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Everything posted by catstack

  1. I'm looking to do some climbs in either area (rock, snow, or ice). I can lead 5.8 trad and WI3. I can follow .11 though.
  2. Has anyone been up that way in the past week or so? I'm looking to climb Vesper and the Mile High Club route that's near by. Is it too early in the season for these routes?
  3. Approach condition for Vesper Peak

    Thanks for the suggestions. I think the plan is to do some single pitch stuff in Leavenworth on Saturday and then get up Condorphamine Addiction on Sunday.
  4. Approach condition for Vesper Peak

    oops, I was looking at the Cascade Rock book and noticed it mentioned June as the start of the season. Any suggestions for similar climbs that would be in season?
  5. Trip: Mt. Hood - Leuthold Couloir Date: 4/16/2016 Trip Report: I made my way up to palmer in some decently firm snow. At this point I started to cut over towards Illumination Saddle. Here I started to hit some softer snow. I made it to the saddle and popped on over. The Reid Glacier was looking pretty chill, the only opening that I could see was the bergschrund. I was doing a good bit of snow swimming the whole way across the Reid, slowed me down big time. Eventually I made it to the couloir and was relived the snow was more firm. The hourglass section was really mellow. The sun was starting to come up at this point. There really wasn't much ice fall while I was going though. I kept going up till I made it to the Queen's Chair. I hung out here for a bit to take in the views. Then I kept moving up till I got to the summit ridge. I then down climbed the mazama chute (I think?). I really need to learn to ski... Gear Notes: pretty standard Approach Notes: I tried to keep as much elevation as I could on the Reid.
  6. [TR] Mt. Hood - Leuthold Couloir 4/16/2016

    pioneerian - thanks! The lens is a Nikon 20m 1.8. The night shots had the following setting: ISO 1600, f1.8, and a 30 second exposure
  7. [TR] Mt. Hood - Leuthold Couloir 4/16/2016

    water - the night shots were taken with a nikon d610. The others were both with the nikon and iphone.
  8. [TR] Mt. Hood - DKH/Eliot/Leutholds Linkup 4/16/2016

    diepj - glad someone could get some benefit from that effort hah.
  9. [TR] Mt. Hood - DKH/Eliot/Leutholds Linkup 4/16/2016

    Damn, that's awesome. I spoke to you briefly coming up Leuthold, I was wondering where you ended up going.
  10. Trip: Mt. Hood - Devil's Kitchen Headwall Variation 2 Date: 1/25/2016 Trip Report: Around 12:30am, Sean DaCosta and myself left Portland and made our way to Timberline. We roll in around 2am, got ready and left for the slog by 2:30am The full moon gave plenty of light so headlamps weren't needed We saw a party heading West towards Illumination Saddle, later we found out they climbed the Reid Headwall. We strolled into the Devil's Kitchen just before sunrise. Time to enjoy the views for a bit, eat some cold food, and get the gear ready. We decided to go with the second variation. Looking from climbers left it would be the second chute. Entering the chute the snow steepens a good bit till you hit the first ice pitch. It seemed like WI2 and in pretty good shape. I was able to find a few ice screw placements that seemed decent. The chute eventually split, I took a look at the left side and that dead-ended. Sean took lead and started up the right side. This pitch was a little steeper but not much, The awesome thing about it was that you have to climb / crawl through a very narrow section 3/4 enclosed with rime ice. Once you get through that you pop out on the ridge. From here we climbed some crusty ice up a bit and started the Wy'East traverse. I'm really not sure what you're "supposed" to do in this section. We stayed lower which had more exposure but seemed more manageable. I saw someone climb up and over this section a few weeks back instead of doing what we did. Once we got through the traverse we followed the ridge up to the summit. There was a good bit of wind-blown powder on this side. We did a fair bit of swimming through this section. From the summit we down climbed the old chute and made our way back. Gear Notes: 55m rope 6 ice screws 3 pickets
  11. Day was getting late and bad weather rolled in. We left two pickets at the top of the far right gully. If anyone happens to stroll on by and can recover the gear. I can give a nice reward for your troubles. They will probably be covered up by the next time someone goes though.
  12. [TR] Mt. Hood - North Face - direct 11/29/2015

    thanks for TR and photos!
  13. Trip: Mt. Hood - South Side - Pearly Gates Date: 11/29/2015 Trip Report: A little late writing up this TR but suppose someone might get some use out of it still. I drove up to Timberline from Portland around 10pm. I planned to get a few hours of sleep in the car and head out around 3:30am. The wind was pretty intense when I rolled into the parking lot. The car was rocking back and forth from the guest and falling asleep took longer than I expected. The alarm went off and sure enough the big wind was still around. I figured it would calm down once I got up near the Steele Cliffs. I left the parking lot around 4am and started to work my way up. The wind was relentless. Every Once in a while a big enough guest would come along and push me down. Besides the wind the conditions were great. Crunchy packed snow the whole way up. Once I made it up to the Steele Cliffs the wind calmed down completely. The sun was rising up and made for killer views as usual. A few people were a head of me and plenty more coming up from behind. I got up to the top of the Hogsback and decided to go up through the Pearly Gates. The bergschrund that's usually hanging around this area was filled in for the most part. You could still see that it was there though. The angle grew stepper and I was getting great purchase with each step. The first half of this is just a step snow climb through the chute. Around the half way point the angle increases a bit and the snow starts to turn into ice. The crux was an ice step like feature that I had to mantle and kick my way up. The ice was super solid and I had a blast climbing up. After this it turns back into a step snow climb up to the summit. I had the summit to myself. I ate a burrito. After a bit I made my way over to the Mazama chute to head on down. Everyone I saw going up was going up this chute. I'm guessing the cat walk is still a little thin? Gear Notes: 1 ice tool 1 ice axe crampons
  14. I tend to use mountain-forecast.com but multiple times I have noticed different current conditions than what's being reported. I'm assuming they just pull data from NOAA and extrapolate it to the different elevations? I have searched around NOAA's archaic web site for weather stations at higher elevations near what ever mountain i'm going up but finding that station can be tricky sometimes. Sometimes there doesn't seem to be a close by station. wunderground.com has a better UI and i'm assuming they are primarily pulling data from NOAA as well? Any advice on how you get your forecast or your process would be awesome.
  15. What do you use for your weather forecast?

    wow, I had no idea this kind of information was out there. tstory - Thanks for the book recommendation. I really have never gave much thought about reading up about weather besides the forecast that's given to me. JasonG - Do you know of a blog post or write up somewhere that breaks down all of that information and some ways to use it? I'm not familiar with a lot of the terminology so I'm not even sure what some of information is.
  16. I was wondering how filled in some of the crevasses are. I'm thinking about going up via DC this weekend or next. Any info would be great, thanks!
  17. I live in Portland and would like to drive up to Washington and do some scrambles over a three day weekend. With this winter being weird i'm really not sure what I should set my goals on. I was hoping to hike in and set up camp. Then from camp be able to get up to a couple different peaks. I'll be going solo this weekend so I didn't want something too intense.
  18. Yeah, I'm talking about this coming weekend. I'm going to drive up there early tomorrow morning. I'll send you and him a PM and maybe we can get up something.
  19. That's a pretty good idea, I think i'm going to stick with that unless someone else gives me a reason not too. thanks!
  20. Mt Hood

    I went up the South Side this past Tuesday (1/20) and the conditions were perfect. I skinned up about a half mile past palmer and and then went out on foot from there. There was too much icy snow for the skis to get up any further and I didn't have a crampon attachment. I ended up going through the Pearly Gates and coming down the Old Chute. There was some cornice build up near the catwalk so that was kind of sketchy. Everything seems to be a little steeper than normal but i'm guessing that because of the low snowfall? This is what the Pearly Gates looked liked:
  21. thanks for writing this up!
  22. Mt Hood

    Thanks for the heads up, that's more then I was seeing at www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Hood/forecasts/1500 Where are you getting your info, it would be good to save that for the future.
  23. Mt Hood

    I'm thinking about heading up south side tomorrow morning. I have always gone up in the winter and spring so i'm not sure what to expect this time of the year. It looks like a good amount of snow has come down and temperatures have been pretty low.
  24. Mt Hood

    good advice, i'll probably check out sunshine and just see how it goes.