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Is it just me?


nolanr

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People come up with their lists of top climbs, and when they get to sport or trad routes on crag climbs, I get bored pretty quick. I don't say that to be condescending, it's not that I'm a great climber. I just don't find that I remember the names of crag routes. I probably couldn't come up w/ more than half-a-dozen that I've done. I like cragging sometimes, it's fun and challenging, I just don't store the names of the routes, it doesn't seem very important to me. Anybody else feel that way, or is it just me?

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So far, just you. Are you taking falls at the crags? Coming close? Ever pull thru a move you were sure you were going to fall off? Ever figure out a tricky crux right before your strength evaporated? The climbs I remember the best usually scared me or I surprised myself by doing them. But I'm hooked on rocks.

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So, for instance, you can't remember the name of that route at Castle Rock that goes up and under a roof and then the next pitch steps right out on the lip of that roof, ooooh exposure - I'd even call it one of Washington's classic climbs - you can't remember that route's name?

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People come up with their list of top climbs, and they get to glaciers that they have been on or slogs they've done, I get bored pretty quick. I don't say that to be condescending, its not that I'm a great climber. Its just that when I think about slogging that I've done, I can't come up with more than half-a-dozen that I've done. I like sloggin' sometimes, It's a good workout and it gets me to some pretty places. I just don't store the names of the routes or features. It doesn't seem very important to me. Anybody else feel that way or is it just me?

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Rocks, trees, glaciers - do they truly have names? Nature only exists and changes form. To name mountains, routes, and specific climbs is to put our own limitations on nature. Yes, I use names to identify a climb to other climbers but I remember it as it was for me. It would seem silly to name each hold or crevass on a climb yet at places like Smith there are names for climbs just feet apart. So, to tell you the truth -do I remember names of climbs? Yes, so that I may orient myself and others to the places and things we have done. More importantly though I also remember the exact spot on a climb and the exact feeling of slapping at a hold; missing; and taking a whipper. I don't name the move that I finally mastered but it is no less vivid. In short, a true climber remembers the experience. He recalls the names to impress the chicks back at the lodge and to keep the vertically challenged rastafarian boulderers stuck to their roadside frolics. Spray on

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Alright, so you've had your fun w/ me (Matt Anderson). I'll give you an example of what I mean. I did a multi pitch route on Icicle Buttress this weekend. On one of my leads, I did feel like I was about to come off. Got pretty freaky. Very motivating. I won't soon forget that experience. I couldn't tell you the name of the route, though, because I didn't even hear it's name before we started climbing it. And I didn't look up the name afterwards. I do know we did Spaghetti Crack or something like that just before the multi pitcher.

Here's another example. One of the funnest days I've had cragging was at Frenchman's. We forgot the guide book. So we didn't know the names of the routes or the ratings as we were doing them. Had a great time anyway.

It makes it hard to compare war stories w/ other climbers afterwards, but other than that, what's in name?

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How about Penguins in Bondage? (I know its off limits now) Does it sound like it may be a bit awkward? How about Rainy Day Woman? Do you think you could get on it if the forecast was bad? What do you think "A" crack & "C" crack might look like? Do you think Party in Your Pants might be fun? Names have power. If you don't believe me whisper another womans name in your wife's ear the next time you make love!

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Route names are cool and fun, especially if some one has gone to the trouble to name them appropriately, I try to remember them and usually do. But I have also noticed that Guidebooks often prevent as much climbing as they facilitate as would be climbers wander around the base of the crag insearch of the right number (5.?) to climb as they walk past dozens of perfectly wonderful routes.

-Mitch

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The power of a name...I hear rumour of a pitch at Frenchman's called Menstrating Whale Snatch. Geez, what does that tell us about the climb? That you need a harpoon and foul weather gear before you attempt it?

I don't have a wife, so I won't be able to try that little experiment of whispering another woman's name in her ear. Sounds like a lot of fun though.

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Rafael,

It's easy dude. Just go to the bottom of it where the road is and start heading in a generally upward direction. After alot of that you'll get to this spot where you can't go up anymore (I've heard its called the summit). From there you go down but be careful there's these cracks in the snow and stuff.

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wow, you guys are getting way way way to into this whole subject. Either the guys who really cling to the names are uptight about the whole idea because they know they're wrong, or they're really right and names do matter. Personally, I only pay attention to the names when I'm trying to describe the route to somebody else, or when they have a badass name like menstruating whale shingles or whatever it was, or like Aging Fags down on Madrone Wall. Now THATS a name! Otherwise, I just identify them by their grades. (example: hey did you check out that .11b over there? It's bitchin.) If they say which .11b, I fumble around for awhile until I find the name of it, and then I don't forget. When I am lacking a guidebook, I just look around and find the spiffy climbs with my two eyeballs. What's wrong with any of this? NOTHING. Climb however you want. If you like names, if you don't, who cares?! Whatever floats your boat. Don't judge each other on such a stupid classification.

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quote:

Originally posted by nolanr:

The power of a name...I hear rumour of a pitch at Frenchman's called Menstrating Whale Snatch. Geez, what does that tell us about the climb? That you need a harpoon and foul weather gear before you attempt it?


The crack is wide, loose and has lots of er um discharge.

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