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Trip: Slate Peak - Clean Slate Couloir Trip Date: 02/21/2022 Trip Report: @thedylan and Dave Duyee and I skied the Clean Slate Couloir off of the N ridge of the N Peak of Slate Peak. Dylan wanted it to be a climb also, but it was just a point on the ridge... I wanted a peak too Dylan, but it wasn't to be. We parked ... wait, first I called in sick... then we parked at the White Salmon Snow Park and skinned briefly up Anderson Creek Road. Dylan had graciously scouted the trip the day before and even put in some skin track. There was some of this: Ans this: And this: But finally there was this: And then even some of all this: The snow was amazing and the fresh went down to about 2500' where we entered the woods. Thanks to Dylan for scouting it! If you don't know this one, it looks something like this: Gear Notes: skis, booze Approach Notes: Short, but Cascadian.

Trip: Axis Peak - South Gully Trip Date: 02/19/2022 Trip Report: @Albuquerque Fred and I were at it again. We really felt the need to climb Axis Peak this time, it just calls to you from every vantage... note the sarcasm. I was foolish enough to say "I'm up for anything". Fred thinks is cool to climb lists, I don't; but then I'm not opposed to it on principle either. So off we went on Friday night to TH bivy on Icicle Creek Road at the gated and snowed in 8-Mile road. Fortunately, Eminem was not present. We were up early but it was stupid warm in the morning (tomorrow would bring a fast moving cold front). We knew we had to get out early as a big storm was moving in and we didn't want to be in the mountains, plus we still had the drive back west over the pass. The road went easy but the Bellevue crowd had been slacking as the trail was super not packed out (I assume it is Instagram that causes the normal luge chute and not Leavenworth locals, correct me if I'm wrong, I don't travel here often). We skinned ice crust with occasional post holes and snowshoe crampon scratches to within 1/4 mile of Lake Stuart, then ascended the fan up the gully on the south side of Axis peak. I had a bad experience the previous weekend with ice crust skiing so I was adamant that skis were only for that approach today and we left them at the fan at around 5300'. It was super icy here with about half a dusting of snow from throughout the morning. The gully was a dream, perfect secure cramponing on moderate slopes with some dirt and moss to remind you that you're in the cascades. The gully actually served to focus the sun and block the wind as well so it was amazingly pleasant. The weather called for intense ridgecrest winds. We tagged the summit, signed in, and bailed down a couple hundred feet out of the gale to eat lunch. The descent was amazing, but firm enough the I was still glad we ditched the skis. I got to try out my new skis on frozen avy debris, and sun crust, plus dirty, thin forest on the way out, so that's a plus. We only skied down to 4660' then skinned again, all the way to the road. At least I did, Fred insisted on shuffling in walk mode with no skins despite it obviously being slower and sketchier. Oh well, at least I was proven right. Photos: Oh yeah, in case you are not aware, Axis Peak is the next ridge north of Stuart. Before you ask... North side of Dragontail. Approach skinning: Argonaut: Not the best coverage out there these days: Up the gully, it's better than it looks: There is no summit photo that doesn't look cheezy is there? Gear Notes: Axe, crampons, helmet, skis for the approach. Approach Notes: Road was easy, trail was terrible.

That'd be granite point, out across the lake from Talache. You need a good boat (4-5 foot waves not uncommon out there, next point from granite is aptly named windy point) since the feds decided to rake up the high drive for "caribou habitat protection". Mostly single pitch stuff, lots of loose rock, doesn't see much traffic from what I can tell, would be really good if it cleaned up, there's a super classic crack I can't remember the name of worth doing. Around the corner in the Green Monarchs there is 8-10 pitch potential on quartzite ridges, I think the right side (slabby) would be uber easy, like 5.2 hiking and the left side (super steep) would need to be bolt protected and probably in the 5.13 range. I'm sure you could find something in between, possibly right on the arete. The fact that I'm sharing this info signals the end of my era as an intrepid first ascentionist.

One guy who can comment with authority on Dan Krumpotich's adventures is Rich Landers at the Spokesman Review in Spokane. He doesn't post on this list though. Dan was very circumspect about what he accomplished with those Rocky Mountain Academy students back in the 70's. He wanted to keep the first acsent feel for the next guy. But for many of those N face routes in the Selkirks, there hasn't been a next guy that anyone knows of. Well, maybe stealth ascents are the pattern for those mountains. I suspect the same is true in many other mountain ranges. Some few individuals spend many happy days putting up routes where no one has gone before, but they arn't the least interested in documenting the occasion in the AAC journal. The only reason I am aware of these trips is that I took a 4 day ski traverse from Pack River to Trout Creek with him. He pointed out several faces he had climbed. I was amazed, and badgered him into telling me more. Only the fact that he is deceased made me mention these at all. The first ascent feel is still there for the next guy, since no one will ever get the beta from Dan now. As it should be. Still, I hope any new "first ascenders" will honor him during their own adventures. And perhaps follow his "leave no trace" example.

Hey Joe just to be fair. Randy, Dave and I did the 1st FA of Sudden impact on the pins Randy had placed in the previous week via rappel. The only reason Dave and I were invited on SI for the FFA was we had given Randy so much shit about placing more fixed pins on a Chimney crack. (the shit continiued for the pins in Amoral Raider's as well) The 3 of us had done Ill/FF earlier in the day. The FFA of SI was the real goal for the day. Larry Peterman and I had tried the route the week before. Larry had fallen and hung on Randy's pre placed pins. So I had TR'ed the route. Randy had as well when placing the pins and working the crack with a hammer. My preference would be that someone take a good look at the crack (from rappel if needed) and try RPs in the now obvious pin scars. (heck they are big scars, some which you now climb on) It isnt that hard by today's standards and the fall is clean. UNI is a good example of what can be done clean. Also worth noting that fixed nuts aren't all that great on Chimney either. Kimmie (anchors) and Graystoke both had/have fixed nuts that had cables fried by lightening. Nice work on Illusions. FWIW I first placed pins on that route as well, but on lead (two). Then a year later, we came back and did it again and was able to pull the pins by hand...much like what Marty discribes on SI. Frost wedging is a bitch up there. On later ascents I did learn to appreciate how the new smaller TCUs worked in the same crack. [edited several times because of my weak memory)