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Dreaming of the Spearhead....

Trip: Mt Hood - Reid Glacial Headwall Trip Date: 01/28/2022 Trip Report: Blown away at the coolness of the left variation of Reid Headwall, Mullee 8a. Bergschrund at the bottom of the glacier was easy to get over. I tried to skirt the first garbage chute at the bottom by staying right of the big runnel but had to down climb back and go directly up it. Ice fall wasn't bad and winds on route were low. Daggered most of the way though there were at least a couple of steep ice ramps that necessitated swinging. There was 10 - 15 feet of unconsolidated deep snow on the leftward traverse around 10200 before heading into more rock towers. The last pinch point required several minutes of rime removal to make it wide enough to get through. Probably spent over 1/2 an hour gawking and taking pictures of the towers and surrounding ridges. For me, the route is definitely worth a repeat in the future. Gear Notes: 2 tools, helmet, crampons Approach Notes: Icy above Palmer

If it gets La Nina fat later this season, is anyone going for a ski of West Mac?

Just one shortie Snarg, used 3x in the blessed turf blobs. Some very crappy phone pics follow... The first page of the newest Testament: The first 3 meters off the ground: The next 15 meters, which set the tone for most of the climbing: Looking straight up last pitch and summit cornice. (The few other pics I took during the climb were too crappy for publication): Summit shot. If you look closely you can see the chiseled Fingers of Fate: This climb, in the conditions we found it, is harder and more sustained than NYG and PE and all their variations. Though Rolf said that's because we're old now. Praise be Turf for without it we are NOTHING!