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Posted

In years past I recall the WR of Forbidden had many rappel anchors on the climbing route. We descended this route yesterday and found only three anchors, which led down the north side of the ridge. Were the old anchors removed or am I just too blind to see them?

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Posted

I thought that issue was bolts in the gulley/buttress below the WR Notch.

 

There had been wads of slings on horns and flakes and such on the WR itself. I could not locate these and wonder if they were removed to encourage folks to descend a different way other than the climbing route.

Posted

I was actually out at forbidden yesterday and spoke to a park ranger about the descent route. She advised climbers to follow a rappel line somewhere on the ridge, that breaks off before the the coulouir and gully. It supposedly save a lot of time. One other climber in boston basin that same day mentioned that it began with 3 or 4 raps of brand new bright blue slings. It eluded me exactly where the preferred rap route begins.

Posted

By climbing route, I assume you mean the West Ridge proper, so this has nothing to do with the anchors that the NPS removed on the rap route below the notch.

 

Anyways, I was up there a few weeks ago and there was 4-5 piles of tat with rap rings at various points along the ridge. I think we used two or three of them for raps.

 

On the descent below the notch, we passed quite a few rap stations on the rib and in the gully both to the climbers left of the snow finger.

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