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dawuda

[TR] The Tooth - South Face 6/6/2015

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Trip: The Tooth - South Face

 

Date: 6/6/2015

 

Trip Report:

Climbed the Tooth Saturday. Attempted to avoid the rope orgy that occured..... wow. Simply had to share this picture.

 

1 team rapping. 1 fixed line being prussiked by multiple people. 2 separate teams with lead ropes, all on the same pitch and crack.

 

20150606_103613.jpg

 

 

FUN!

 

Gear Notes:

stuff

Edited by dawuda

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Wow! Thanks for sharing, I just wish there was someway to educate these folks about climbing ethics. I was up at WA Pass this weekend and there were lots of folks climbing but everyone had awesome climbing ethics about letting faster folks pass when possible, not overcrowding belays, extra.....

Edited by tvClimber

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Don't forget the barking dog that had been tied up below the first pitch and the owner yelling at it from somewhere above. Classy.

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Peter, get your knife.

 

What?

 

Just do as I say.

 

Get it!

 

You don't have much time here.

 

You have to do something for me.

 

Cut me loose.

 

One cam can't hold us all.

 

You have to cut me loose...

 

...or else I'll pull everybody down. Everybody will die!

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The main problem was the Mazamas putting up fixed lines for a large group to prussic and clogging the route big time. This lead to a breakdown of the normal wait your turn or communicate with the other team about passing procedure as a few groups (including my group that took an alternate to pitch one climbers right) tried to climb variations to get around them.

Edited by RaisedByPikas

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Climb the Tooth after Labor Day weekend and you'll have it mostly to yourself. During prime time other objectives are a better option :-)

 

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I've actually soloed the Tooth when it's like this. The mounties, boealps, mazamas, are objective hazards that train you for the rigors of the big alpine. You def want to be wearing a helmet though.

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Dude some genius had a dog at the base of SEWS this last weekend too... Maybe respect the LAW and other peoples nature experience and leave your dogs at home?

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A friend of mine watched a German shepherd get disemboweled by a nan goat one time at the base of SEWS. The dog thought her kid looked tasty. Ooops.

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