Trip: Beacon Rawk - Jensen's Rimjob (5.8 C2 (5.12?) III - 5 pitches)

Date: 11/23/2008

Trip Report:
do you have a shit-ton of big-gear lying 'round the house and no clue where to put it to use? then here's the route for you!

inside the vortex today - dry-heaved and almost blew-chunks all over myself after getting a lung-full of lichen

denalidave = patient belayer, here pimped out w/ all our colorful shit



we skipped the optional hard pitch to get to the notch - climbing the original first pitch in hurricane force winds was challenge enough

cool weather - is that st. peters across the way?

the wind made for trippy waves

the .11a finger crack at the start of pitch 3 - did it w/ aiders this time - note the hurricane carrying off my etriers - spent most of the day cursing and trying to reclaim them

can't say that i'm the first to have climbed the route i'm dubbing "jensen's rimjob," but there's no history or route name in the olson guide - it's a fun, aid-tacular optional end to jensen's ridge that ultimately returns to the nothc a half pitch below the trail - we used all the big gear we brought - was hoping ot stick to the left, wide chimney the whole way, but was forced right - eventually had to zig-zag back left to avoid giant stacked block death land - veeeery overhanging!




dusk fell as we topped out the last technical pitch and scrambled up to the trail - venus and jupiter approach - brilliant, blustery day


Gear Notes:
your menu of big gear
1 #6
2 #5
2 #4
1 #3.5
2 #3
3 #2
smaller shit
2 #1
2 .75
3 .5
3 yellow alien
2 green alien
1 blue alien
couple big nuts

camels

Approach Notes:
the old reliable

- Looks like they are definitely required for this route

Looks like your standard by normal Ivan fuck fest of lichen and scary rocks. So the pretty line to the right was not so pretty once you headed up it, huh?

it was a pleasant diversion from the big cam-defying funky crack/chimney, and when it ended in nastiness, i was able to lean way out and get a #4 back into the left system and follow it up - was dismayed at first to think i wouldn't be able to get back to the jensen's notch (the rimjob spits you out in this very funky and cool cave, painted in this thick wild orange, small-grained lichen) and have to make a sketchy anchor, but luckily a small face crack and some decent chimney climbing got me back to the happy place

Why is this not in spray?

Because it's a trip report. There's actually a special section for them, which is why he posted it there. Did you know there is a climbing forum, too?

LOL!

Nice Ivan!

I love trip reports. I love looking at the pictures....but can we call a spade a spade please. A trip report is nothing but spray. "Hey....look at what I climbed this weekend"! Is it not spray to talk about yourself? Even if it’s cool and people like it? I think so…….

Do you not notice a difference when you go to spray and peruse those posts?

Everyone else does. Calling it spray implys that somehow this post is a bad thing despite you saying that you like it.

Consider this: the rest of us want it just the way it is.

I disagree. Why are you saying spray is bad? I dont think so. Spray is the reason alot of folks keep coming back to cc.com. Spray is good. Trip reports are even better. But, I believe trip reports to be spray. In its purest form.

Lets get it straight. I LOVE TRIP REPORTS.

and, straightly, other folks love it when trip reports are spray-free

With that line of thinking, most of the forums should just be called spray, spray and more spray... Granted, Ivan does a TR from every trip to the bathroom and back but I think this one is still in the right category. Maybe they can give Ivan his own forum so as not to upset the boner? We can call it Epic Ivan's Trippin-Spray-Fest.

to desist from spray for a member, can someone confirm if that is st peters all angelic in the fall sun?

How can you have a spray free trip report when reporting your climbing with-in itself is spraying in its purist form? Once again….dont get me wrong….I have almost come to rely on Ivans trip reports for what beacon still looks like….but its just spray. I don’t see how you don’t see that…… If I showed up at Jims house for movie night and talked about all the climbs I did that day with pictures….you guys would tell me to quit SPRAYING and STFU…..what is the difference? So if you post on CC.com its not spray?

On a side note. Ivan…I have enjoyed all your trip reports and pictures. Its super good spray…..I love spray.

i think the obvious one above shadow line is Katanai (sp?) Rock. if so, dome would be beyond & probably obscured by haze.

Katanai from west:

It wasn't that windy out there!

OK, it was...

I spent my day running aid laps up the first half of Free for Some, then huddling behind a big rock, snickers at Ivan's suffering. One of those days where you hands and legs are numb, but your shirt is soaked in sweat.

Good times.

ivan, the second pitch of psychic wound is a kinda fun aid pitch

i thought psychic wound ended at the dutchman anchor? i did the upper pitch of the dutchman this summer.

TR ADDENUM:

unmentioned in the paltry text above was da epic losing of da extra set of etriers at the top of pitch 4 - awkward reach down to unclip the last big cam when going free into the chamber below the last bolt anchor - somehow i unclipped the biner from my daisy chain and the whole works was lost to the tempest - did the rim-job w/ just a single pair, which detracted from da sickness

returned in the gloaming 2night w/ miker (figured, since i'd borrowed 'em from him, he might as well go find where i lost 'em!) - totally mismangled head moment - lost and schwacking through the dripping bush - wandered out onto the talus and down virginal thick carpets of lush moss, interspersed w/ pristine beer and water bottles cast off from the west side trail - how foolish to hope to find the etriers in this wasteland, but holy-fuck, is that them hanging of the lower branches of the giant tree w/ the bizarre park sign direclty bolted into the living bark, declaring "no climbing!?!" (well, okay, i'll be certain not to climb on THAT tree)

great views of jensen's from down there - The Brethern must reclaim those routes - jeff thomas put in a start this summer, but much more is needed - then climb them while someone's taking pix

thought about posting a seperate TR for the circumnav w/ made by bashing down through the thorns and oak back up to the traintrack, but figured i shouldn't make a move on tvash just yet

made a day of it by pushing on to denalidaves to swip miker's jug back from the snarling dog of death!

So does your last post imply you did indeed found them? I'm sure you spent an hour or three hunting down my nut tool too, right? Be careful, that dog might lick you to death!

found'em'indeed dave - and still connected to the same biner, so i don't for the life of me understand how you only saw a biner flyign through the air, and not the 2 kites attached to them

Holy miracle Batman, I'm not sure what I saw flying by but it was moving fast... I can't believe you stumbled upon them in the dark. Maybe your Karma is not nearly as bad as I'd predicted?