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Lillooet 1/17-1/20


Lambone

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We climbed:

Oregon Jack (in the full moon fruit.gif)

Cherry Ice

The Tube

and Marble Canyon

 

All were in good shape. The Tube was super fun, but bring Gore-Tex. We also attempted Loose Lady, but the last pitch looked a little too Loose for us cantfocus.gif(chandeliered + mushroomed ice) The approach pitches were fun. Also heard of climbers doing thge Rambles, Capricorn, Night'n Gale, and Syncronicity.

 

Carlsberg looks climbable, but it is super thin. And Brook said that Salmon Stakes and Silk Degrees were not in. Marble was fun, but definately a picked out hooking fest, only a few people there on Monday.

 

We bought some honey from Bob the "Honeyman." After parking in his driveway in the morning for Cherry Ice we felt obliged to. He was super friendly, and told us a bunch of cool stories about chasing Bears away from his bee hives in the old days. He makes some damn good honey! By the way, straight up from his place is not the best approach! He was laughing at us...instead park at the gated road and walk up the road to the water catchment facility. Be carefull, supposedly auto theft is a problem there. Honeyman falls is not in.

 

Plenty of ice to climb up there, go get it, and have fun!

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Originaly Posted by Fromage:

Climbed at Marble and Rambles this past weekend (MLK)

 

The Rambles:

 

lower tier, central flow is in good shape. Bring some stubbies for the first pitch. Second pitch was thick and plastic.

 

Upper tier, right side, was drippy but we climbed 4 routes on the righthand side. There is a cool pencil in the corner just to the right of the central pillar that has some great moves at the top where you climb out onto the top of the pillar. The mixed little dihedral is also quite fun. All routes are leadable, but wearing a shell is advised.

 

Far right side: two friends of mine found four varied pitches and described the climbing as enjoyable. Bring some pitons.

 

Marble: climbed here Saturday and Monday. The nature of the routes changed noticeably between the two days. The farmed routes are thickening up nicely and Deeping Wall is thin at the bottom but climbable if you are delicate. The thin routes to the left are all quite fun, the one nearest Deeping Wall is pretty chopped up and was getting lots of stuff broken off of it on Monday when it was colder. Climbers were doing the left side of the third pitch of Icy BC.

 

If it stays cold this week both of those places should be even better next weekend. Cheers-

 

Gruyere

 

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