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christophbenells

RIP Portland/Anchorage climber Dasan...

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I was never very close with Dasan, but I would see him several times throughout the winter climbing season. He was always so stoked. He would periodically post on the forums here.

 

Very sorry to hear he died in a climbing accident on Yukla in the chugach range.

 

Last year in the AK range we were so stoked when his familiar face popped in our cook tent unexpectedly.

 

You will be missed buddy. I still have your old 22cm bd screw and I will put it to good use for you.

Edited by christophbenells

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Wow... Kid was really bold, and had a crazy enthusiasm for gnarly ice. We weren't exactly bros, but we tried to be a couple seasons ago... just never did get trips/schedules to line up.

 

RIP, little bro... climb the big one in the sky.

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He was a great guy. Here is a TR from him a couple years ago.

 

 

March Madness, Crown Jewel, Black Spider

 

I climbed March Madness and Crown Jewel this January, both for the first time and had great experiences. I climbed March Madness, and some other ice runnels, solo and found it rewarding climbing, spending time being extra attentive and purposeful about pick placements due to its interact nature on March Madness, sometimes having to dig beneath a layer of sun effected ice and insubstantial drips. As for Crown Jewel, not that its there anymore, was probably the most fun I have ever had climbing in Oregon and got to share it with good company. I found myself laughing joyfully the whole way up, mostly moving over 4"-8" plastic ice, thinner in spots and opportunities to sink a couple 16cm and a nice apron to cling at the top of out second pitch. Once we toped out, we climbed steep moss and mud to a ridge to the east and walk it to the road. Lastly, We, myself and two friends, went up the Center Drip on the Black Spider on February 2nd. Which, like Wayne said, is a very do-able route. No harder then say WI3 with some foot placements on rock here and there, with perfect sticks, seriously, the ice was fucking amazing. We soloed everything but the last pitch, which was the crux and was a very fun, airy lead. We started at timberline, up the palmer, and round under steal cliffs, around Wy'est. Eleven and a half hours round trip. Found a picket, a sling and a locker in the chute we down climbed after summiting, think it might have been the Mazama's Chute.

 

 

Happy Climbing. Here are some pics.

 

602964_4996924048341_1610313082_n.jpg76899_4996924808360_1967129114_n.jpg6348_4996930048491_2017319384_n.jpg408198_4996929048466_609819612_n.jpg529050_4996929568479_442316874_n.jpg66452_4996931288522_1042624822_n.jpg486006_542744713696_872804524_n.jpg270867_4996934488602_305751478_n.jpg46338_4996935808635_1829442588_n.jpg485207_10200244272496950_237475592_n.jpg578209_10200244270896910_193119392_n.jpg544484_10200244271696930_1308821441_n.jpg404952_10200244280297145_472846072_n.jpg563278_10200244268816858_317694133_n.jpg223523_10200244272816958_640973601_n.jpg404441_10151473468226257_746796035_n.jpg480468_10200244272216943_1969787697_n.jpg487433_10200244274376997_948911605_n.jpgIMAG0029.jpgIMAG00341.jpg382176_10200244281737181_233077010_n.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Full rubber raincoat for Crown Jewel in the conditions we climbed it in.

 

Approach Notes:

For Crown Jewel there is a rail road pull out between Exit 22 and Exit 23 on 84 just before Mirror Lake that is the best access. Park and walk down the tracks to the base of the climb.

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So devastating. I simply cannot believe he fell.

 

I just saw him before the new year, so stoked he wanted to climb Yocum, but weather never materialized and then he left for AK.

 

My condolences to his friends and family.

RIP, Dasan.

 

 

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for every man

living on this earth

means waiting for his end

let he who can achieve glory

before death

when a warrior is gone

that will be his best

and only bulwark

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Dasan was introduced to me by one of his best friends. His 100% stoke for getting after it was infectious and we quickly became friends. We only got out together a few times, skiing, climbing, but he truly loved being in the mountains (why he moved to Alaska!) and I was always hearing of his latest ice sends or alaska range plans.

 

One time we tried to climb the Reid headwall without any sleep and get back in time for morning class, needless to say it didn't work out but I was lucky enough to share one of the most beautiful sunrises I've ever seen with him, while skiing rime to the car.

 

It was far too early for someone this enthusiastic about living to go....its unreal that he's gone. Condolences to his family, friends, and all who he inspired.

Rest in peace Dasan.

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