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Trip: Anderson - Eel Glacier Trip Date: 05/30/2021 Trip Report: I've been wanting to climb Anderson for years, and finally had a chance this Memorial Day weekend. My son and I drove up separately from my friend Noel on Friday night, arriving after 10:30. There was already a number of cars parked at the end of the Dosewallips road and we parked my rig in the first dirtbag pullout (with a firepit) a few hundred feet away from the end of the road. We got up at 5 am, sorted gear, and headed up the old forest road on bikes all the way to the old ranger station. This was rather pleasant in the cool morning and we made fairly quick work of it (under two hours). We did a quick gear swap (padded shorts, gloves off) and stashed our bikes then headed up trail. The trail to Honeymoon meadows was in great shape and mostly dry until the last 1/4 mile or so. As the trail followed close to the river near Honeymoon meadows some lingering snow made for interesting going (don't fall!) but it was nothing difficult. We got an ice axe out for one short step. These patches were, however, enough to turn around a couple of parties of backpackers, who we presumed had permits for the Honeymoon Meadows area. The Honeymoon meadows camp is still under snow with just a few campsites discernible. We opted to continue on as our permits were for higher up. A fast party of two caught up to us here as we tried to find a stream crossing. We recognized one person from this party and exchanged some small talk. No logs spanning the stream suited us so we took off our boots and waded across, then continued on snow up to Siberia, then on to Anderson Pass. We made camp just above the pass. Views late in our approach: Views near camp: We got an early start and headed up to the knoll and the Anderson "glacier" beyond. The same fast party of two passed us here (they had camped at Siberia) and a party of 4 caught up as well. We were not too disappointed as they all proceeded to kick a glorious boot path up to Flypaper Pass, taking a directissimo route up (I believe the usual way is a snow finger on climber's left that is the only way up). The slope was sustained 40 degrees with a few 45 degree sections. My son on the knoll above the Anderson Glacier: Anderson looking real purty: Conga line below Flypaper Pass: From Flypaper Pass we traversed under cliff bands on the right, avoiding as much loss of elevation as possible (and still following the boot path set by others). We attained the ridge which was still snow covered and followed snow to the summit. Only a few summit rocks were melted out and the final 30 feet or so was a bit exposed with bad runout, so we took our time and care. My son on the summit: KK just below the summit with glorious spring views! From the time we got to the ridge to the summit weather started coming in - with misty drizzling, so we did not linger on the summit long. We retraced our steps to Flypaper Pass. Then weather started improving. A fourth party arrived at Flypaper Pass as we prepared to descend. That made 4 parties and 13 people total on a remote Olympic mountain early season. Is there anywhere you can go these days for solitude? Noel faced out and plunge-stepped most of the steep snow down. My son and I faced in and downclimbed which was slow and strenuous. But the footing was super solid. As the slopes moderated there was some sloppy postholing. The even flatter slopes were easy going. Views S from Flypaper Pass. That big, dirty slide was about all the recent slide activity we saw. The snow is nicely consolidated. After descending face-in: We then continued back to camp. It was early enough to get part-way out, so we broke camp, dropped to Honeymoon Meadows and dug a platform on snow to camp. A couple other parties were there but the camp was nowhere near full. We took a log crossing near camp to cross the stream (we had passed it on the approach two days earlier). On Sunday morning we slept in a bit and hiked back the 9 miles or so to our bikes, then had a glorious coasting down the 6 miles or so to the cars, where an ice cold Icicle Hazy IPA awaited me. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet Approach Notes: Snow starting just before honeymoon meadows.

Trip: Jack - Nohokomeen Headwall Trip Date: 05/30/2021 Trip Report: Ever since this route has become popular, I've wanted to check it out. Jack is hard to ignore from anywhere, but especially from Ross Lake, where my family and I typically like to camp for a week each August. While I have climbed Jack from the east side, the north side is the show stopper from Ross, with the giant Nohokomeen Glacier dominated the view from the north end of the lake. In the words of @Trent (though he couldn't join @therunningdog @sparverius @kmfoerster and I), "It must be climbed!" And so we did. But it wasn't fast. We spread our effort over three days, with one full day for the summit and associated lounging, and another day on either end for approaching and running away. We waited until the highway was open, so there was none of that uncivilized biking stuff you might have seen on nwhikers. No way! We were, uh, civilized. And very serious- so serious this mountain climbing business. No joking, no laughing, no resting, and certainly no campfire or whiskey... It was all business and very professional. That's how we roll. Gear Notes: Snowshoes were handy for portions....ice axe, light 2nd tool, aluminum crampons, helmet, light glacier gear. We soloed the headwall up and down Approach Notes: East Bank trail and then up by May Creek. East bank trail is mostly cut out, only one log to hop over. Light brush and pretty straightforward travel and routefinding up the hill, based on where it looks best on the map. Nohokomeen Headwall is to about 50-55 degrees and the summit ridge is exposed.

Trip: Whitehorse - Lone Tree Pass Trip Date: 05/22/2021 Trip Report: I first climbed Whitehorse early on as I began climbing. I thought it would be a great way to introduce my son to steeper terrain with the short ramp on the top, and it's always a good conditioner as a day trip. Last year we attempted the route in early May, and ended up having the mountain to ourselves midweek. The downside is we broke trail the entire day, and I turned us around 10 feet from the summit, unable to pull the lip safely with my light 10-pt crampons and ice axe. The summit block was snow covered (a combination of graupel and sugar snow over some ice). That was disheartening and discouraging to say the least. When we got to the car I said "I'm not going back there". But time heals all wounds, and we made a return trip - a very different return trip. Firstly, the crowds. Holy fuck. We arrived to car camp the night before to a full parking area at 10:30 Friday night. Fortunately we found a spot in a wide spot in the road just outside the "lot". Then we were awoken at 2:30 am by people getting up and cars pulling in, including one young woman that hit a parked car across from us (great way to start a trip :P). Our alarms were set for 5 am, so once the crowds finished setting out by 3:30 or 4, we got a few more zzzs. We headed up at 5:40 am. Not much to say about the approach and climb. Snow was melting near the usual spot you turn off to ascend snow - I'd say 250' from the bottom to avoid the brush poking out (3250' elevation). From there it was continuous to the summit block. We took 6:50 from cars to High Pass, which I consider descent for my old, broken body. And I didn't feel bad, either. But... we were following a pounded-in boot path from that 2:30 am crowd which made for easy going. By the time we got to High Pass the crowds were all descending or off the summit block, except for one team of three who had started at 4am that we caught up to. So, we ended up just waiting a bit behind them. Everyone was soloing the snow ramp, and so did we. It's steepest was 55-60 degrees or so - steeper than I remember. I had brought 12 point grivels this time AND a 2nd tool. I wasn't about to turn around at the summit this time, but neither were necessary. We rappelled from the exposed anchor on the top. The hike out was pleasant, and we were alone the whole way down. Pics follow. First view of the objective on the approach. Note the wide boot path: Summit ramp. These pics never do make anything look steep - camera angle and all: Father and son on the summit, separately: I have summitted Whitehorse three times now. This is the first time I got summit views South! Stefan on rappel: Hiking out below Lone Tree Pass: Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet. Approach Notes: Snow starting around 3250'

Trip: Mount Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier Trip Date: 05/30/2021 Trip Report: Mount Shuksan via Sulphide Glacier for some corn farming, mostly sharing for conditions update. Th > 3.5 miles to Shannon Ridge is a slog. Fun turns to be had around 7,000FT We did not get up to the Summit Pyramid, but heard it was snow with some mixed moves from other parties. Gear Notes: GPS track extremely handy for descent through the woods Approach Notes: TH to ~3.5 miles to " the notch" is more efficient to boot pack at this point. We didn't pull out skins until we were atop Shannon Ridge. View from Shannon Ridge towards the notch Traverse onto the Sulphide Glacier proper Good turns to be had Summit Pyramid

Trip: Mount Baker - Park Glacier Trip Date: 05/30/2021 Trip Report: TR and GPS track here: https://www.jeffreyjhebert.com/adventures/park-glacier-on-mount-baker With a decent forecast over the long Memorial Day Weekend, Colin and I decided to put the work in to access the remote Northeast side of Mount Baker. It turned out we timed our trip quite well, being able to skin straight from the Heather Meadows parking lot at the Mount Baker Ski Area and encountering some tricky, but doable crevasse crossings near the top of the route. Expecting about 4-5 hours of approach, we left Seattle in the late morning, departing from the car at 1:30pm. It was hot in the bright sun as we climbed up to Artist Point and even hotter climbing up to the shoulder of Table Mountain without much of a breeze. We made it here in about 1h 20m from the car—not bad for schlepping overnight gear! The short descent toward Ptarmigan Ridge wasn’t worth transitioning for, so we awkwardly skied down the sticky warm snow and across to a point where we could start climbing again. We decided to stay relatively high and climber’s left along Ptarmigan Ridge. While this likely included a bit of extra up and down, we were able to stay with skins on all the way to the saddle next to Coleman Pinnacle, arriving in about 3 hours from the car. We did a curling traverse down and skier’s right from the saddle, keeping skins on again. This got us to what’s marked as Camp Kiser on some maps, which has a fabulous view of Shuksan. We decided to press on to The Portals, with one more awkward skins-on descent and one more climb before reaching our destination for the day after 4 hours on the dot (5:30pm). We dug out a campsite, set up shop, and enjoyed a lovely evening watching the mountain pink up. Knowing the upper Northeast-facing cirque would bake as soon as the sun rose, we got going decently early, skiing away from camp at 5am. There is a cliff band at roughly 6,150 feet which is tough to scope well from above. We eventually found an exit we could ski at the far skier’s right edge of our traverse from camp, then skied down onto the Rainbow Glacier. The snow was quite firm but the angle looked reasonable to skin all the way up, so we put ski crampons on. Our ascent of the glacier went smoothly, weaving around crevasses as we encountered them and using some photos we’d taken of the route from camp the evening prior. A big sulfur vent near 8,000 feet really completed the volcanic ambiance. At about 9,000 feet, we skinned up between two gaping crevasses running vertically down the mountain. At about 9,500 feet, we had to end run a big crevasse toward the North before swinging back left across the face. It was clear from here that the “moat” described in the ski tour guidebook as being “easy or difficult depending on conditions” was fully out and would easily fit a school bus. We’d expected to come back across the face to find a ramp across a high crevasse and this worked out well. The snow bridge crossing this final crevasse was a good 8 feet wide, spanning a narrow point about 10 feet across. The rest of the crevasse was much more open and it was a big one. I gingerly skinned across with Colin below me and the rope tight, thinking light thoughts until I was safely on the other side. I dug in and body belayed him across. From there, our final challenge was to make a traversing ascent of the headwall above this gaping crevasse. Thankfully, the snow was perfect for kicking in good steps and we just took our time. At 10,180 feet, I busted through a small cornice and onto the ridge above the Cockscomb. It was relatively easy going from there across ice and wind-affected snow. We reached the top at 10:15am, so just over 5 hours from camp despite that painstaking rising traverse. We celebrated briefly, explained where we were coming from to some folks coming from the Coleman-Deming, and then scooted back from whence we came to get back across that face and the snow bridge before things warmed much further. Thankfully both went well and we were able to enjoy a stress-free 4,000-foot ski back down the Park and Rainbow Glaciers. The snow was heaviest up high and improved the lower we went, with really fun corn on the bottom third. We skinned back up towards camp, booting the short cliff band and then side-hilling through south-facing slop. We arrived at 1pm and had a nice, leisurely lunch with some tea. Fresh socks were downright luxurious. The rest of our descent went smoothly, mostly retracing our approach line except for taking a lower route North of Coleman Pinnacle to avoid gaining unnecessary elevation. At 5:30pm, we arrived at the Heather Meadows parking lot and retrieved our stashed beers from a snowbank. Over 22 miles with a lot of traversing made for some pretty beat-up feet and we were very excited to exit our boots. Obligatory Aslan Brewery waffle fries and burgers capped off an excellent 2-day adventure. Gear Notes: Skis, crampons, axe, glacier kit Approach Notes: Buckle up for a long up and down traverse from the Mount Baker ski area