New Routes at Exit 38 Far Side

[Sam Boyce]

I bolted a couple lines a while back and never got around to posting them, so here they are. They are to the far right of gun show, about a couple hundred feet to the right of web slinger. The first one is a 2 pitch stem width chimney (p1 is the chimney, p2 is on an arete). http://www.mountainproject.com/v/stairway-to-stem/110503508

The other is a 2 pitch face climb that probably goes somewhere in the 12's. It starts in a overhung dihedral (probably in the 12's) to the right of stairway to stem, it then heads up some easy slab to an anchor. From there its thin face climbing (11's) up the obvious face and to the right of the arete toward the top. This is an open project. Here is the MP page i made for the variation i took on an FA attempt http://www.mountainproject.com/v/unfinished-business-/110503770

Edited May 21, 2015 by Sam Boyce

[kurthicks]

Nice Sam. Thanks for sharing--I saw the new fixed line recently and wondered who had been poking around.

 

I'll put them in the new book! Shoot me an email with complete FA info here: kurthicksATgmail

[Rad]

Thanks Sam. Will check them out. You might want to retrieve your rope before someone absconds with it.

 

I have some new routes out there too. They'll be in the next guide.

[Eric K]

Any idea when the next guide is coming?

[kurthicks]

I'm hoping to have it on the shelves for Christmas.

[Rad]

I'm hoping to have it on the shelves for Christmas.

 

Make it so!

[Sam Boyce]

Hey Guys, figured I should give an update and a bit of a warning. I've been up in the same vicinity as the other routes I bolted cleaning a few new lines, today especially I kicked off a number of rather huge blocks. So this is more of a warning for the next few days. It will NOT be safe to go all the way down to web slinger, web slinger might be "ok" but I've noticed quite a bit of shrapnel flying in that direction. I'll try and rope off the approach with the fixed line and might make a sign (maybe for the TH and the rope, thoughts?), and will certainly try to give advanced warning for bigger rocks.

With all that said, there should be a total of 4 new independent multi-pitch lines in the vicinity by the end of the week. I'll post some beta once I get them all cleaned and climbed.

Once climbed there will be a total of 6 routes (adding up to a total of 15 pitches)

from left to right:

-3 pitch 5.hard, don't know what it'll go at, still need to clean and bolt the crux. mixed pro

-3 pitch (optional p-1) mid 10, mixed pro

-stairway to stem

-2 pitch 5.8-9 on gear with bolted anchors

-2 pitch 5.hard open project dihege to 10- face to V3-4

-3 pitch 5.7ish all gear, top out at headlight

As I was cleaning , I noticed the lines I bolted earlier this year had gotten a bit grungy and dirty, so I took a scrub lap down p2 of stairway. I'm holding off on rescrubbing p1 of stairway as that is where all of the cleaning debris in the area accumulates. Everything should be good to go later this week. I'll post a topo for the area along with pictures/better route descriptions and names once they get climbed (speaking of, anyone want to do some FA's thur afternoon)

[Sam Boyce]

Also, for all you adrenaline junkies, there is a bit of a side project coming into fruition. I don't feel disposed to share details until i'm sure its safe, but i'm psyched for it, so if you want some beta shoot me a PM.

[jakedouglas]

I am keen to hear more about these new multi-pitch routes.

[Sam Boyce]

Hey guys, haven't posted in a while so i figured i should give an update on what i've been up to (not as much climbing as i'd like). I had some time off and couldn't secure a climbing partner to go to squamish so I made some last minute plans and went on a solo backpacking trip. After i got back i was riding my motorcycle and got rear-ended by another bike. I got some decent road rash, nothing to stop me from climbing, but enough to make me not want to head up and clean (seems self-explanatory, but for those who don't know, scrubbing tends to generate an unpleasant cloud of dirt and lichen debris). Everything is ready minus the far left line (ran out of hangers, so i need to get some more to bolt the short section of rock without gear options). I'm hoping to get out this week to get the 3 new lines climbed. I'll bring my camera when i get out and post all the info/grades and such then. Also, i recently checked in on the MP pages and it seems like someone climbed the proj dihege, i'll try and get a hold of him, see if he wants to name it, see what he felt about the grade.

[Sam Boyce]

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1142936

weather, injury, and lack of availability prolonged it longer than i'd like but i finally got out and did some final scrubbing and climbed the new lines.