Favorite leader packs?

[CapitalNathan]

Well since my backpack was nabbed out of the back of my car today I'm on the hunt for a replacement. I'm looking for a 20ish liter pack that can hold my harness and rack/rope on for the approach and my shoes, water, food and jacket while climbing. I was previously rocking an older model of the Arcteryx Cierzo and it did everything I wanted it to.

 

Is something like the Cilogear 20L Worksack or the updated Cierzo worth the extra bucks over an REI flash pack?

[genepires]

I used to have a flash pack but am not fond of the mesh shoulder straps. maybe they are different now.

 

 

[jakedouglas]

I agree that the shoulder straps on the Flash would be miserable for carrying the weight of rope and rack for more than a very short distance.

[Giles]

Folks tend to have their own wants and needs when it comes to these things... But my favorite (and I've used many different packs of this size over the years) is the Patagonia Linked 16. Here are my reasons -

 

- I like that it has a rope strap on the top

- I like that it has an outside zip pocket

- The shape is is not as long as some other packs of this size so it doesn't hang too low (of particular importance if you, or your partner, is small/short)

- durable

- great size for long rock routes. We generally use it as a followers pack and it fits shoes, food, water, insulating layer, perfectly for two.

[layton]

bd magnum

[bargainhunter]

Metolius Mescalito

[Linnaeus]

The REI flash will work for your uses. The Cierzo is a nicer pack. I agree with the other posters that the shoulder straps are the weakest part of the pack design. I have considered taking the straps off an older TNF pack and swapping them onto my Flash18, but there are always more pressing projects. But, once climbing the straps have worked OK for me. If they are uncomfortable while climbing that means there is too much in the pack, at least for the routes I commonly do (5.7-5.9 multipitch). For the approach, I would carry the rope 'backpack' style next to or on top of the pack, so that the extra weight isn't through the straps.

 

I don't have either, but my general impression is that the BD Speed 22 is also a good option, as are the older Nozones. Arc'Teryx Fly and Black Diamond BB or Bullet have also been used by my partners and have seemed nice. Depends on the approach/climbing ratio.