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Eldorado Peak


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Would love to hear advice on Eldorado. Haven't been on here in quite a while. I've done Adams a few times and Rainier once with a guide...didn't summit due to weather. Anyway, we're thinking of coming out to climb in August and Eldorado caught my eye. We've got just the basic experience being roped up but I'm still really leery of crevasses. Wasn't sure how much of an issue they are on Eldorado. Should we use a guide service? I hate the climbing up in a row of 6 type climbing, so shy away from guide services. But, I'm 54 and don't have a huge ego and I also appreciate staying safe! Appreciate any advise from anyone that's climbed it.


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It is very straightforward with minimal crevasse hazard. The only thing that might give relatively inexperienced climbers pause is the summit ridge, but that is often pretty beat in by August. You can always protect it with picket running belays, up and down.


That said, I haven't roped up on Eldorado in many years, and have felt comfortable every time. I think most folks that have done some climbing and are familiar with crevasse rescue could do it without a guide (you really should rope up though). You'll want to be fit, it's a grunt!


And it is worth the effort to camp at the base of the East Ridge, one of my favorite campsites in the state (complete with toilet).


Not a bad view:



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I agree with Jason regarding the crevasse risk being relatively low.


It may be tough to obtain an overnight camping permit for that zone on a weekend in August. If you can swing a weeknight, you will probably have better odds.


The hike and boulder field scramble are pretty steep but at least the bugs will be terrible.

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+1 on the info provided by Jason and Bronco.


Don't let age delay your attempt. Climbed the East Ridge in May of 2013 @ 58yrs old I found the approach/deproach strenuous, mainly due to the unrelenting drizzle that soaked everything including exposed roots on the track heading up the hill to the boulder field. It's a hump up there no matter the time of year.


My partner and I camped just below where Jason recommended and it is a great spot.




It's a pretty mellow climb. My main challenge was keeping pace with my partner who was about half my age and much stronger. Such is life now though...


Good luck,



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I agree with Jason - the crevasse risk is relatively low, and in August the crevasses will eventually push you left onto the rock portion of the ridge, which you follow to the highest dry point until stepping back onto the snow for the final push to the summit.


By August the summit ridge really depends on the summer history. I've seen it a knife edge that could be au cheval'ed, and I've seen it casual enough that the need for a rope is questioned. Last August I summited in a cloud-bank whiteout with no horizon or contrast with fresh snow covering up any boot pack, forcing me to pitch it out for the leader.


Feel free to pm me if you have any follow-up questions. By August I'll likely have reached the summit on Eldorado a few times.



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