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Everything posted by adventure43

  1. [TR] Mt Jefferson - South Ridge 07/23/2021

    More images https://imgur.com/a/YCI9i0w
  2. Trip: Mt Jefferson - South Ridge Trip Date: 07/23/2021 Trip Report: Since this was my first attempt at Mt Jefferson, I figured I’d go with the easiest route. Too many stories about the SW ridge to consider it. Started off Thursday night from Pamelia Lake Trailhead. Great trail over to Coyote Lake but no trail after that. Was surprised that the route went over a small rock outcropping with a little class 3 section – was following the Whole Enchilada route. The rocks started not far after that. There were a couple of snow fields in the path of the route but were easy to get around. Reached the Red Saddle around 5:10 AM. Only about 30 to 40 percent of the traverse had snow and the middle was very steep. Followed a few faint boot prints rather than trying to stay in the moat. Snow was very firm. Got only a couple inches of penetration when plunging the axe so instead, daggered with the axe and a tool the whole way over. Traversed around to the north side. This part seemed to have worse rock quality than North Sister but with slightly less runout danger. Followed a path / cairn to wind back over to west side directly below the summit then climbed the rocks with white covering. Came down the south side of the pinnacle and back over to the west – much easier than the climb up. Gear Notes: Trail runners for the approach, mountaineering boots for the rock and snow, crampons, an axe, a tool, poles, helmet Approach Notes: Long and rocky
  3. current North Sister conditions beta

    There are images of Middle and North Sisters in the following albums (my recent climbs in the area) + you can get an idea of how things have been progressing, melt-wise. The Husband 2021 06 05 https://imgur.com/gallery/TayLDaF South Sister Prouty Glacier 2021 05 29 https://imgur.com/gallery/ux2GaHQ South Sister NW Ridge 2021 05 15 https://imgur.com/gallery/ORuKxPS Middle Sister North Ridge 2021 05 09 https://imgur.com/gallery/8Bvqw1k
  4. Trip: Mt Shasta - Avalanche Gulch Trip Date: 02/22/2021 Trip Report: https://imgur.com/gallery/2HQrTOd Followed tracks until they disappeared somewhere after the Horse Camp turnoff. Snow was varied as usual; some firm crust, some breakable, some soft and fluffy that required kicking in several times to get any support. The steeper section by the Heart was firm. Switched from snowshoes to crampons at Thumb Rock then down climbed and walked way around the crevasse / bergschrund. Rocks on Misery Hill had a thin rime coating making travel easy. Didn't sink in too deep on the summit plateau. Summit block had neat undisturbed rime formations. Gear Notes: Snowshoes, whippets, crampons, helmet, ice axe (used for little down climb from Thumb Rock) Approach Notes: Walk up the gulch
  5. Trip: Mt Adams - South Spur Trip Date: 04/21/2021 Trip Report: Hiked up from the Wicky Shelter. If one can drive through the foot high snow on the sweeping corner above Wicky Shelter, there is a bunch of dry road above it. But, it was clear that at least one vehicle had been stuck in it. Followed the normal winter route but headed right to view the sunrise on the Mazama Glacier Headwall(?), below image. Hiked up a bit more and then left to get back to the normal route - had to cross a narrow crevasse to do so. Descended the summer route. Seems like it is melting out fast as there were exposed rocks on the normal climbing route up to the Piker's Peak plateau. More images https://imgur.com/gallery/CYAsv8p Gear Notes: Whippets, crampons, helmet (didn't use), axe (barely used), snow shoes Approach Notes: Long road walk from Wicky Shelter
  6. [TR] Mt Hood - Cathedral Ridge 04/18/2021

    Great job sending the route and what a fantastic write up. Watermelon sized, ouch! Glad you two made it without serious injury. Love seeing the full resolution shots by opening images in another window and removing the extra filter from the URL. Definitely beats trying to figure out where Instagram hides full res images locally. You are correct that the 7775 crossing of Yocum is right under that big ass rock in your 4th picture. So yeah, overhead danger but so nice not losing more elevation. The route appears to be melting out fast. Seemed like there was full, or nearly full, snow coverage 20 days previously. The part where you decided to skirt rather than do the bouldering thing was much easier earlier. Had the same reaction as you did, no way on the left, right was maybe OK, but let’s give going straight up a chance – not too bad with snow coverage. Always wondered who uses those string crampons things – scary 😊. Here is to wishing next season Mt Hood will get several storm cycles without accompanying 40+ MPH winds.
  7. Trip: Mt Hood - Cathedral Ridge Trip Date: 04/03/2021 Trip Report: Images https://imgur.com/gallery/qoDJPvE 10:00 PM Climbers lot at Timberline 12:00 AM Top of Palmer 01:10 AM Illumination Saddle 02:40 AM 7775 feet at Yocum Ridge crossing 03:30 AM At bottom of Cathedral Ridge ramp 05:20 AM At top of ramp and on ridge 06:30 AM 9345 feet 08:30 AM Past crux pyramid rock tower 09:45 AM 10540 feet 10:50 AM Summit Climbed Cathedral Ridge on Saturday on foot from Timberline. A little bit of breakable crust but not bad from Palmer to Illumination Saddle. Downclimb onto the Reid was easy. Across the Reid had mostly semi firm nice snow. No crevasses in sight. Crossing of Yocum at 7775 was easy. Ran out of energy in the middle of crossing the Sandy Glacier. Only had a single bar to that point, not that my stomach would have like more. Sounded like a river of small ice pieces was coming down from the cliffs to the left of the ramp up to Cathedral Ridge. Also, there was a ~4-foot-wide rock that had recently fallen down off the ridge sitting on the Sandy. Not good signs but oh well. Went up the ramp. The right side was getting a good bit of ice fall. One barrage had several 2-3-inch sized chunks and one football sized or larger. Seriously contemplated turning around. Staying to the left kept me out most of it, was hit only once and not too bad. Got up into the rocks on the left side of the ramp and around something that I though might take me to the ridge but was a dead end / cliff on the left. Traversed right back to the route and then up to the ridge proper and was able to stay out of any icefall. In the future, if I try this again it will have to be where there is a better freeze. Freezing level this morning was only forecast for 7800 feet. Getting around the gum drop was super easy, barely noticed there was exposure on the right. The crux pyramid rock tower had good snow and the lower part was easy to climb. About half way up traversed left and then climbed that side. Seemed a whole lot safer than down climbing out on the Ladd Headwall or whatever it is called on the left side even though it is much less steep. One slip and that’d be it. Another option would be to stay at the same elevation and climb through the rocks - a bunch more work and still have to climb up later in maybe worse conditions. Went on hands and feet along the knife edge traverse though it was still better than expected. Gear Notes: Crampons, 2 tools, helmet Approach Notes: Normal slog up cat tracks. MtHoodCathedralRidge.gpx
  8. [TR] Mt Hood - DKH- Elliot HW linkup 04/03/2021

    Great job up there and nice to bump into to you as you were heading down the ridge to get to the Eliot. I’d hoped to get a few shots of you coming up the headwall but you were probably having a nice lunch.
  9. Great job DEP. That sounded pretty adventurey. Definitely not for solo-ing. You both were gone by the time I got up there but I did see a couple of climbers (only one in the pic) on the NW ridge from doing Reid or Leuthold around 11:30. Was that you Nolan?
  10. [TR] MT HOOD - Sandy Glacier HW 03/13/2021

    Thanks kadyakerbob for the trip report. I wanted to do it the same day your party did but conditions didn't seem right. Did you guys go all the way down to 7600? I got tired of skirting around and bee-lined to the ridge at 7770 and saw that it was easy to get on to the Sandy there, so I did. A few images from my climb on 2021 03 17 https://imgur.com/gallery/WBap5Qe. nonbasketless, I saw 4-6, 6 - 8 wide inch seems opening up around 8400 on the Sandy as I was heading to the climb. All were covered or at least mostly. I looked at one more carefully as it had small holes, an inch around, at its edge and one could see black below. The crevasse at the top of the Hogsback is very open as is the tube just above the Devil's Kitchen area. Didn't see any opening on the Reid but it was dark.
  11. Trip: Mt McLoughlin - Through rock in North bowl Trip Date: 03/03/2021 Trip Report: Somehow I stumbled across this image of Mt McLoughlin and decided the route in red would be fun. Is this covered in any guide books? https://image.shutterstock.com/shutterstock/photos/1105471811/display_1500/stock-photo-mount-mcloughlin-oregon-1105471811.jpg For the past couple of months mountain-forecast showed a good weather window a week or more out but every time the forecast changed and spoiled the party. I tried once before, https://imgur.com/gallery/uB410zr, but gave up en route since conditions weren’t suitable. This time looked good and after a storm cycle that ended on Sat - Sun, three clear days in a row were forecast. Headed down to Summit Snow Park after work on Tuesday and caught a nap before heading out. Arrived too early at the saddle between the North and NE bowls so hung around for the sunrise. Should have brought a long ice axe and a stubby but had two ice tools. There was 0.5 inch crust with no too consolidated snow underneath. Easy to kick in but not solid. A few more pictures here https://imgur.com/a/H4XqwZC Gear Notes: Snow shoes, helmet, crampons, two ice tools - should have brought axes. Approach Notes: From Summit Snow Park headed down FS 3650 and up the normal hiker route. Off trail traverse wasn't too bad with just a bit of side hill action. See attached GPX for the route.
  12. Trip: Shastina - Lightning Bolt Trip Date: 02/07/2021 Trip Report: https://imgur.com/gallery/x2a9sHq There was a good trail over to Horse Camp and signs of people doing avy rescue drills above it but past that, it was choose your own adventure. The snow on the climb up to the traverse over to Hidden Valley was soft and snowshoes sunk several inches. The rocks on the traverse were largely uncovered - took off snowshoes and tried with just boots but eventually switched to crampons. Snow in Hidden Valley was not too bad - didn't sink more than 6 inches w\ crampons. The Lightning Bolt couloir was the only section with good snow cover and was decently firm. Gear Notes: Snowshoes, whippets, crampons, helmet - didn't use axe Approach Notes: Slog from Bunny Flat
  13. Thanks jiepj. I didn't know it was a known route until after the trip. The Mullee book has a green dashed line on page 81 showing the route but doesn't talk about it at all. Icefall / Boy Scouts Chute The Chute
  14. Trip: Mt Hood - Right Ridge of Icefall / Boy Scouts Chute Trip Date: 12/04/2020 Trip Report: Climbed up the rime encrusted rocks on the right ridge of the Icefall / Boy Scouts Chute. Tool and foot placements were difficult since there was little consolidated snow or hard ice. Most of the ice was rime on large rocks. The lower part of the route was the most difficult. More image here https://imgur.com/gallery/x2t3tMU Route: Some mid-route shots: About to top out: Gear Notes: Two tools, crampons, helmet Approach Notes: Walk up the chewed up cat tracks
  15. Did the marathon yesterday but went up the West Ridge of South https://imgur.com/gallery/yYDUvoc and got a ride back to Pole Creek Trailhead (cheating). See attached GPX of the route. There is small stream of water to climber's right coming off the snow between Middle and North in the saddle - didn't get any from this. Between Middle and South there is a snow field near the bottom on descender's right which had a nice stream of water that ran into one of the Chambers Lakes - drank from this. There was also a nice stream at the plateau north of the West Ridge - drank from this. I took 4 liters and wished I had 6, it was warm though. Probably drank 1.5 liter of water from the snow melts. Three Sisters Marathon - S Sister W.gpx
  16. North Sister conditions?

    Thanks a ton dinomyte. I very much look forward to reading your report and seeing the pictures. I'll probably try again this Friday if the weather holds out.
  17. North Sister conditions?

    Anyone been up recently? Is the snow off the terrible traverse and out of the bowling alley? I was up on the SE ridge Friday AM but turned around due to poor visibility, wet and rockfall. There sure seemed like a lot of snow up the side of the ridge for this time of year. Some images from the trip https://imgur.com/gallery/wEwQCUz. Heading up the moraines before the clouds rolled in
  18. Looks like a blast going down the NW ridge. You two are brave to swim in Carver Lake. Glad you only got cold and not sick. Carver Lake looks like liquid scree to me.
  19. Trip: Mt Adams - NW Ridge Trip Date: 06/19/2020 Trip Report: Images: https://imgur.com/gallery/xtuhf6H Started from a turnout near Takhlakh Lake and headed up the Divide Camp Trail. Probably could have driven to the Divide Camp Trail but there was a bit of snow – a Lexus 4x4 was at the trail head. Crossed over the PCT intersection and just followed a route that seemed reasonable. I went up a couple of the moraines that didn’t have snow cover. It probably would have been better to have stayed lower in the valleys and then climbed up the moraines at the very ends. Some of the tops of the valleys had deep moats at their ends. Gained the ridge around 8000 feet. Didn’t see any bergschrund lower down as mentioned on summitpost. I was on a rock ridge for a bit and then stayed to the left to keep on the snow. Conditions weren’t ideal, since very little was firmly consolidated. It was nice to have two tools when heading left towards the North Face of the ridge (40 degrees?). Down climbing the steep parts was a chore given the slushiness of the snow. It was at most just freezing on the summit that night and morning. Saw a few people on the summit but none while I was there. There were three boot tracks that appeared to come from the North Ridge / Cleaver route but I didn’t see them. The big chunks separating at the top of the Adams glacier were a spectacular sight and well worth the climb. Definitely will come up the north side again. Attached GPX file is not a recorded route, just a best guess. Gear Notes: Helmet, crampons, axe, two tools Approach Notes: Divide Camp Trail - a walk through the woods
  20. Trip: Middle Sister - East Face Trip Date: 06/05/2020 Trip Report: Images: https://imgur.com/a/2r8kVaa Anyone else do this route, #14 from Jeff Thomas's Oregon High, or #15a East Arete? Seems there are no modern TRs. 9:15 PM start 10:15 PM Camp and Green Lakes trails intersection Midnight above normal camping area just out of the woods 2 AM Above final moraine 4:30 AM Above the East Face on SE Ridge 5 AM Summit A couple of weeks ago I got a good image of the East side of Middle Sister and the #14 East Face, green line, and #15a East Arete, blue line, routes looked good, https://i.imgur.com/7lj8kNl.png. Figured it was best to have a go before the next storm cycle this weekend. This, https://i.imgur.com/toFrlVF.jpg, gives the best (though still crummy) shot of the actual route, see the center left snow ramp. This was the first time for me on the Diller Glacier. It sure is nice to have such an easy approach, no steep moraines to navigate. Unfortunately, the moon was obscured in the little bowl that is the East Face and all the pictures I took didn’t turn out. Oh well, I’ll try to describe things. After getting up the lower ramp, I looked for a way to get past the bergschrund. In the darkness I thought I saw a way to get up on the far left but that was a no go. Traversed to the center and there was a super crappy ramp that had next to no support in the middle – nope. Tried to traverse a bit more to the right and found gaping holes in the snow and the rock under my feet like there were multiple bergschrunds. I think the snow and rock was debris from the bergschrund and or crap from previous avy events. I down climbed a bit to keep out of danger and then finally went all the way to the right and found a decent ramp right next to the cliff. I hadn’t seen or heard any rockfall from the cliffs but still, not the greatest place to be. Stayed close to the cliff, and I think there was another bergschrund but it was to the left of the cliff. Got in a moat-ish depression and followed it up probably less than 50 feet until it ended in crap snow and 3-foot hole next the cliff. Traversed left and got into a multiple foot wide runnel. Another 50-ish feet up, this ended too. With more leftward traversing, finally got somewhere near the middle of the face and away from the cliff – big relief. The snow up to that point was fairly firm and even required swinging the tools to get penetration. This didn’t last too long and soon I was just pushing the tools in. The crampons previously weren’t penetrating too deep but now, if I kicked a bit, the 1 – 1.5-inch crust broke. There was probably 3 – 4 inches of not complete fluff underneath but definitely not well consolidated either, bleck. The crust never sounded hollow but breaking through it seemed to cause some sort of vibration, or at least, it didn’t sound great to me. I climbed as gingerly as I could to stay on the crust and not cause a slide. The rest of the climb was fairly easy. The slope was probably 30 – 40 degrees. There were some open holes in the snow further up but they were easy to navigate around. I angled to the left a bit and got up to the SE Ridge, happy to be out of harm’s way. Had the summit to myself and watched the sunrise from further down the standard route. The wind was non-existent except on the very edge of the SE Ridge and the summit, maybe up to 25 MPH. Ran in to the climber that camped the previous night and chatted a bit on the ridge above the Hayden Glacier. This route might be fun when in condition but that probably won’t happen until next season. Gear Notes: Helmet, crampons, axe (didn't use), 2 tools Approach Notes: Normal Middle / North Sister approach except stay to climbers left coming up the final moraines and then veer left to get to the route - see attached GPX.
  21. Trip: South Sister - Silver Couloir Trip Date: 05/25/2020 Trip Report: Images: https://imgur.com/a/5vQUocK 9 PM start 11 PM pass North / Middle sister climbers trail on Camp Lake trail 12:45 AM Camp Lake 5 AM base of the climb 7 AM heading down from North Face Couloir 8 AM top of Silver Couloir 8:45 AM Summit Thanks ScaredSilly, Drocka, et al. for your trip reports on South Sister. Maybe you could name the route you took The Fin for the rock near the bottom of the route. https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/101689-tr-south-sister-north-face-05222018/ https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/101726-tr-south-sister-north-face-of-northwest-ridge-nfnwr-06262011 My intention was to climb the North Face Couloir. https://imgur.com/a/aPEHYwd showed good snow coverage over the rock bands. I’d watched the radar in the middle of the week for South Sister when it was forecast to get 7.5 inches of snow and it seemed like it rarely got any. My brother’s old skiing and climbing friend skied Mt Bachelor on Friday and said there was 1 – 1.5 feet of new snow on top of a solid base. One day of sun, Friday, was surely not going to consolidate that. Brother skied Mt Hood on Saturday and said there was decent climbing conditions. Hmm, well, it was forecast to warm up on South Sister in the next week so I figured I may has well try now as it probably wasn’t going to get any better the rest of the season. Drove down Saturday afternoon and was on the trail by 9 PM. Started out in a sun hoody, warm gloves and an ear band, added a hat an hour in, fleece top three hours in and then finally a thin wind jacket after getting out of the trees. It was cool with little wind. The approach from Pole Creek was the normal dusty trail for the first few hours with lots of logs and a few downed trees giving way to snow and non-dead trees later. The lower snow was compact and easy to walk on, the new snow, higher up was, as expected, not consolidated. Most of the way over this was fine, nice to have some cushioning when walking in mountaineering boots. As I climbed out of Camp Lake the unconsolidated snow got deeper, maybe six inches and I put on crampon. It was still very dark, new moon that morning, when I checked Gaia to find I’d slightly overshot the turn to start climbing up to the route but was able to go up a bit and traverse left to get there. Heading up the canyon, the snow just got deeper and was still not consolidated. I stabbed the axe down to the hilt with my right hand, pushed the blade of the tool as deeply as I could with the left, kicked in hard and pretended things were going to be fine even though nothing was solid but the snow was holding my weight. Getting up the first rock band was no problem and to the bottom of the second, not much more than traversing right and left to take the best route. The start of the second band required getting over a couple of, not too large, rocks. To my surprise I was able to get a solid tool placement above the rocks and hoisted myself up while pushing off another rock. The upper part of the second band was a different story. The rocks were bigger, steeper and partially covered in ice. I swung the tool hard twice into the exact same spot on a rock covered in ice and got nothing more than an inch-wide divot, no penetration at all. I tried a couple of other spots and reaching around the rock to see if I could hook something but it was too large. Looking up at the final rock band, I resigned that even if I could get above the immediate rocks, there is no way I’d be able to climb to the top this way. My original hope was that the snow just to the right of the final rock band face wouldn’t be too steep and I’d find a way up. Not a chance, there was hardly any snow on the rocks, just a wall of rock and boulders covered in ice. After down climbing a bit, I traversed left, staying close to the rock cliff, and went up the Silver Couloir. This was as advertised, a straightforward steep snow climb. The last 10 feet were very steep and kicking in was more like kicking in my entire lower leg. The lower angle slope to the summit ring had a bunch of unconsolidated snow too but there were areas that were actually firm. After talking to the only group on the summit, I headed southward along the rim and started heading down. The snow was now sticking to my boots and gaiters making massive clown shoes. Not too long later I see a guy on the summit ridge in a Grivel helmet. He says he just climbed the Silver Couloir too. He thanked me for making steps and asks to exchange info so we could do the N Face Couloir next year. Any other time I would be like, heck yeah, that sounds great but I’m completely defeated and want nothing to do with that thing and think no one should climb it without a top rope or years of ice climbing experience. Shoot, I was way too literal in my thinking and missed the chance of finding a great climbing partner. He even offered to makes steps down the North Ridge which he did and I followed but he was long gone by the time I got over there. The walk back to Pole Creek TR was like experiencing a dream where all my movements were slow and painful. I just tried to keep moving and think I’ll get back eventually. The thought of chocolate covered almonds made the idea of driving 3+ hours home bearable. I’ll remember this one for a while. Maybe do a route on the Prouty side next? Gear Notes: Helmet, crampons, axe, 2 tools (only used one) Approach Notes: The normal dusty trail for the first few hours with lots of logs and a few downed trees giving way to snow and non-dead trees later
  22. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see it much at all, it must have been around 3:45 AM that I passed that area.