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Watusi Rodeo


texplorer

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A friend asked me if I wanted to do the infamous Marc Twight route a couple of days ago and I was just curious if anyone here has done this route or has any beta on the route. I am kinda clueless as to what the route is about except for some pics I looked at this weekend at Senor Bourbon's. Is this in the Willis wall category of danger and committment or does it just require more technical climbing?

 

P.S. I already know to take 20 packets of Gu and to cut the tags out of my gear to save weight.

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I think it's only seen a second ascent as of a few years ago by forrest_m who posts here and offered info. Look in the N Cascades section for a recent posting with photos that forrest showed and other info.

 

I dont look at it like Willis Wall but maybe that's cuz I am drinking whiskey and cokes right now. fruit.gif

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Was up doing Snowfield Peak on December 1. Seems like it would be quite feasible to get to the base of Watusi Rodeo by way of the Pyramid Lake/Pyramid Peak Trail. You can camp on the East Ridge of Pyramid then contour around the head of Colonial Creek to get to Colonial the next morning. Might be a slight problem crossing Colonial Creek (contour too high and it's a waterfall).

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i wrote a pretty long and detailed TR at the time, which is undoubtedly more accurate than my memory after 3 years. a search in the n. cascades forum for "colonial" would surely bring it up.

 

i think that ideal conditions for the route would be a storm cycle followed by week of clear weather with low freezing levels. this is more or less what we had, but it started snowing soon after we left the car. we had a lot of problems with spindrift and unconsolidated snow by the time we finished.

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Definitely quick to go right up Colonial Creek from the road.

Benefit for camping on East Ridge of Pyramid would be the ability to view the route from a roughly horizontal eye-angle as opposed to from below. You can plot/see the route from camp, then aim directly for it the next day. Binoculars would be handy. I would estimate one hour to get to base of Colonial from the East Ridge of Pyramid. Camp on the ridge is roughly 5,400 ft.

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Wayne and I got from the road to the base of the route by following the creek from the road in less than two hours. Follow the right side of the creek and stay a couple of hundred feet away from the creek. It is as easy and approach as you will find in the Cascades in winter.

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That is pretty much "ideal conditions" for most Cascade winter climbs. But I would add that a WARM storm cycle should ideally be follow by a week of cold.
Tex will be torn between hitting up the Yoke or this when this Wx pattern moves through. hahaha.gif Poor Tex, what's an hombre to do?
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