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Posted (edited)

I had super fun 12 days at RR. Took my wife on Crimson Chrysalis- fun route, but honestly- doesn't have to get gang-banged like this at all. There is absolutely nothing special about this route, and there are a ton of other routes of that sort- all people have to do is open a guidebook and move their ass. Ginger Cracks is tad harder, but with a lot more character, almost entire route can be climbed without bolts.

We were lucky, as we were first on the route, and 2 parties behind were pretty efficient, which made raping through them fairly easy. However this has a potential for a complete cluster f…, something that probably happens all the time. Since I happened to run into many folks from PNW at RR, I just wanted to share this.

Also going to Black Velvet with a rental sedan will be marginal at best at the moment. The last creek crossing is getting quite beat up, so prepare yourself for slow driving and navigating holes (we rented Camry).

Edited by glassgowkiss
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Posted

Raping 4 people or more should be no problem for you Bob, that we can all be sure of.

 

The first time I tried to climb CC there was something like 12-14 people standing around the base, it was crazy. We went and climbed Ginger Cracks like you recommend. In the afternoon we encountered the 2nd or 3rd party that had only made 3 or 4 pitches up due to how slow the initial parties were.

 

Eventually climbed it but agree that it was not somehow particularly better or better at all than many many other climbs.

 

Still think Community Pillar is the best!

Posted

Black Dagger, Bourbon Street, heck, even Olive Oil are probably much better then CC. I have not done Community Pillar, but I will try next time.

Also Juniper Hedgehog sounds like "adventure". I also have not done Refrigerator Buttress, but it also is most likely a great route, with lot's of character. It really baffles me why Crimson Chrysalis is so highly recommended. Honestly, there was nothing special about it at all.

BTW, the only fuck up on raps was, when we rapped through the last party, and idiot grabbed the end of my rope and tossed it down- the best practice is just to let the rope go through on it's own.

 

Posted (edited)

there is a massive number of climbs at red rocks that seam to barely get climbed and are just as fun or nearly so as the routes with all the lines. I infact think that the guidebook authors chose to give 4 stars to a few climbs to concentrate folks away from their actual favorite routes, which they give no stars and R and X ratings too :)

 

 

Edited by shapp
Posted
BTW, the only fuck up on raps was, when we rapped through the last party, and idiot grabbed the end of my rope and tossed it down- the best practice is just to let the rope go through on it's own.

Crimson is famous for ropes hanging on the descent. They probably thought they were doing you a favor, unless they ended up hanging them.

Posted
BTW, the only fuck up on raps was, when we rapped through the last party, and idiot grabbed the end of my rope and tossed it down- the best practice is just to let the rope go through on it's own.

Crimson is famous for ropes hanging on the descent. They probably thought they were doing you a favor, unless they ended up hanging them.

yeah, that was the only time I had to flick the rope off flakes. Actually ropes went down just fine otherwise. People think they are doing you a favor, but this is a single worst thing you can do.

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