chucK

that's what happens when Big Bubba's toting around your golf club.

How about if I led Chossmaster? Isn't that free-standing pillar like 5.7 (and a bolt-free lead) if you chimney up between it and the wall? Chuck

Bronco, Is that the voice of experience or are you just making shit up?

quote: Originally posted by brody0: if anyone has anything to say other than attacks, please post. maybe a solution, like an ongoing chatroom. I think the solution is to realize that this site is what it is. It is not the ideal website that exists only in your head. Your ongoing chatroom idea is perhaps the solution. You need to realize that CC.com is that chatroom. To get your ideal website, I would suggest creating one of your own. That might work. It might not. I somehow think that the creators of this site did not envision the current state of affairs as their goal when they first started out. FWIW, I was initially disappointed with the "chatroom" nature of this site. But I got over it. Obviously, bitching to people that don't owe you squatis not going to change anything. Paradoxically, it will only add to the clutter of the board with many retorts replete with little round guys showing you their asses. Your vote has been recorded. Please move on.

Zeno, Thanks for the great legal-stuff link. Required reading! Charlie, If you do go to the extra trouble of actually making the bastards take you to trial I'll chip in $10 for gas/fine money. Chuck

quote: Originally posted by JayB: That's a risk I'm willing to take in order to insure that whoever ripped them off in the first place does not succeed in his ambitions to render these routes unclimbable - if that was in fact his intention. They are not unclimbable now. They're just not leadable. Actually, some are probably still leadable too, just not as safely.

Well if decking was a possibility then it was either not a sport climb or a poorly bolted one. Placing the second bolt too high seems like a far too common an error. It's like the Mountaineers have been out putting up sport climbs or something . How much brains does it take to figure out that if the second bolt is twice as far from the ground as the first, then someone will deck if they blow it near the second clip? Out at Vantage there's a bunch of climbs that have all the upper bolts close enough to Z-clip, while the bottom two are far enough apart to create a decking situation. Dumb. Anyway, sorry to hear about your ankles. Too bad about the doc bungling it too! There's another place (other than sport climbing) where people have too much of a sense of security, the hospital!

Did your belayer take in rope while you were falling? That can cause the falling climber to whip into the wall harder, so usually you don't want to do that. In your case though he/she also had to worry about you decking.

Ahh.. but specialed she clearly specified "no operator error"

Broke both ankles! That sucks. Perhaps your definition of what constitutes a "sport climb" differs from mine. Since you brought it up, maybe you'd be willing to provide further details of your unfortunate mishap. I'm sure there are lots of people here who would love to discuss it to death.

You're welcome

Todd, You can do website-based reading and posting to rec.climbing through Google. Click this link http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&safe=off&group=rec.climbing The post-response is delayed (so no instant gratification like on this site) when using this website instead of a newsreader. Using this website though you can search for a topic, so you could search for past beta on your topic of interest. Chuck

Thank you for your kind comments. You guys are the greatest. If anybody wants to view the page just click on the little home icon above my posts. Or I guess I could just type in the URL right here http://home.attbi.com/~cspieker/ The page hasn't been updated in a while, but if you've never seen it before I guess that's no biggie. Charlie, I did not climb Eichorn Pinnacle. In fact we just climbed Cathedral via the class 4 route. I was in an uncrowded Tuolumne for 3 days with a couple of guys that don't climb. I was going nuts! Much medication was necessary. Chuck

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: What makes you so sure that I am not going to try very hard to do a competent job? 'Cause you wrote this: If not, than they won't...no big deal. I only need twenty people to fill it out in order to fullfil the course requirement,

quote: Originally posted by Lambone:[QB]This isn't a project that is going to save the world, or climbing in the Northwest. [...]Who knows, maybe I'll send the finished product to the access fund or something.QB] Why would the Access Fund be interested in some data that were worthless because the researcher didn't really try very hard to do a competent job?If you just want to fulfill the course requirement why don't you just make up a bunch of answers from phony people? Like I just wrote in another thread. Don't you just hate it when you try to give a serious answer to a question then the asker just blows you off?

Don't you just hate this? Some guy asks a serious question. Then, when you take the time to give a serious answer he pops off and tells you you're wrong and corrects you?

I have suggestion. Always keep in mind that the people answering your questions are getting nothing out of this. They are doing you a favor. Keeping this important thought in mind, you should carefully create your questionnaire so as to be able to adequately research one or two important questions with the MINIMUM incovenience. Your survey posted is too long. Chuck

I think Mattp's hit it right on the head. The Pub Clubs [TM] oughta be planned out over beers . They shouldn't be hashed out over the internet. They oughta be decided each week at the previous Pub Club. Thus, those that go get a say. Those who don't, don't. As for this week, [i ain't goin' but it has nothing to do with the squabbling], I think Dwayner has been requesting a Tacoma Pub Club for like 3 months now, so as one of the Alpine Buddies this week [thank you, thank you very much] I say, go see Dwayner. And you other Tacoma folks squabbling over which establishment are really shooting yourselves in the feet. Have fun. I hope it happens.

Here's my advice: Don't fall. What do you think you're doing? Sport climbing? Fear of falling is good. Just because that gear you placed (while on toprope) then fell on (while on toprope) held, doesn't mean the next piece you place is gonna. What you should instead do is learn to realistically figure out when you can and can't do a move. Use all your toprope practice for that. Then when you get out above the gear focus on the fact that you CAN do the move. Do not focus on the possibility of falling. You're climbing. You shouldn't be practicing falling. You should be practicing ascending to the next placement. Chuck

That sucks dude. Before you just give up your right to trail and make this a very cost-effective tactic (34 cents for $50 return) for those bloodsuckers consider this... How far away is the court before to which you are summoned to appear? If you've got the time you should try fighting it. I don't think they can charge you more for just telling your story before the judge. Were you out actually "recreating" near this trailhead [if indeed you were even parked where they said you were], please think before answering. Perhaps, alternatively, you were out performing a community service by picking up trash or otherwise maintaining the trail. Perhaps you had just stopped to take a leak and didn't actually recreate at all? Perhaps it would be worth a try to see if the statute covers people who park at the only safe place around (out of traffic) but then travel cross-country, not using the trails at all? Charlie, if you've got the time, just think...YOU could be a test case! All the way to the SUUUUPREME COURT baby! Chuck

quote: Originally posted by erik: p.s. i am still an conservative Yeah he is! He refused to have anything to do with that controversial Whipsaw climb! [which still has it's hangers by the way.]

I got a fancy-pants Eddie Bauer pack that I found in a park in a rich-people neighborhood. It was in the vicinity of broken beer bottles and had a bunch of beer spilled in/on it. Probably some rich kid out partying, spilled beer on it then had to leave it there so he/she wouldn't get busted by the P's. Haw Haw! Party down some more dudes.

Anybody up there for driving out there tomorrow, i.e. a day trip? And then, you know, climbing some stuff, and perhaps getting a little bit of life sucked out of us? PM or email Chuck

Dwayner, the facilitator! Thanks for your many amusing trip report/anecdotes. You rule. Chuck

That article talks about 7mm perlon. If you got holes big enough for 7mm then go for the perlon; however, mtnrgr said 5mm cord won't fit .What's up with that? I think those hexes are made for the 5.5mm cord. In any case I don't think sub 5mm perlon would be strong enough. Hexes are cheaper than SLCD's yes. Note that the largest hexes (#9-11) are not much lighter than Friends (see http://home.attbi.com/~cspieker/misc/sizerang.htm ). You save less than an oz on #8 hex vs 2.5 friend. Hexes do seem worth the weight and fiddle factor in places with irregular and pockety cracks like Smith. Once you figure out the length of the cord you want (I'd say about 4' or slightly less per hex) make sure you get different colors for each hex. You'll be happy you did. Oh yeah, another thing. To "fuse" the ends, pull the sheath down around the core and chop off about 1/2-1" of the core, then pull the sheath back over and melt that part. Before the molten goo hardens, shape it into a nice tip for threading. Chuck [ 01-28-2002: Message edited by: chucK ]