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TimL

Info request: Alpine areas to take a beginner?

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I am lucky enough that my brother recently started climbing a few months back. He knows the basics and when I get home I´ll be able to teach him a few more things. He took a week off during the third week of August for us to go climbing. My problem is I want to take him to a place with easy to moderate alpine routes. The problem is I´ve been climbing for a fairly long time, I´ve done most of the easy to moderate routes, especially in Washington. Can anybody suggest some ideas please? A road trip is an option? I was thinking that the Tetons might be good. Maybe take him to the Pickets. Any alpine traverses in the Cascades like the Ptarmigan? Canada maybe?

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Given the hot start to the summer, most places will be pretty boney come late August. However, the Eldorado Ice cap should still work, as will the Ptarmigan (be ready for lots of talus/scree). Olympus over in the Olympics might still be in OK shape and it is quite an adventure to spend a few extra days on the Snow Dome peak bagging. I would shy away from taking a newbie into the Pickets (with the exception of West Mac), since there isn't a lot of easy terrain and ratings don't quite tell the whole story.

 

If you are willing to drive, I think one of the best spots around is Rogers Pass. So many moderate options on great quartzite.

 

 

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mt prusik and dragontail both have easy routes that oughta thrill a newbie and not get them in over their head

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If you're willing to drive as far as the Tetons (and if neither of you have warrants or recent felony convictions), what about the Bugaboos? A good variety of classic moderate routes, relatively simple (basecamp in one spot). Pretty outrageous setting. August should have the least bad weather.

 

For something a little closer (and maybe less crowded / less of a focal point), Valhalla Range in BC. I've always wanted to hit Mt. Gimli .

 

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Tim has been to the Bugs. I recommend the Tetons. Super classic climbs, easy access, huge variety of alpine rock climbs, great lodging at the Climber's Ranch. What's not to like?

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I´ve been to the Bugs a couple times but it is a good idea. West Mac would be the goal in the Pickets and maybe Luna. My brother is fit and has been going to the climbing gym, but not much technical knowledge. Before we head out I´ll be teaching him some things and going up to Washington Pass to do the classics with him. Rogers Pass is a good idea too!

 

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