Plaidman Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 (edited) Trip: The Steeple - Coethedral Area - Oregon - Beckey Route Date: 6/10/2012 Trip Report: The Empress of Adventure and I got the second ascent of the Beckey Route on The Steeple today. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/beckey-route/107617226 After a mishap with some bear scat. Her highness stuck her knee right into the crap. Now we know the answer to the question. Does a bear shit in the woods. The answer is yes. She asked me "Have you ever put your knee in bear crap?" I think I will not add that one to the bucket list. From the base I fixed lines for her Highness to make the scramble up easier for her. She belayed me across the snow field and up into the gully. I fixed the line again and set up a semi hanging belay. She belayed me through the muddy gully. It is probably a lot easier when it is dry. Good thing I had my moss ax. It was sketchy for sure. Then I got to the notch on the backside of The Steeple where the real climbing starts. I slung knobs to the top and brought her highness up. Took loads of pictures and got out of there with 3 raps off the top. There are two bolted rap anchors. You really need two ropes to rap off. We had a 70 m. rope and couldn't make it to the second rap so we added a rap off another tree on climbers right. Good day and good times. Awesome weather. Video from the adventure Gear Notes: Lots of 48" slings and biners. I took 18 slings and two cordeletts. Approach Notes: Straight up the right side from the north face. Stay next to The Steeple then take a left into the hidden gully to the notch. Edited June 11, 2012 by Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
123tom Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 nice climb looks a little bushy but still cool, fixing lines for the missus is always good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 I saw that video of your start of the ground up first ascent of your new route on the North Face. Damned proud and bold stuff Scotty! The video sucked except for the parts of it where you are in the frame actually climbing, and that was the shit right there. You climb right through a little water fall at the start dancing on the knobs with yer rope running behind you ...I'm sitting watching it shivering...fear? Cold? Both perhaps. I tried to send the vid down to Adam and he couldn't see it, but I described it and he said pretty much what I just said above. We argued over the length of the route once you guys finish it. He's pretty sure it's going to be 400 feet of knobjobaliciouness, I'm thinking 250-300', but I'm sure you'll let me know once you finish it. Miker photo below of the 2 half crazed warrior clansmen, the Mcdonald and the Peterson clans united. Rick McDonald (left) Scott Peterson (right). It's cool that you named it after your late buddy and climbing mentor as well. "Brother Mike". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted June 13, 2012 Author Share Posted June 13, 2012 I will make a new video. Thanks dude. It's gonna be a good one. Here's to you "Brother Mike". This route will be a memorial to a fallen climber friend of mine. You can read about him and the accident that took his life on my blog: Why the route is called "Brother Mike" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Nice! Scotts looking for a partner to finish this route this weekend. Saturday is suppose to be spectacular weather. My shoulders out or I'd be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teh Phuzzy Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Looks like there are a few of us heading out that way in the morn. I bet we'll see him. Sounds like we might a a three-sort-of-some so one of us can act all stoney and belay for him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Nice.....where is this place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Nice.....where is this place? Click this Kevin: http://mapper.acme.com/ Once that's up, copy this: N 45.07837 W 122.11870 and paste it in the lower right hand corner to the left of the button that says "find". Then click "find". That's the location. On the upper right is a toolbar. I've found that Hybrid and Topo are a great way to perv out on the next weekend or years adventures while at work. The upper left hand corner has a handy zoom in or out feature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 enjoyed my first trip out there just fine - better than sex, coecocounut bridge, dragonspine, excalibur, trench warfare n' rad/plaid/glad - the scruffy approach trail is great prep for the routes! great work there bill, and my apologizes for breaking one of the 2 reading room chairs w/ my gargantuan ass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 (edited) Sure was fun hanging out with you guys last night. I got 3 bolts of glory on my route. Now I am a bit more organized. I think the route may go faster now. I got to a blank section where I had to resort to hooks. It was quite stimulating on aid solo. Aid Solo - 3 bolts of glory. Edited June 18, 2012 by Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 we briefly considered muscling some of them giant boulders into the road to delay yer departure never could make out your ant-sized ass all the way over there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 I am short. Kinda like a midget but different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 Here are some pics from today. Some are of the DEEP chimney to the left of my route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 enjoyed my first trip out there just fine - better than sex, coecocounut bridge, dragonspine, excalibur, trench warfare n' rad/plaid/glad - the scruffy approach trail is great prep for the routes! great work there bill, and my apologizes for breaking one of the 2 reading room chairs w/ my gargantuan ass No trip report? No worries. Chairs come and go. My brother said that when I die, he'll cement a real nice bench in down there with a memorial plaque on it something like Danny Wrights out at Smith Rock. Some favorite questionable people sitting in some (formerly) favorite questionable chairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 No trip report? leaving for the valley in a hair more than 24 hours n' trying to finish up the school year too so not much time to choke my muse's chicken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) Bill - Here's my trip report. I went up, put in 3 more bolts (solo), after some scary hook moves so I could get into the top step of my aiders, I came back down. I cleared the road of rocks that had slid into the road near the waterfall and all the snow is melted off the road. So now it is a 10 min walk from the base of The Steeple back to the truck. I also hacked some devils club down, with my moss ax, on the way up and down from The Steeple. By the end of the summer it should be a fairly casual walk up to the climbs up there. Edited June 19, 2012 by Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Here is my new high point. Top step of my aiders on every bolt. Hanging off knobs to get the drilling done. Top step is not saying much, as I am fairly short. We will see how well I did when it is finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Nice solo effort. Takes stones to head up to that place alone and get off the ground, especially on a new line. Anyway, it's too early for everyone to start bitching so I wouldn't worry over that just yet. Alternatively, you could wait till it warms up or stops raining too. It would be more fun. Going to wet up there this weekend. http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=45.11230010229608&lon=-122.21026618033648&site=pqr&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 I got an unexpected day off tomorrow. Thurs. So I will be up at 4 am to get an early start. I will have to see how far I get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 (edited) Exciting day on "Brother Mike" route. I had to drill another hole for the first bolt when my new brush got stuck while hanging on two hooks. After drilling the new hole, pounding in the bolt and torquing the bolt to 50 psi, I clipped it and not 30 secs later the hooks blew. Great way to get started. Only 4 1/2 new bolts, but the route is shaping up. Can hardly wait to free climb it. Should have the first pitch in this weekend. Will post video soon. Camera crapped out. Edited June 22, 2012 by Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 (edited) Video from Thursday Edited June 22, 2012 by Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 Here is a pic of the rap off the top of The Steeple. Need double ropes. On the left of the picture you can see my less than awesome progress on my route "Brother Mike". Damn! I have a long way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Cold One, The Empress of Adventure and I went up and I got 6 more bolts up on the route. I am almost at a belay ledge. Not too much further now. I hope the next pitch goes easier. Ground up is kicking my ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 (edited) Two more pics from the belayer of the year. Photo below. I quit before the drill did, but I did burn out two belayers. Edited July 9, 2012 by Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Since I changed my sig line to be a photo, I've come to realize you posted too many shots of the same thing:-0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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