[TR] Snow Lakes - Unknown ice line 12/8/2011

[Cornfed]

Trip: Snow Lakes - Unknown ice line

 

Date: 12/8/2011

 

Trip Report:

Jeff and I were gunning to find something that was "IN" and thought Alpental Valley would be our best bet, and we didn't want to drive all the way to Leavenworth to get shut out. We figured Source Lake Line or Flow Reversal might be in. Source Lake Line was as thin as it looked in the photos you've all seen, so we went over to check out Flow Reversal. We made it right to the base, and it looked thick enough, but with strong sunshine, there was a lot of material coming down. It didn't seem intelligent to go up when there was so much coming down and lots of the ice was detached from the rock. Two strikes against us.

 

I told Jeff that I saw a picture the year before of some dudes climbing a line off Snow Lake. It was only 10am, and we were both game to explore a bit, and moving around the back-country on foot is about as easy as it gets for Alpental Valley right now.

 

As soon as we got to the lake, the temps dropped about 15 degrees - it felt like Canada compared to the sunny Alpental Valley side. We walked the length of the lake looking for the best possible line. There were several drips and drabs, but one seemed to be clearly the best line. This picture was taken after our climb from across Snow Lake. The major gulley in the cliff face has several possible ice lines; only one of which looked like it had enough continuous ice to make a climb out of it. The ice line is about 100 meters above the lake on the left side.

 

 

 

What we found was about 30 meters of pretty decent water ice 3 that connected to another 30 meters of steepish show and snice that ended at a couple of small trees on a flat bench. The bench is to the left at the top of the climb and it takes a full 60 meters of rope to reach the two small trees.

 

 

The climb was about 80 degrees for the 30 meters, and varied from very thin ice to ice that was thick enough to take 16 and 19 cm screws. It was also wet/mushy in places so it is still building, which is promising.

 

The crux move is near the top of the steep section where a bulge has to be overcome to reach the 60-70 degree snow slope above which is run out to reach the ledge above but fairly secure feeling.

 

Sorry that I forgot to bring a real camera, but thought this at least documents the climb. We were thinking that during most winter conditions, this climb is either covered in snow, or the avy danger of this steep slope makes this off limits. We also know this climb isn't in the ice climbing book. Has anyone ever climbed this route?

 

It will be good as long as the cold weather continues.

 

We moved the belay to a larger tree (shown here) for our repel and tied a red sling to a tree to repel. Didn't see any evidence of slings or repel gear from prior ascents, but it could have been under some snow as getting to this large tree was tricky!

 

 

You have to work your way to the uphill side on the repel to have enough rope. If you sling your ropes over a large rock you get a bit of a free hang repel right down to the belay platform!

 

Would love to hear of others getting back here before the snow starts again.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Gear notes: 2-60 meter ropes and about 8 ice screws. You probably could place a picket on the upper slope to avoid such a long run-out.

 

Approach Notes:

Approach is straight-forward. Go up and over the Snow Lake divide and down to Snow Lake. Hang a left and walk about half way down to the other end.

[obwan]

Awesome find and good trip report! You might have a first ascent.

[wayne]

I soloed it a couple of winters back. There is a Snow Troopers video of it in the archives, Very fun route,probably been done many times I am sure over several decades. Poor style to leave slings around trees at routes that dont get much traffic,in this case, it should have rings. Quality, reliable and fun route.

[jpark42]

I think I've done this line as well, last year I believe. Though I don't think it gets done that often because it get's buried by snow pretty quickly.

 

PS: Good job getting after it. Sounds like a good pitch o climbing

Edited December 12, 2011 by jpark42

[keenwesh]

I soloed it a couple of winters back. There is a Snow Troopers video of it in the archives, Very fun route,probably been done many times I am sure over several decades. Poor style to leave slings around trees at routes that dont get much traffic,in this case, it should have rings. Quality, reliable and fun route.

 

whats wrong with just slings? the trees above G1 here in hyalite don't have rings and are just used to rap off of. if people are top roping they'll either put some of their own biners on the slings or sling the trees with their own gear. please enlighten me

 

BTW the big sleep is in fat right now. Not sure if you've done it yet wayne but it looks awesome. I had enough of a struggle leading 30 feet of steep ice, I think I'll wait a bit before tackling that beast.

[StephanieSavage]

Thanks for the great TR. Imran, Robb, and I climbed this route yesterday. Super fun! The line was still in and stable yesterday. It had to be in the 20's up there, and in the shade all day. Imran used only one 19 screw, but 16's and the shorter ones (can't remember the length) went in well. There are several other lines we passed on the way above Snow Lake that look climbable now, but thinner than this line.

The approach is still a great boot pack, although some areas of snow on the north-facing slope above Snow Lake have stayed cold and would have been fun to ski (where there isn't any avy debris). We rappelled from the same trees, and your slings with two 60 meter ropes.

 

 

One line we saw on the approach

 

Imran at the base of the route we climbed.

 

View of Chair from the approach saddle above Snow Lake

[tvashtarkatena]

Was it this line?