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Trip: Snoqualmie - NY Gully Trip Date: 03/30/2023 Trip Report: Kyle Tarry and Andy Traylor joined me for NY Gully Thursday 3/30. Enough has been written about the route over the years so I'll just say it was a fun time with good guys and share some conditions... Skinning up from Alpental was a little icy in the AM but the old swiped out tracks were nice for the descent in the PM. Fair bit of snow on route, especially the first two pitches and the exit pitches. Snow had a crust and was not supporting weight super well though we made it work. Made digging for pro a little difficult. There was ice but it was thin. We tried to place two stubbies all route and they both bottomed out. Turf was mostly good to swing into. Crux is mostly ice free. We did not do any rappelling but did two exposed snow traverse pitches to get off from the top of the crux pitch. Now what you all wanted... Photos! Pitch 1, snow on rock Pitch 2, more snow on rock Andy follows P2 Kyle on P2 chimney Views Start of P3 "box gully" Andy and Kyle following box gully/P3 P4 pictures, long 60m rope stretcher to base of crux, runout in places, snow covered slab at the end. Crux pitch - P5 Andy is actually on snow here, last of two traverse pitches to get off, traversed right over and up into trees. Gear Notes: Lots of beta on the interwebs, all seems to be about right. Definitely can't sew it up except for the crux which takes great gear. Approach Notes: Skis

Just visited, on 4/5/2023, the Squire Creek road with an axe. Chopped out six alders and two firs that had come across the road. One of them was still covered with snow, so I cut both ends and left it to roll off the road, later. Other than that, there are no new obstructions that would require a bike rider to dismount. I walked up to the South Face turnoff point, about four miles up. There was about two feet of snow there.

21 March 2023 -> the relatively unknown white pass ice was barely holding on. We decided not to climb on 22 March given the temps were too high too long. Observable horizontal fractures (3x) with high overnight temps. We lowered in off the tree, with a deadman picket on the snow bank out left to keep the rope from rubbing in the snow, or on the rock. Lowering directly off the tree will surely cut your rope. Set some screws right to keep away from the fractures. 70m rope touches ground. WI3 start to WI4+. Screws pulled out near end of day, no direct solar. Wind sustained 15 gust 25 from up the creek. WHERE: Clear Creek Cirque. Aka Clear Creek Falls overlook. Park at dog lake, walk east on hwy to the overlook parking (filled in by plow), jump the guard rail and walk down the hill and east to the top of the falls. Brutal 10min approach. With @sfuji Mid February probably best time to go for either the falls left or falls right. The rock is volcano choss / shale. Considered doing some mixed there but the ice was out, and the rock is always out. IMG_7859.HEIC