[TR] Prusik Peak - SG, BS, BC, new route, 6/13-5

[Steph_Abegg]

Trip: Prusik Peak - Solid Gold, Burgner-Stanley, Boving-Christensen, new route FA ?

 

Date: 6/13-15/2015

 

Trip Report:

This last weekend I joined my friends Brandon Kotulka, Jon Pobst, and James Fletcher and the pre-permit-season hoards up at Prusik. We climbed 4 routes over the course of the weekend:

1) Solid Gold (5.11a)

2) Burgner-Stanley (5.9+)

3) a new route just left of Solid Gold, possible FA ? (5.10+ A0)

4) Boving-Christensen (5.10)

 

Here's some overlays:

 

And some random photos:

Brandon leading the first pitch of Solid Gold:

 

Brandon on the 5.9+ corner on Burgner-Stanley:

 

Jon on Pitch 3 of our possible FA of Energizer Bunny:

 

Camp below Prusik Peak:

 

I've posted more photos and a full TR on my website:

http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/prusik3

-Steph

Edited June 17, 2015 by Steph_Abegg

[Sol]

Nice work! Looks like a great weekend.

 

I imagine that much of the new route you guys did was climbed in the late 80's by Fred Yakijlic. Fred put up four routes in the Solid Gold vicinity including the likely FA of Solid Gold.

 

This is what Dberdinka wrote in my original Solid Gold TR :

 

 

Here's some interesting writeups out of the AAJ.

 

The first route referenced seems to be the start of Solid Gold followed by a finish up and right. The second route reference seems to take on the big roof crack just right of the Solid Gold start then finishes with the upper pitches of Solid Gold (beautiful white dihedral by a thin finger crack). So SG is really a combination of two routes done previously.

Then they did two routes on the nice looking wall left of Solid Gold.

 

 

1988 AAJ pg 130 must be 1987 route

Prusik Peak, South Face of West Ridge. On August 16, Rich Romano and

I ascended the leftmost crack system on the south face of Prusik. The large

overhang on the second pitch was passed on the right. A short overhanging

hand crack and airy face moves brought us to the west-ridge route. (The climb

is left of the Boving-Christensen route.) (II, 5.10.)

FRED

 

1989 AAJ pg 142

Prusik Peak, South Face of West Ridge. On August 3, after being stopped the

previous day, Rich Roman0 led through the large overhangs 50 feet to the right

of our 1987 route. A pitch higher in a big alcove, we crossed left of the other

route, then climbed a beautiful white dihedral by a thin finger crack, gaining the

west ridge (II, 5.11+). The following day, we climbed a diagonaling crack

system up and to the right to a belay on the southwest arete and ultimately to the

west ridge (II, 5.11). On August 11, David Goland and I did a route that starts

further left, in a striking right-angle dihedral. After two pitches, we were forced

out of the dihedral by the lack of protection. We entered a curving slot up and

right, which placed us at the base of the now familiar finger crack (II, 5. IO+).

The climbs are named Double Bein, Keep on Belton. and Notley’s Direct.

FRED YACKIJLIC

 

You shouldn't let that take away from your adventures though. Like Wayne and party on Solid Gold, you can't fake the thrill of climbing into the unknown on lichen covered white granite! Big ups to Mr. Yakijlic for throwing down back in the day!

[JasonG]

Geez, that is a lot of climbing in a few days. Excellent report as always Steph, glad to see you're still going full bore.

[Steph_Abegg]

Sol,

Yeah I saw those entries in the AAJ but none quite fit any of our pitches. Certainly not the first and second pitch which were pretty distinct. Hard to imagine they have not been climbed at some point and just not really documented but who knows. But the thrill of the unknown was there and that's what counts!

 

[Sol]

Sol,

Yeah I saw those entries in the AAJ but none quite fit any of our pitches. Certainly not the first and second pitch which were pretty distinct. Hard to imagine they have not been climbed at some point and just not really documented but who knows. But the thrill of the unknown was there and that's what counts!

 

Fer sure, it could definetly be a FA or portions thereof, but it seems like every few years someone does a new FA on Prusik which makes me think it's all been climbed before. Nonetheless like you said, it's the experience not the documentation that counts!

[dberdinka]

Nice trip and pretty stunning collection of booty. Somewhere in your TR you wrote " This was a really good pitch for untraveled alpine rock.", which would appear to be quite a bit of an understatement.

[Tom_Sjolseth]

Sweet.

[abarlow]

A 3 cam bail anchor!

 

That's quite the find!

[jwalseth]

Historical note: Circa 1980 Wayne Kamara and I did a route 'Big Orange' to the right of Boving-Christensen with the goal of climbing the spectacular orange dihedral seen below with Wayne in it. The corner turned out to suitable for protection but was not itself 'climbable' and we traversed left, to where the Boving-Christensen meets Big Orange. A few days ago Wayne's brother Scott scanned Wayne's slides, and now the world can know.  

I think the arrow in my topo below saying "possible variant" is the B-C.