Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support cc.com.


Supporting Sponsors





Pro Mountain Sports
UL Down Jacket. 7.3 oz

blank
Who's Online
5 registered (JosephH, keenwesh, 3 invisible), 51 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
27479 Members
50 Forums
101004 Topics
1148354 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 118
KaskadskyjKozak 112
JasonG 105
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
wayne 78
AlpineK 73
telemarker 71
G-spotter 57
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#1105398 - 05/28/13 11:09 PM [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013
Ryan Hoover Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/09/12
Posts: 62
TRs: 10 Photos: 215
Trip: Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue

Date: 5/26/2013

Trip Report:
It all started as a weekend trip up to Value Village. We hiked in Saturday and climbed as many routes as we could manage, the place is splitter central. Full Boar alone is well worth the hike!


Full Boar


The Indicator


Mike on his Full Boar Onsight


Cruiser Cracks







During this time, we both noticed a steep crack on a reddish wall NW of us, so on Sunday, we decided to take a look.





What we found, was endless potential. The wall alone will host as many routes as you can squeeze out of it, not to mention everything bigger and better around it. Everything from thin broken cracks, to overhanging off width, the wall has a bit of everything.

The first route we tackled was The Great Divide (#3). We went ground up on the obvious weakness, only to find we were not the first. There was a mangy old bolt that was oddly placed about three quarters the way up. Oh well. The route went at .10-, and was dirty, but still a lot of fun!


The Great Divide

We set some fixed lines over the steeper side of the crag and started cleaning, top roped some variations, and the routes were stellar! They needed some work, so we decided to head back up for the long weekend.


Mike Working on Afro Blue

Unfortunately, the weather was lousy, leading to us get less work done then we had hoped. But we came out with a couple of gems.

I don't expect these routes to ever get any traffic, but Red Mamba (#1) and Afro Blue (#2) are hands down 5 star .11+ climbs, and were likely the only routes we did that have not been previously climbed.

I am not sure who worked here in the past, but given the lack of any development and the approach, we figured we would name the wall and routes. If someone has any other info, let me know.

So, I pulled all the moves, but have yet to snag a clean lead on either Red Mamba or Afro Blue. Mike made easy work of both routes.

As a heads up, you can expect short but safe run outs and burly moves with gear below your feet. These are definite classics, but you will have to work for em! A mix between tips-thin crack and excellent slab and face climbing.

Guillotine L and R are also great solid .10 climbing.

Not many lead pics, but hey, we were climbing in between rain the whole weekend.

Oh, and Rafael, thanks for the guest appearance!

The Trudge Wall

(1) Red Mamba 5.11+ PG ***** - FA Michal Rynkiewicz, Ryan Hoover
(2) Afro Blue 5.11+ PG FA ***** - FA Michal Rynkiewicz, Ryan Hoover
(3) The Great Divide 5.10- *** - FA Unknown
(4/5) The Guillotine L/R 5.10 **** - FA Unknown







Looking down Red Mamba


The Cave Bivy/Belay

Gear Notes:

There is a water source, and the cave will keep 2 dry.

Red Mamba and Afro Blue are 35 Meter Pitches, be EXTRA careful while lowering, The Guillotine routes are not far off. All routes can be topped out with easier climbing. Either rap the tree to Red Mamba's anchors, or walk off.

70 Meter Rope

(1) Red Mamba 5.11+ PG *****
Gear: (2 Each) 00 TCU -.75 C4, Full set of Nuts and Micros. 3 Bolts
At the undercling, you may feel there is no hope for gear, reach out right and place a perfect #7 BD Nut.

(2) Afro Blue 5.11+ PG *****
Gear: (2 Each) 00 TCU -.75 C4 (1 Each) #1 and 3 C4, full set of stoppers and micros. 1 bolt, 4 KB's. Save 2 of your smallest cams for the top!

(3) The Great Divide 5.10- ***
Gear: Doubles to 3 inch's, 1 #4 and 5, full set of stoppers.

(4/5) The Guillotine L/R 5.10 ****
Gear: Doubles to 3 inch's, 1 #4 and 5, full set of stoppers.
*Tread lightly around the Death Block, I tried to set it free with no luck, there fore the left line was only TR'd. We will take care of it the next time we are up there.


Approach Notes:
We took a "new approach" following the creek more or less straight up from the wash out just past 8 mile campground. This was hell,I ended up with bruised ribs.

The correct approach (which we descended) is to park at 8 Mile Rock, head up past Secret Dome, follow cairns staying on the shoulder left of the creek until you hit a overhanging slabby crag. Cross the stream when it seems appropriate and follow to "The Trudge Wall". 3 hours if you are motivated.

The other option, which is likely the best, is to spend one day shredding at Value Village, and take a day trip over to this lovely new crag the next day. 1 hour from Value Village.


Edited by Ryan Hoover (05/28/13 11:15 PM)

Top
Help Support CascadeClimbers

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#1105412 - 05/29/13 09:14 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
telemarker Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 1672
TRs: 71 Photos: 1091
Loc: Wenatchee, WA U.S.A
Cool photos! The Full Boar splitter is compelling. I have to climb that someday. Man that granite looks Delish up there.

I think I remember Ben Stanton talking about climbing around on that wall at some point in his prolific Icicle wanderings. Not sure...
_________________________
"God gave you two eyes, two ears and one mouth. Use each in proportion."

Top
#1105413 - 05/29/13 09:15 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
DRep Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 06/08/07
Posts: 508
TRs: 6 Photos: 62
Loc: Valley of the shadow of crappy...
Yeah Mike! Nice work.

Dave

Top
#1105414 - 05/29/13 09:16 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
Cobrien1125 Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/15/10
Posts: 18
TRs: 3 Photos: 25
Loc: Portland
Guys this is really great! Can't wait for a little exploration, hope not to break a rib.

Top
#1105415 - 05/29/13 09:26 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
blackhead Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/11/08
Posts: 20
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
very cool
Isn't there already a route named Guillotine in the Icicle?

Top
#1105418 - 05/29/13 09:48 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
jrex Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/29/08
Posts: 92
TRs: 12 Photos: 132
Loc: Portland,OR
So awesome....
_________________________
Eat more fast food and watch more TV.

Top
#1105422 - 05/29/13 10:18 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
Ryan Hoover Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/09/12
Posts: 62
TRs: 10 Photos: 215
Hell, I'm sure there is a couple climbs named gullotine in Icicle. We just got lazy with the names, and with the death block it seemed fitting.

There is a lot of truly great looking climbing in the area, including the bigger and badder Great Polish Towers. We will surely be back for more.

Top
#1105424 - 05/29/13 10:31 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1706
TRs: 31 Photos: 407
Loc: leavenworth
That is one well-stocked bivy for being so high above the icicle!

Top
#1105430 - 05/29/13 10:51 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Sol]
Ryan Hoover Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/09/12
Posts: 62
TRs: 10 Photos: 215
And this picture excludes the gallon of beer Mike managed to haul up!

Top
#1105490 - 05/30/13 08:13 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
JensHolsten Offline
member

Registered: 12/17/03
Posts: 191
TRs: 2 Photos: 8
Psyched to climb up there...thx guys

Top
#1105504 - 05/30/13 10:16 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
crazedmaniac Offline
journeyman

Registered: 11/12/05
Posts: 82
TRs: 0 Photos: 29
Loc: n.w. washington
just because it doesn't have a bolt, don't ever assume your the ... 'first'. Way back in the late 70,s and 80,s there was a new way of climbing, because of the new thin removable stuff, other than pitons, that made a 'new' style of climbing called .. free climbing. NOT SHOWING ANY SIGNS OF any one climbing there ... Bob Buckley used to get me to drive all the way over there, just to add one bolt on some route he was working on, before i got him his own hilti, during the late 80,s and early 90,s. This was before he found 'vantage', a really old 'secret' place i used to go to in the mid 70,s to hang glide, or rock climb. He went crazy over there with the bolts, then came the 'guide book' .. then came the .....
looks like your having fun.. that is the most important part!
_________________________
I'm never there
i am all ways
just arriving

Top
#1105505 - 05/30/13 10:19 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
inacan Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/28/05
Posts: 24
TRs: 1 Photos: 30
Full on Badassery!!!

Looks like it gets pretty direct sun. Zat true?

Top
#1105513 - 05/30/13 11:31 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: crazedmaniac]
Ryan Hoover Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/09/12
Posts: 62
TRs: 10 Photos: 215
Hey crazedmaniac. Honestly, if it's been climbed before, it wouldn't bother me a bit. Just trying to spread the good word on some fun climbing. smile

At Inacan - It gets some gooood sun.

Top
#1105590 - 05/31/13 06:51 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
Drederek Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/22/01
Posts: 1086
TRs: 12 Photos: 203
Loc: Oly,WA
Thx for working on these great looking climbs, and especially telling us about them. How would you compare the hike up to say Memorial dome or the crystal cave?
_________________________
"Youth is wasted on the young"

Top
#1105593 - 05/31/13 07:51 AM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
stevetimetravlr Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 07/29/08
Posts: 1729
TRs: 2 Photos: 270
Loc: Washington
Really cool looking area, great TR, thank you. Amazing the Icicle holds so many hidden/secrect areas. Just got to be willing to hike I guess.

Top
#1105624 - 05/31/13 01:45 PM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: telemarker]
rat Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 05/20/01
Posts: 600
TRs: 13 Photos: 17
stanton and cappellini did a fair amount of adventure climbing in that area post-fire. dan and i added a good route up what he called "the coyote" (because you can look over at the rabbit ears) that included an improbably moderate pitch up a spectacular arete near the top. i think the coyote might be the last major tower on the ridge above big dome but am unsure without a photo.

lots of potential up there. thanks for the tr.

Top
#1105627 - 05/31/13 02:10 PM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
dkatz12090 Offline
n00b

Registered: 08/29/10
Posts: 36
TRs: 0 Photos: 10
Loc: Portland, OR
New to the area and would love to climb at Value Village but can't seem any info on it anywhere? Is there a map, list of climbs?

Thanks everyone!

Top
#1105630 - 05/31/13 02:23 PM Re: [TR] Icicle Creek - The Trudge Wall - New Routes - Red Mamba - Afro Blue 5/26/2013 [Re: Ryan Hoover]
dkatz12090 Offline
n00b

Registered: 08/29/10
Posts: 36
TRs: 0 Photos: 10
Loc: Portland, OR
New to the area and would love to climb at Value Village but can't seem any info on it anywhere? Is there a map, list of climbs?

Thanks everyone!

Top



Moderator:  mattp, minx, To_The_Top 
© 2000-10 cascadeclimbers.com · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top