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About genepires

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999


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  1. question "Heat Exchanger" pots with XGK?

    Did a test comparing regular pot to a jet boil pot on a non jet boil stove both pots had 2 cups water and same stove setting. Non jetboil pot has a little bit bigger base area. I took the insulator off the jet boil pot cause I thought that stove heat may melt it. time to rolling boil for jet boil pot was 4 minutes time for rolling boil on a regular pot was 4.5 minutes
  2. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    yeah. somewhere in patagonia actually. But I had a friend who got nailed by a microwave sized rock at lower town wall index. Had to get 3 feet of his intestines taken out because of the rupture and bleeding. luckily he had a grown man small pot belly to absorb some of the forces. A skinny little sport climber would have been cut in half. If it hit his head, a helmet would have done nothing but make a better casket viewing.
  3. question "Heat Exchanger" pots with XGK?

    interesting question. I never tried it but my thought is that it would help but not much. That is because with the stove it was meant for sits up inside the bottom of the pot. This keeps heat from leaking out so bad. If you put these pots on a regular stove, the heat source can still leak out the sides. In fact I would worry about the leaking heat melting those plasticy handles on the side. if someone owns one of these, a side by side comparison would be interesting. Similar sized pot with same amount of water and measure for time to boil. I have a really old jetboil and if i can remember, I will try it out this weekend. side note. those pots are pricey. $100?
  4. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    You are absolutely right. There must be an infinite amount of possibilities / situations that I left out like -some days you do everything right and get dealt a supreme bad luck day. i have a friend of a friend whose partner died right in front of him while approaching a alpine rock climb. Both was wearing a helmet but a single random falling rock killed his partner.still.
  5. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    Well I guess in hindsight it Ian always easy to see the bad judgement in accident situations. But it seems like there are usually obvious in hindsight lapses in decision making tha lead to accidents. Maybe not 99% but prolly real close. Things like not wearing helmet, continueiing upwards into bad weather, not protecting a climb well enough, etc. i feel like you may be putting more into what bob said than he was intending? my take of what bob says is that -some days you do everything right and you have good luck and give a bunch of high fives -some days you do everything right and get dealt a bad luck and you go home with a good story -some days you make a bad decision and get some good luck and maybe you learn a lesson, maybe not -some days you make a bad decision and get some bad luck and you get a epic story to tell -some days you make several bad choices and no amount of good luck will overcome it. End of game!
  6. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    I guess I am lazy and inviting trouble. or maybe I just require a highly accurate data set to come up with a number. My training was in applied math and not statistics. Not comfortablable with unknowns left dangling. You may be required to make inferences with less than complete data and be ok with possible correct or close or completely wrong conclusions. You do what you must with what you got. But I don’t like to go there. If I can’t prove it, I prolly won’t say it.
  7. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    well of course it would be near impossible to make a even half decent number, I think that if one looks through any or all of the Accidents in North America Mountaineering, pretty much all of them detail the lack of judgement that lead to the accident. I don't really want to speak for Bob, but I can remember a lot of bad decisions were good luck prevented me from a true accident. And one time were bad decision and lack of good luck (bad luck?) were it went bad. In that case though, good luck prevented me from death so I guess it is all good luck too? my head hurts.
  8. Your Favorite Spring Steep Snow Climbs?

    yeah in select climb but n face shuksan is great steep snow climb in spring. i guess you may need to define what a steep snow climb means? how steep? and how long? n face maude is another. even in summer time. when the north cascade hwy gets open, there are plenty of nice snow gulleys to go up. One being the gulley that splits the north side of whistler peak. it is real obvious when climbing in the liberty bell group. not sure the name of the route on whistler as I don't have my guidebook here. But it is a real nice snow climb to the ridgeline, then a small bit of manky rock (3rd class) to the main face and summit. we descended the same way up. also, if looking for smaller objectives, I had good luck just going into snoq pass and wandering around till you find something worth doing. Seem to remember there being some gulleys in pineapple basin above source lake. North facing side of course. just get off these spring snow climbs before the sun beats down on the snow pack. Big wet point release slides came down on the north couloir of colchuck on us and it was not even late in day but the sun was beating on this one small slab all morning.
  9. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    I think if you look at the total number of solo climbs where they came back safe (quit possibly thousands for those two) vs the number of hard alpine climbs before succumbing to the mountains, then soloing rock climbs looks "safer". for them anyways. I would die soloing a 5.9.
  10. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    my goal was never to come up with a actual number to frighten people but to simply make us aware of how something a small as 1% (which most people would call "safe") as being dangerous over time and to encourage a more conservative methodology to rappels. (which I did become a victim of once) I guess the same idea can apply to alpine climbs too.
  11. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    there are 2 (at least) problems with using binomial dist 1- that the probability for all trials must stay the same. You see it in the p^k part. If the event is for death, then obviously the prob of death can not stay the same after a preceeding death. it goes to 100% 2- the overall probablility is the sum of every possible event combination. That is seen in the (n!/(k!*(n-k)!) part. so for k=1 in 10 trials, there is only 10 ways to arrange 1 out of 10. but for k=2, there are 45 ways to get pairs out of 10 trials. once again, how to you get 2 deaths? Well, the natural question is just pick k=1 right? there is a problem with that too. getting to basic part of binomial dist is that P(0) + P(1) + P(2) + P(3) + ........ P(n-1) + P(n) = 1 there is no getting around this when you figure out P(1) for small amount of trials it looks good but when n gets large, the prob levels out and actually decreases slightly. what is happening is that the other P(other than 1) starts to accumulate and amount to a significant amount. It becomes unlikely to have just 1 event and more likely to get 2 or more. Once again, how to you die 4 times? well the next logical step is to say just look at P(0) and subtract that from 1. Same problem as above. we are applying the binomial distribution method to something that is not binomial. it requires a distribution that is not binomial and I have no idea how to do that. My meager BS math degree didn't go that far in probability. But I know enough to know I don't know enough.
  12. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    it may not be fun but is this the media that promotes risky behavior? I blame it all on Red Bull and their 10,000 hours of bad ass videos I have wasted time on. I wonder if looking at heuristic traps as a way to evaluate whether we are taking risk for the wrong reasons? Usually for avalanche decision but it may apply to climbing in general with a little tweeking. For those not familiar, the way to remember is FACETS F familiarity, we may take on more risk in familiar locations A acceptance, impress others in group. C consistency, being stubborn and not changing plans when new info arises E expert halo, assuming that someone else with more experience will make the right choices. T first tracks, more about scarsity of routes or terrain. Maybe when all the well protected trad lines are full, one may jump on a x rated route S social acceptance
  13. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    Agreed but this may be the media that makes hero’s of excessive dangerous actors? The question is, do these kinds of video promote regular folk to pursue as well? Does it encourage skilled climbers to go too far too often? I kinda don’t think so but I suppose if only 1% were influenced, then we would have thousands of people doing crazy shite.
  14. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    is this the applause of risk Bob speaks off. that is some cray cray ski/boarding
  15. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    you actually can't use that calculator that Rad links to as it allows for all possible combinations. In the context of rappelling accidents, you may get a couple accidents if lucky but definately not to the extent that the binomial prob method used in that calculator. For example, the prob of an accident in ALL trials is added into the mix. hardly realistic. the real solution is quit difficult to figure out with my meager math skills. but the calc does show a improvement of 1% vs .1%, 100% of failure over time vs 65% failure over time. fun times talking about death.