's just 2:1 (minus the friction on the biner) CBS. Note that the belay device is locked off.

Not that it makes much difference, but that mantle move is not Index 10c. You're holding onto a jug of a ledge, mantle up and quick slap a higher jug, then easily pull onto the ledge. It's more like 9+ or 10a at most. Of course, I've only climbed it by accessing via Godzilla. It could be 10c from City Park if the transition into it is difficult

Great pictures! Thanks. Looks like a good time.

Petzl's version They suggest using an "Italian Hitch" (Munter?) to belay when you release the brake biner.

pigheads! pigheads! EVERYWHERE!!!!

I thought the pig was on Model Worker, and thus perhaps not directly applicable to this thread.

David Gunstone put up Heaven's Gate. Mike, your gear rec is a bit confusing. Since a single 70m will suffice, I assume two 50's would work wouldn't they? Another cool Index picture from Colt45's webpage

The Tooth is the best!

I think Cornucopia has just three pitches (according to the official topo ) . Were there any signs of travel (bolts) above you?

That does sorta look like you climbed Cornucopia on your "Big Tree Pitch 3". Nice pitch huh? Here's a pic from the belay at the top. Look familiar?