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Trip: Baffin Island - Auyuittuq Trip Date: 08/02/2024 Trip Report: Prologue If a memory cannot be refuted by evidence than it must be the truth so I present this memory as such even if I have some misgivings whether it is in fact the case. I entered Western Washington University in 1991 and as a freshman living on campus I would frequently find myself in the Wilson Library thumbing through what already felt like an antiquated copy of Doug Scott’s “Big Wall Climbing”. Published in 1974 it was only seventeen years old but felt a world apart from the climbing culture and techniques of the early 1990’s. Within a chapter entitled “The Development of Big Wall Climbing in Remote Regions” the author had written a detailed description of his recent expeditions to Baffin Island. And I would claim it was here I first became aware of Mount Asgard. Asgard, a tremendous granite turret with an ice-covered summit plateau rearing 3,000 vertical feet out of an endless labyrinth of glacier ice. The “Scott Route”, a 4,000 foot-long free climb following a beautifully sculpted pillar of exquisite granite. This was clearly a route I wanted to climb. In fact it was The Route I wanted to climb and for over thirty years it always remained as such. A fantasy at the top of my bucket list exceeding the ability, vision or time I had available at different stages of my life. A transcription of our logbook entry at the Thor Emergency Shelter written on July 28th, 2024 We arrived in Pangnirtung on July 3rd. A healthy snowpack and a cool spring had left the mountains still draped in snow and the head of the fjord still covered in ice. A fortunate warm and windy day broke up the ice and on July 5th we entered the park, arriving here on the 6th under cold, leaden skies in a stiff wind Establishing basecamp, we were then unknowingly blessed with largely cool dry days that alternated between overcast and windy or quiet and partly cloudy. The ice slowly melted from the river, the snow on the peaks melting even slower. The first wildflowers bloomed and the days grew perceptibly warmer, Via both success and failure we developed our understanding of these mountains. Huge approaches, difficult climbing, long descents. On our second attempt we climbing the southwest ridge of Mount Menhir, the looming monolith just west of the hut. We were also fortunate to establish two first ascents on impeccable rock with relatively easy access and quick descents. On the large slab wall approximately 40 minutes up valley we linked beautiful splitters into a ten pitch 5.9 we called “Pang Ten”. Later we climbed it again and added sturdy rap anchors. With a twenty minute approach from the trail and no summit it’s a crag climb on Baffin! Above “Pang Ten” we eyed the beautiful flowing east buttress of the East Tower of Northumbria. From the hut here it’s the right skyline of the rightmost peak of the Northumbria group. With binoculars you can pick out the extensive splitters we climbed just this side of the skyline. Eight pitches of moderate 5.8-5.9 climbing on the most perfect rock. Just pure fun and now setup with solid rap stations. The link up of these two routes would make for an amazing Grade V climb without the extensive approaches or difficult descents of other long routes. Highly recommended! July 19th through the 22nd brought the stable, clear weather climbers dream of on Baffin. A long casual approach with a nice siesta at Summit Lake took us to a high bivi on a thankfully melted out Caribou Glacier. Starting at 1 am on the 20th we approached the fabled Scott Route on the North Summit of Asgard. 1200 meters of climbing over 23 pitches took us to the summit at 10 pm. Witness to a spectacular sunset, an endless sea of jagged peaks like diamonds in the periwinkle glow of the midnight sun. Being on that summit is as “out there” as we’ve ever been. The descent was long and tenuous with terrible snow conditions. We returned to our high camp 30 hours after leaving it. Since then the weather has deteriorated into more typical Baffin conditions, lots of rain, snow in the mountains and strong winds. Thoughts turn to home and family as our remaining days here melt into one another. Yesterday we hauled our first load out to Schartzenbach Falls, tomorrow on the 29th we leave for good. Our stay here has been perfect. So many memories. The intensity and beauty of the high peaks balanced by many wonderful rest days here around the hut, mending clothes, doing laundry, cooking, reading and soaking in the views. The world is vast and we may never return to this location again but our memories will always be of much contentment here, we wanted for nothing. Darin Berdinka (Bellingham, WA) & Owen Lunz (Lafayette, CO) 7/6/24-7/29/24 View up fjord upon arrival in Pang Starting the approach in inclement weather Basecamped next to and occasionally in the Thor Emergency Shelter. Mount Menhir in background. Left skyline is SW Ridge V 5.9. Starting up the southwest ridge of Menhir. Twelve pitches. Possibly 3rd ascent based on archeological assessment of rappel tat. Supernatural alpine beauty Pano from basecamp. Menhir on left, multiple summits of Northumbria on right. Looking up the Active Recovery Wall. Forty minutes up valley of the Thor Hut. Surprised to find no evidence of prior passage. Pitch 5 or so, climbing perfect splitters. Enjoyable corners high on the slab. Thor in background. Top of the slab. A few days later we'd climb the clean 1200' buttress just right of Owen. Approaching the East Tower of Northumbria. Pulling through a roof on perfect locks and crimps. Most of the climbing was in lovely splitters on the best imaginable rock. Summit views out over largely untrodden peaks. View out over Weasel River Valley with Thor across the way once again. View down valley from Summit Lake Emergency Nap in the Emergency Adirondack Chairs at the Summit Lake Emergency Shelter. Looking out over the Parade Glacier at 3 am. Asgard on left. Frigga on right. Another party was establishing a new A5 route on the left most pillar of Frigga that day. Asgard. Route started along right side of square snowpatch. 2nd pitch. Runout slabs. I look stupid in this photo but it does provide an excellent view of the upper pillar. Abandoned equipment high on the route. What epic unfolded here? 2nd to last pitch. Wet, wide and exhausting. Sunset view from just below summit. The artic gloaming. Loki in foreground. Epilogue So on a lovely day in the summer of 2024, several weeks after having climbed Asgard via the Scott Route I returned to the Wilson Library to see if I could track down the book. The library and its grounds felt little changed and somewhat surprisingly the book was still there, biding its time on a dusty shelf. Despite now being three times older than when I first perused it the book felt no more antiquated then it once had. And despite the passage of thirty-three years since those august days of youth I pleasantly realized that, on this day at least, I didn’t feel significantly different either. Other Images The incomparable Breidalblik Peak. Sun/shade line climbed in 1971 at V 5.9 A1. On the wrong side of the river for easy access. Bivi on the Caribou Glacier. Mount Tyr and Mount Walle in background. West Face of Mount Thor Signs of life below Mount Sif. Gear Notes: standard rack Approach Notes: Fly to Pangnirtung. Boat twenty miles up fjord. Hike 25 miles to Asgard. Supplies can be hauled in by sled in winter. Contact Peter Kilabuk.

Trip: Fortress and Helmet Butte - Standard Trip Date: 07/28/2024 Trip Report: I have fallen woefully behind on TRs this summer, not exactly sure what the deal is with that, but I am slowing trying to rectify things. In no particular order from the past few months, here is a short report on a trip I did with my brother @ZakG about a month ago to Helmet Butte and Fortress. Now that I am firmly in my mature mountaineer phase I am oh so slowly working my way through the Bulger list. I say slowly because I think I climbed my first Bulger (Cashmere?) in 1994 or so. I hope to be done before I die, but it might take another decade at the pace I am going. Anyways, I digress, first world problems. @ZakG arrived at Trinity on a beautiful Saturday to a half empty lot and no people milling about. A good sign and indicative of what we would see that weekend....which was nobody. I am not sure if I have hiked more than 20 miles on maintained trails, on a weekend, and not seen another party, but that was what we experienced. I hope this is going to be more common! A few miles up the Buck Creek trail we knew there would be a bridge out over the Chiwawa, but there is a good log that trail crews dropped across the creek Shortly thereafter we were treated to awe inspiring views of Buck's north face, yet another Bulger I haven't gotten to: This section of trail is burned for several miles and there were quite a few logs across the trail that we had to work around. Still, the combination of fireweed and snags made it scenic. After about 9 miles and some on the excellent Buck Creek trail, we veered north on a climber's path to Pass No Pass, which we reached in early afternoon. There was a flowing stream for water a few hundred vert below the pass and not another tent in sight anywhere. After dinner we went up Helmet Butte for the view and to take a look over at Fortress to pick out our route for the next day. The clouds were more stubborn than forecast, and there was smoke in the air from the Suiattle fires, but all of it added some drama to the skies and interest to the views. We couldn't see any tents down at Buck Creek Pass, nor any people. We awoke in a cloud the next day and opted to hang out in the tent for a bit to see if we could get some visibility. It didn't improve much, but we hadn't hiked all that way to not even try and so we slowly made our way up into the murk to see if we could get above it. And sure enough we did! Nothing quite like the feeling when you realize that you are going to have good views and the summit is within reach. See if you can spot @ZakG: @ZakG on the summit of Fortress with Clark behind: Looking toward Bonanza and Dark: Coming down: And then it was the usual, hurry down, pack up camp, slog out, swat flies in the heat, fish the beer out of the creek, eat some chips, change into glorious cotton, and merge into the masses on the highway heading back to town on a Sunday evening. And we wouldn't have it any other way. Gear Notes: Ice axe and crampons if there is snow, helmet. Approach Notes: Buck Creek trail from Trinity to climber's path to No Name Pass. Follow your nose from there to both Helmet Butte and Fortress

Since I know we're all jonesin' to do some scratchin' around: GIV or Haystack, you make the call.

Trip: Mount Watson- West Peak - North Arete Trip Date: 07/16/2024 Trip Report: I want to thank @dberdinka for turning @Trent and myself on to this interesting and highly scenic climb on Mount Watson. I am sure I wouldn't have known about it otherwise and details on it are scarce. Actually details from @dberdinka were scarce too, but that's the way we like it. I knew how to get there and the rest would sort itself out, right? As expected, the approach to the north side of Watson was short and quick. It is a rather complex mountain with multiple summits and ridges, but we identified the only feature we felt @dberdinka would want to climb (a striking and clean buttress that sweeps up to the westerly summit), stepped off the snow, and did some solid scrambling to a ledge. @Trent took the first lead on easy fifth and slightly runout sold slabby rock to a wide ledge. I took the next lead up the steepening buttress, wandering to the right side to find gear and stretching the rope a full 60m to find some cracks I could garden for gear. Fun climbing to mid fifth on generally sound and slabby rock. This brought us to the slightly lower west summit of Watson. But, like many obscure routes in the North Cascades it isn't a gimme and we chuckled as we scratched our heads on the west summit for an "easy" way off. Ultimately, we did some very exposed scrambling down towards the col with the true summit. The col was a gash, and we did a short rap into it off of a block slung with cord. We changed back into boots and did some brush bashing and branch aiding to the true summit. Looking back at the route and West summit of Watson, we could see why @dberdinka had recommended it (it was fun too). Look at it! You can walk off the true summit of Watson and a bit of snow travel brings you around and down to the climber's path and the Anderson/Watson trail. A fun and short day out in the North Cascades! Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, light rack to 3". 60m rope was handy to reach ledges. Rock shoes are nice for the slabby rock Approach Notes: Anderson/Watson trail to climber's path that heads to Watson (or the Bacon Hagan Blum traverse). Find the obvious buttress on the west peak of Watson and step off the snow.