Leaderboard

Trip: Sherpa Balanced Rock - West Ridge Trip Date: 06/15/2019 Trip Report: ***WARNING: This Trip Report contains mega beta spray for free climbing Sherpa Balanced Rock (and will take all the fun out of figuring it out for yourself)*** FA: Dave Mahre and Gene and Bill Prater, 1955 (shoulder stand + 5.7) FFA: Jens Klubberud & Scott Gg, 2006 (5.10c) The epic debate over whether the traditional summit of Sherpa Peak or the Sherpa Balanced Rock is the "true summit" remains legendary. I can tell you that it is true that whether you sit on the "summit" or the balanced rock, your head is surely higher than the other. They are within feet of each other in height. Having stood on both, I still can't tell you which is higher. Someone needs to go out there and shine two laser levels between the high points to find not only the true summit but measure the difference in height (you'd only need a 3ft roll of measuring tape). Still, climbing the Sherpa Balanced Rock is an adventurous and worthy goal since it is just so dang fun! Note: whenever I use the word "summit" in this TR, I am referring to the traditional summit (not the Balanced Rock). Fred Beckey's infamous "shoulder stand" beta seemed way too spicy for my blood. The base would lean at a 45 degree angle over a 5ft deep chasm on a shaky pile of human-made rocks from which the leader would climb on their arched partner and mantle onto a narrow ledge. The free variation is WAY more fun! (However, I'll give it credit that the shoulder stand pictures are probably way more entertaining). First free'd in 2006, it still sees very few ascents each year. From the summit, we made a short rappel down to the scrambly ledges on the south side which leads to the base of the Sherpa Balanced Rock. There may also be a scramble route on the East side of the summit block to avoid having to rappel. We left a 60m fixed line from the rappel anchor to the base of the Balanced Rock. If you want to descend via the West Ridge, you'll need to go back up to the summit and reverse the West Ridge route from there (which is what we did). This meant that we jugged back up our fixed line to get back to the summit on our descent. Picture above is looking up the West Ridge route. Two pictures above are looking back (from base of Balanced Rock) at the fixed line and rappel from the summit. View of the Balanced Rock from the summit. We made a belay anchor at the base which came straight out from under the lower rock. You can see the human-made pile of rocks on the ledge (we belayed from here). If you do the Beckey handstand method, you stand on that pile of rocks and lean wayyyyy over (over the scary gap). The leader then mantles on to the ledge. A fall would be really bad. Once at the pile of rocks, scramble down (climbers) left (South side) to start the free variation. We opted to do a rope toss over the southern horn, since a lead fall would be an ankle-buster at best. From the pile of rocks, toss the rope over and pull it into the wall. I found some beta that said you can place a #1 under the first overhang. I didn't see a good place for a #1 myself, but a #5 or #6 just under the overhang would be perfect if I were to free it ground-up. This is a committing move, but it's trivial with the top rope throw. 5.10c seemed accurate (an easy bouldering move). Grab a right hand hidden undercling/sidepull in the overhang (shown above) and extend left to grab a left hand 3 finger pocket (amazing!) just above the overhang (shown above). Find a critical, little edge for your left foot out and above the roof (shown above). Then, step up with your left foot (committing) and find a high right hand incut crimp (bomber!). Bring your right foot up to the sloping edge (shown above), and reach your left hand for bad crimps and slopes. Match your right foot with your right hand on the bomber incut edge and reach for great jams between the blocks. Mantle up to the ledge. You can then clip the old bolt (which is at head height). I placed a #1 in the crack at my feet between the two blocks in order to back-up the bolt if it failed. The upper block (shown above) is "5.7" if you can reach the jug. The wall overhangs slightly and there is a huge jug if you are 5-10 or taller. I'm 5-7, so the free climbing required tricky crimps to make my way up to the jug. Once at the jug, you have a good right foot and you're home free. I found the upper block MUCH harder than the lower block (for a shorter fellow). You can, of course, pull on the bolt and easily reach the jug no matter how tall you are (easy). For the top anchor, you can sling the top horn (shown above). The existing anchor is an old bolt and a bomber nut with new tat, which we only used for the final rappel. Jugging back up the fixed line to the summit. Enjoy! Gear Notes: #5 or 6 to free it ground-up (or do a rope toss). #1 to protect between the blocks (backup to bolt). Cordalette to sling the summit horn. Approach Notes: Scramble down (southward) from the summit. If you climb the East Ridge, you pass the Balanced Rock on the way to the summit.

Trip: Glacier Peak - Standard - south rib via N. Fork Sauk River Trip Date: 07/7-8/2019 Trip Report: Two day trip up standard route with Abram. Seems about the best time of year. Several small cravasses to step over below Disappointment Peak. Snow conditions were optimal! Long approach and hike out. Go light. Thanks for a great adventure! Gear Notes: helmet, crampons, 30m rope, pickets (not used) Approach Notes: Trail to White Pass and White Creek drainage in good shape and snow free (several down trees, Mackinaw shelter finally collapsed...sad). Foam Creek drainage 95% snow free. Snow remains in upper basins, good boot track. Camp sites at Glacier Gap snow free.

Trip: Mount Thomson - West Ridge Trip Date: 07/13/2019 Trip Report: We left the car from the PCT trailhead at 4:40am. We decided to take the old commonwealth trail to save a mile, which soon had us hiking up the trail to red mountain. After backtracking and getting lost again, we bushwacked up to the PCT. Smooth sailing from there to bumblebee basin. The basin is completely snow free. There is still a bunch of running water in the basin. We climbed talus to the notch at the start of the west ridge, and spent about an hour looking for the base of the climb. We ended up traversing left into some trees at the notch, then went up, then right and up, then left around a ledge. It was weird and I'm sure there's a better way to get there. Set off climbing at 9:40am. The climbing was mostly easy with 5.6 moves, some loose rock, and decent gear. I found the slab to be well protected if one wanted. We climbed the ridge in six pitches with two small scrambling bits, and topped out at the summit at 1:40pm. Visibility was garbage the entire time, and with only brief glimpses of the surrounding environment. We ate lunch, then let a guy who had climbed the east ridge use our rope with a sling harness to descend the 4th class moves at the top of the east ridge. We did two rappels down, down climbed a bit, and did a third rappel. Stupidly lost time here since we took off all our gear after the second rappel, and then decided the third rappel would be safer rather than down climbing. Apparently according to scrambler guy, taking the trail to the skiers left after the first rappel results in easier down climbing. Slowly descended loose trail and scree to the basin. Got back to ridge lake at 4:40pm, filled some water, and got back to the car at 6:30pm with some on/off jogging and taking the old commonwealth trail without getting lost this time. Total time round trip was 13hr 50 minutes. Definitely a long day, but I wouldn't think it's worth camping at the basin just to do this climb unless you're really stoked to camp. There were no other parties on the west ridge, and only one other person on the east ridge. Very enjoyable climb. Basin looking at Thomson: On the slab: Rappelling the 4th class move: Gear Notes: Cams up to #2, nuts, 60m rope Approach Notes: Shortcut works if you don't get lost

Was up there last weekend and the Ladder's future is considerably brighter than poor old Good Food. Very direct (though steep) approach under timber, then that long, scenic rib make for a great outing. Way more sensible and aesthetic than coming up from 39 Mile Camp, as the red Fred suggests. If you want to avoid schwacking entirely, head off the trail just past the major bouldery creek crossing well before Luna camp - the drainage to the right of the route. Follow the timber north of the creek for about 500' past some monster firs and angle left toward the highest ground, avoiding several mossy slabs. If you manage to get confused on this one, you should probably stick to top-roping at the Exits. Cool route, guys!

Here you go,