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[TR] Mt. Hood - DKH/Eliot/Leutholds Linkup 4/16/2016


bedellympian
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Trip: Mt. Hood - DKH/Eliot/Leutholds Linkup

 

Date: 4/16/2016

 

Trip Report:

What I did:

-left Timberline at 5:50am, skinned up S-Side to bottom of Devil's Kitchen Headwall (~2hrs)

-put skis on my pack and soloed DKH left most variation w/ left exit, tagged summit and traversed summit ridge to the West -stashed skis at West end of summit ridge and downclimbed Sunshine route to just above Eliot Glacier

-traversed snow above Eliot 'schrund until I saw a good ice flow, soloed to top of Eliot Headwall following ice and neve (almost identical to the R variation marked in Mt. Hood Climber's Guide except for fun dihedral starting L of route)

-tagged summit and traversed ridge back to skis, clipped into skis on summit ridge, skied Leutholds couloir to Reid Glacier

-traversed Reid glacier and booted up to Illumination Saddle, skied back to Timberline, at car by 11:45 (~5:55 car-car)

 

Conditions:

-DKH is super easy right now, a little wallowing getting up into the couloir and then its mostly 40-50deg neve with one ~10ft step of real ice

-Eliot is looking good, many tantalizing options, lower routes that go up the North Face Cleaver look like they are more snow than ice right now

-Leutholds is windpacked up top (changing fast I'm sure), breakable crust on powder down low (also will change, afternoons might be good if its not too warm)

 

Overall: a fun morning on Oregon's most accessible alpine crag.

 

Pics... I'll try post some soon, first pitch on Eliot was SOOO GOOD! :)...

 

Gear Notes:

dress socks from work actually weren't bad in the ski boots, could have done without that second liter of water I carried all morning

 

Approach Notes:

skins are the ticket right now!

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looking up at the only real ice step on DKH:

photo_146.JPG

 

Eliot Headwall beta pics:

photo_249.JPG

 

photo_332.JPG

 

photo_426.JPG

 

photo_515.JPG

 

first ice pitch on Eliot, hero swings the whole way

photo_66.JPG

 

looking up the face from the top of the corner pitch, I went to the obvious white line at the top left

photo_74.JPG

 

the exit pitch up close, deceptively steep but not very long

photo_83.JPG

 

dropping into Leutholds, tracks from parties who had come up earlier in the day

photo_93.JPG

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We should have held a CC.com pub club event up there. My wife and I were camped at I-saddle and heard Catstack and MTHorman go by. We ran into Bedell on the Queen's chair.

 

Awesome link-up! I think that might be the best approach to the Eliot. Leuthold might be OK too, a little more distance, a little less vert.

 

Catstack - thanks for the booter on Luethold!! Definitely made things a little easier for us in the snow. We decided to carry everything over for "training" and appreciated the tracks.

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