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Trip: Mt Hood - Devil's Kitchen Headwall Variation 0 Trip Date: 02/18/2020 Trip Report: Climbed a variation to the left of the regular DKHW left ("Variation 1" in Mullee) route on Monday along with CC members Nolan E Arson and kadyakerbob. I'm quite sure this wasn't a FA as it's an obvious line on a popular aspect of the mountain, but as far as I know there are no documented ascents of the route. Makes sense to refer to it as variation 0 following the Mullee numbering. The beginning of the route is currently a mix of exposed rock/rime. It turned out to be a lot steeper than it looked from the bottom. The rime takes good sticks but there are some surprisingly delicate, balance-y moves to move through the rock patches. Above the exposed rocks there's a flat-ish area where it looks like the gully splits into right and left options. The right option (more visible from the crater) didn't really look passable to me but the left had a nice, short, near-vertical step on solid rime. Above this we came out to a small clearing from which we could see climbers on the Hogsback. We went right and followed the narrow, snow filled gullies to where they meet up with the regular DKHW left variation (above the crux). Random Notes: The challenging climbing is all at the bottom of the route (the visible rock and the rime step above it). I don't think the upper portion could get significantly steeper than it is now, though it would be a lot more fun if it had ice instead of deep snow. In current conditions it seems unprotectable. You can put screws in the rime (and maybe rap on them) but there's no way they would hold any kind of fall. If legitimate ice ever forms on the route it would be great, and probably superior to variation 1, as it's longer, steeper, and more sustained. I will definitely check this route again once I know that there is fat ice on variation 1. I'd give the route the typical, meaningless AI3 rating. Right now it's noticeably harder than anything I've encountered on variation 1. The line we took: Some very steep snow in the entrance gully: Short rime fin below the rocks: Bottom part of rocky section: Top part of rocky section: Going left over the rime step: Wide-angle shot of above the rime step. Follow the narrow gully right. Typical deep snow in the gullies: Looking down from where the route joins variation 1. Variation 1 crux is just below and to the left of the central rime mushrooms, we emerged on the right. Gear Notes: Rope, screws, draws, etc., were all good training weight, useless on route. Approach Notes: When I walk it it's deep powder, when I ski it it's chickenheads.

Trip: Stevens Pass - Yodelin Trip Date: 02/17/2020 Trip Report: Just trying to get the *freshie zone* awake again... had a great time out on Yodelin Monday morning and afternoon. 7-12 inches fresh snow over a crust, deeper up high, deep right-side-up drifts of snow in the trees. Excellent skiing. Wishing I could go out and enjoy more before the sun gets to it this week. Let’s hear some more reports! What are you all finding out there? Gear Notes: AT skis Approach Notes: Parking lot was surprisingly only host to a dozen or so vehicles on a holiday? Follow the road cuts up to rolling tree and glade skiing. Steeper terrain but denser trees available to the NE.

The Basic Mountaineering Course is being offered by the Skagit Alpine Club this year between April 8th and June 7th. The objective of the course is to introduce you to the mountains and teach the basics of climbing in the alpine environment. The entire course is run by volunteer members of the club The course is designed to teach the fundamentals of climbing in the alpine environment and provide you the skills necessary to safely travel and camp on snow and glaciers. The course not only introduces the fundamentals of climbing, but also provides an environment and opportunity for team building, trip planning, and building trust with climbing partners. The course consists of several weeks of classroom sessions and field outings. Classroom sessions will be on Wednesday evenings from 6:00 - 9:00 PM. The location of the classes is typically within the city of Burlington. The classroom sessions are accompanied by weekend outings to practice skills. Destinations for weekend outings are not predetermined and will be based on weather, road, and other conditions. The course is set to begin April 8th with the last outing being June 6-7th. The minimum requirements for registering for the Basic Mountaineering Course are: · Must 18 years and older · In good physical conditioning · Available to attend all the classes and outings To sign up for the course, go to the REGISTRATION PAGE. Options for the registration fee are provided once the registration form is submitted. For more information, visit the SAC website