Otto Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 One day in early June I replaced the top anchor and three of the pro bolts on the second pitch of Magic Bus. Then I dropped the Allen wrench. This is with a Pika drill and with the bit all loose I couldn't turn the drill so the day's work was over. Amazingly, when I rapped to the packs at the base, there was the wrench! Returning the next weekend, I had no partner so solo belayed up the first pitch. I replaced the anchor on that one, and one quarter-inch pro bolt that someone else had missed. So that pitch was done, but there were still the last four old bolts on the second pitch. Thinking about soloing that was starting to make me sweat. That pitch is a little gnarly, at 5.9, especially at the top with a bit of runout. I was getting a little concerned when along came a group of three friendly folks who sounded interested in helping out. I offered to give Jeremy the second pitch, who gladly gave me a belay to the top, and I got to work. I fixed the rope and replaced the last four pro bolts while Jeremy, Christine and Jake had fun over on Dirt Circus. Thanks to Mark McKillop, Peter Wojcik, and Steve Risse (RIP) for putting up this nice route. I know the first pitch doesn't follow your original line, but I see the old single bolt out there to the right, and it looks like good climbing over there, too! Everyone refers to the modern line as Magic Bus, and it's an integral part of this beautiful crag that continues to provide us with great days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Hey bill, it was a pleasure meeting you up there and was glad to help out a bit. Both routes are fun and quite safe. More people should visit. 3 o'clock rock is slowly coming into the modern age. It might be nice to give folks a rundown of all the routes sporting new hardware to entice them towards these routes and away from those that could be dangerous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Almost all of the routes shown on my website have been maintained. Darrington Rock Climbing I continue with the maintenance and I hope to add more to the website this Summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
num1mc Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 The original first pitch, May 12 1979. The day before Mothers Day and the Sonics game six against the Suns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hanman Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Great shots- Thanks! MH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 Wow, thanks for the cool pics! I wonder if many people went up beyond the second pitch back then. There are two old bolts with tat, and then the great unknown... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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