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Trip Report: written by Sam Allen While moving off to university I decided to finally complete a write-up of an amazing summer adventure. Homesickness is real and I am so grateful to have grown up in such an incredible state. *Disclaimer: A bit late to the Jabberwocky party, a similar line up the SW spur was completed by David Wood and Eric Koch a few weeks prior. While unknown to us at the time, all credit and the FA of pitches 1, 4, and 7 should be attributed to them.* Now to the story… After his FA’s of Solid Gold and Dragons of Eden, what’s one more slog up Colchuck lake to help finish Wayne’s incredible Enchantments trilogy? The idea began earlier in the summer while suffering through sweaty jams in a Squamish heatwave. Meeting briefly at a crag, he shared a quick photo of the inspiring ridgeline of Jabberwocky tower, stories of solid rock, and a potential line. How could I say anything but yes? SW Ridge Jabberwocky Tower Fast-forward two weeks later and we were on our way up to the lake to check the line out. Equipped with minimal bolting gear and expectations of a quick mission, we flew past the day-hikes and began approaching the climb. Immediately we realized the entire tower is an undertaking way beyond our time-limit. From the lake, 1300 feet of broken enchantments granite is littered with tree ledges, overhangs, chimneys, slabs up to an imposing summit block. “Definitely a sting in the tail,” Wayne remarked. Spotting a hanging forest leading to the SW ridge, we began cutting a pleasant traverse through some small patches of slide alder, giving ground within a few minutes of the hand saw. Jabberwocky Tower blending in beneath CBR After some typical cascade jungle climbing and scree wrestling, we had reached a fairly prominent (SW) ridge. After walking about and pointing at things above our heads, the ridge proper was the obvious starting point. “Imagine if we can stay on the ridge proper!” Wayne casted up the first pitch, chucking pebbles over my head into the lake already hundreds of feet below us. The rock was good! Hand cracks were everywhere promising fun moves and great gear. After some problem-solving and block-wrangling, the pitch was slayed in great form and Wayne brought me up to gear belay. Pitch 2 went down with similar speed and enjoyment with fairly easy climbing leading to a fantastic ledge stance. Pulling the last few moves, I took my first look above the belay and laughed out loud! The rock pulled back into an overhang, cleaved by a perfect crack. Wayne looking up at the start of P1 and the ridgeline As cool as the feature looked, however, it wouldn’t come for free. Loose blocks peeked out above the lip and there was no way of knowing whether a key chockstone would hold any weight. It was already getting late in the afternoon, but the pitch was too tempting and Wayne decided to gear up. Bolting with some fantastic scenery… Wayne launched up the crack in incredible style, maneuvering over microwave blocks right at the physical top-out. My huddled belay offered little protection had he trusted a wrong foot. But by the time he turned the lip and moved out of sight, half-rope was creeping up and the way down was going to be complicated. After leaving some gear and lowering, our first high point was established. Two more raps and we were back at the base, ready for our hike out. Wayne reaching for the top on P2 Time back at the car: 8 PM Hikes commenting on “suspicious rockfall”: 3 Enjoyment of the hike out: 6/10 Trip 2 A few changes were made for the second attempt, the most important being Jenn coming along! The small delay in belaying a team of 3 was worth it ten times over by the rest afforded and shared gear. Two ropes allowed us to pitch out full rope-lengths and retreat, creating efficient and calculated belay stances. The first two pitches of our original attempt were combined, and we were back at the now-called Bandersnatch crack (the true Jabberwocky poem offers endless names). Slightly cleaner this time, the pitch was serious as Wayne boldly locked rattley hands up into the perfect summer sky. The continuation of the pitch turned into a fantastic knife-edge as well, a fun au cheval treat to rest the feet. Jenn cruising above Colchuck Lake P3 was a puzzle, seemingly luring us to a sloping ledge belay underneath the reaching gendarme. New to the whole route-development style of climbing, I was thrilled with the opportunity to chuck spare rocks off into the gully, adding excitement to anyone’s Aasgard Pass day hike. I took the lead for P4, a short step up to the ridge proper and then a traverse to the base of the next tower. Cresting the ridge, I probably spend more time staring back at Stuart than any hand or foothold. Quick belays and we were ready for a late afternoon layback. Myself leading back up to the knife-edge on P4 Wayne resting on some gear to get the excavation psych back! On top of the second gendarme, the sun was beginning to get too close for comfort above the Stuart skyline. To our right, a sheer granite face stretched down to the gully, with a perfect rap tree at the top. After some good luck rituals that the double rap would touch, Wayne descended first off what would be an incredible rappel, overhung and 60m exactly. A long hobble down the gully in climbing shoes led us to our bags and, once again, the amazing hike out. Hikers scared of rockfall: 1 Beta sprayed to anyone with a helmet on: 3 Time back at the car: 11 PM Trip 3 By this time we were determined. I was leaving Washington soon and the memory of the dusty trail and late-night drives back were becoming a little more long-term. This time, we finally dusted off the overnight gear and drove out the day before. Starting at 6 the next day (woken up to minivans of through-hikers…) we beat the heat of the day and were racking up by the time we would have normally started. The first 5 pitches flew by in record time, stopping only to trundle a few huge blocks we had skipped over and taking the time to slot and glue in the crucial chockstone from the first overhanging 10b step. These pitches were already cleaning up nicely and the climbing was smooth and fun as we launched up to the summit tower. Reaching past our previous rappel spot, we anchored in for the final two pitches. Wayne after some tough thin gear A series of clefts, cracks, splits, and ledges, all perfect hand size, made up pitch 6. The movement was incredible and secure, with jams leading everywhere in hands reach. Staying true to the ridge offers increasing views of the Enchantments core and the ant trail leading up. Reaching the belay, however, offered a more imposing mood on the team. Above was another reaching overhanging crack, both longer and wider then the first. The rock was speckled red and orange, and the top was just out of site above. The pitch was the true sting in the tail we had seen from earlier and no easy let-up to the top. Wayne racked up the big gear and took the first steps across to the base… Watching the lead was inspiring. The size in between hands and fists is always a weakness of mine and Wayne made it look easy, bumping cams and reaching high until the top jug. Just like that, he crested the top! After falling off (read: flailing) on the crack, I finally pulled up the last few handholds to the summit block. Continuing on, I pulled a step, walked a few feet, and reached the end! Looking across to CBR and the slopes beyond was a fantastic feeling that definitely fuels my passion for years of Cascade adventure. A quick tree belay and all three of us were on top smiling. Everyone on the top! After installing a rap anchor, we left via the backside and the CBR approach trail, circumnavigating the entire lake in our day. This was way faster and a lovely way to walk down with the evening light. Maybe it was the feeling of accomplishment but I didn’t even mind the dusty trail this time, thoroughly fulfilled and energized from the amazing peaks we spent so much time on. Climbers told to “Get on it!”: 2 Time back at the car: 9 PM, but a quick overnight allowed for a luxurious and slow breakfast stop the next day. Happiness: 11/10 Lastly, I really want to thank Wayne and Jenn for letting me help out with the vision and all the climbing mentorship over the years. I can think of many of my friends who are fueled by the psych and knowledge Wayne brings to the community and hope to one day pass that down again. Climb Notes: We have cleaned the route fairly well of any dangerous blocks and dirty cracks. Lichen is already worn off many holds. We installed around ten bolts, mostly around belay stations, but the route protects very well with gear. For more information visit MP https://www.mountainproject.com/route/126723752/song-of-the-summer

Not much new to say that hasn't been said about this classic route so made two versions. Short version: We ended up doing the left-side variation on the fin, per Blake Herrington's guide. It was a fun long day and a #6 and 70 m were great. Long version: I was intimidated by this route given the large number of reported epics and accidents, but it has been on my list of bigger Washington classic alpine climbs to attempt for a while. But after getting out of shape finishing up grad school while working full time for the past two years, it sat on the shelf. Well after graduating and having a summer returning to alpine shape repeating some familiar classics in the wind river range and washington, I was finally feeling fit and confident once again to give the route a go. Kurt and I briefly joked I'd climb the offwidth if he climbed the final fin/slab pitch. Kurt and I packed more layers, food, and water than we normally would just in case of an epic. But we were feeling good, and set off with our heavy packs at 5:00 am from the trailhead, jaunting past large early morning through hiker groups hoping to peep early season larches. We filtered some water at Colchuck Lake and made it to the base of the climb by 8:00 am. Luckily and sadly the snow and glacier have receded to the point where we could walk straight to the start of the initial scramble. Looking at the tree'd scramble and the OW above: Jolly at the start: Scrambling far left and then then up and right, Kurt set off from the base of pitch 1 at 9:00. The first 4 pitches were pretty straightforward using the beta from mountain project and blake herrington. Leading the offwidth pitch was easier, more secure, and more fun than I anticipated. It helped that I hauled my bag and having the #6 made it stress free. The 4th pitch was also super fun! A short 0.3 finger crack into a wide crack, then a thin step over to wild slabby layback. OW: From there the rock quality and navigation got worse. We looked for a downclimb described in Blake's book and a large ledge in mountain project, but everything looked like it would go. So Kurt ventured off trying to find a way to go and ultimately went up and left until finding the obvious saddle. I think for this section, its easy enough terrain that anything goes and just moving up and left on whatever looks fun and solid is the move. We moved across the saddle and up the large ramp/chimney to just below the twin cracks on the left side of the fin. I couldn't distinguish what cracks were the twin cracks as all the cracks on the left looked shallow and dirty, so ended up going to the high point on the ledge and climbing some 5.6/5.7 crack/face on poor rock to the next ledge, then moving back down and left. Looking down the top-out of what I guessed was the twin cracks was full of lose rock that would have been hard not to tumble, but maybe I am off? Kurt then led the right-facing corner to a ledge then a thin and tricky crack/corner back to the face of the fin, which was awesome and had a hero jug! At this point we had been in the shade most of the day getting blasted by wind. I was up next, but was smoked from carrying a heavy bag on this climb, so through less than honorable intentions I attempted to convince Kurt to stick to our original agreement and lead the final fin pitch. He was reluctant at first, but I finally wore him down with a bonus fruit leather offering. I followed and it reminded me of the no hands traverse pitch of thin air at Cathedral Ledge, but doubled! However, when I got to the belay, Kurt was less stoked on it from the less than stellar rock we were promised and not having the 4 to protect the final section of no hands traverse (he used it in the anchor). Kurt questing into the fin: Classic fin shot: Kurt on top of the fin: We finished by traversing over and then stupidly heading up on the south side of the ridge via the triple couloirs bowling alley. It took 40 minutes to move 60 m of 5.0 because the rock quality was so atrociously bad. Every other step and every other hold would pop off or crumble... we should have stayed on the north side climbing the ridge proper. We made it to the summit at 6 pm and after a quick selfie, we did 4 rappels off the back side to make our way down Asgard in the dark. This was the second time I descended Aasgard in the dark this season and I am still surprised by how much longer and worse it feels hiking Colchuck/Aasgard out in the dark than up in the dark! We made it to the car by 11 pm for a solid 18 hour day, so were feeling stoked to have been quicker than 20 hours! Though the last 30 minutes out I was starting to feel a bit loopy either from the exhaustion or caffeine pills, which was new... Overall I thought this was a fun route with some less than classic rock quality. It's a long day for sure, but less challenging than I anticipated (or maybe I'm getting better?). It's less travelled so it was harder to read the route and its lose, so slower going. I think the key for routefinding is to avoid overthinking in the middle-section and just keep moving up and left. It felt somewhat similar to the lower half of the direct north ridge of Stuart in nature, but with less solid rock (a few key pitches, but otherwise make your own way). Gear A 70 m and a #6 was clutch! We would have ran out of rope on the last fin pitch with a 60 m. I also tried out a new to me mountain hardwear scrambler 35L for the first time. It's a bit stiffer than I usually like to climb with, but performed great! The double handles on top were awesome for hauling. The normal sized brain was great and could be easily folded into the main pouch. The many strap on points was helpful for the approach and being able to clip the 6 to. Slightly less mobile, but much more effective than my old ascensionist 35.

Major rockfall recently on Ragged Edge. My friend Kirk and I climbed the route on 9/24/24 (tuesday) The mid-upper part of the route are altered significantly. I copied this from Cascade Mountain Ascents - it is accurate. 🔹A large amount of rock fell from the “edge” of the main slab, right where it becomes more of a roof (which the 5th pitch traverses above). 🔹The last 10-15 feet of the 4th pitch are now more difficult and the protection opportunities are limited. These moves are hard to protect for the second as they make the final moves to the belay and a fall for a follower here would likely involve swinging out into space. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ 🔹The belay at the top of the 4th pitch is now hanging, and the bolts are only ~4ft above the edge of the new section of roof. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ 🔹The beginning of the 5th pitch now sports a wide step-across move to small footholds, although the hands on either end of the span are good. This move is rather height/flexibility dependent. The main challenge with the route now is the final part of the 4th pitch and the initial lead from that anchor. Both are loose, dirty and poorly protected. The first part of the fifth pitch is impossible to protect for the first 20-25 feet and the first 15-20 feet are directly above the bolted anchor and the belayer. Kirk managed a really heady lead there. It would be hard for the belayer to avoid a falling climber there, and a fall anywhere after the first 5 feet would result in a significant sling into the wall since the wall is overhanging there now. Rappelling from there would be super sketch since you would likely be obliged to go right through where the rockfall occurred and there is now still a fair bit of loose rock and blocks. The photos below show me at the belay at the end of the 4th pitch. All the rock just below my feet is now gone. That section felt really hard for both of us but a lot of that was uncertainty of the holds and a fair bit of vegetation. I think it could remain 5.7 with some cleaning. If after that there is still no gear then a bolt or two might be nice. We heard a TON of rockfall on nearby cliffs. Be careful if you go up there.

Awesome, thanks for sharing @wayne !