Val Zephyr Posted June 17, 2014 Posted June 17, 2014 Trip: Enchantments- Flagpole and Little Annapurna - Date: 6/14/2014 Trip Report: Craig, Vern and I climbed the strange little formation on the side Pennant Peak known as the Flagpole on Saturday in just under 19 hrs car-to-car. I’ve been coming to the Enchantment area to climb for several years now, hitting many of the major moderate routes, and repeating several of these routes again. I love the area, but I was looking for a new adventure. Craig was in a similar predicament. What do you do when you begin to run out of new things to climb? The answer became obvious as we stood atop Argonaut Peak a couple weeks ago and noticed the Flagpole off in the distance. Neither of us had set foot on its airy little summit. This subpeak of the nearby Pennant Peak (which is a subpeak of Little Annapurna in itself) probably goes unnoticed by most, but in 1950 Fred Beckey and Pete Schoening bolted a line up the north side of the spire, making this objective possible for the moderate climber. Fast forward to 2014 and I doubt much has changed, “These bolts aren’t getting any younger”. Armed with as much beta as we could gather from John Plotz and Kyle Flick’s ascents a few years back Craig, myself and Vern set out for the Flagpole. We left the Stuart Lake Trailhead at 4:15am ready for a long day ahead. The all too familiar trail to Colchuck Lake and Aasgard pass went by quickly in the cool early morning. We crested Aagard Pass at around 8 am. We chose to approach the Flagpole by descending the prominent col between Little Annapurna and the Witches Tower. From the col we descended nearly 1000’ to traverse below a few rock ribs before regaining the elevation and being situated just two short pitches below the final aid pitch up the Flagpole. I got these couple of pitches; the first being not much more than a scramble (Vern actually did just scramble it). The second pitch was real, even if just for a move or two; an old bolt protects smear in a shallow, flaring corner crack. Approaching the Flagpole via the col Climbing the second pitch of the Flagpole Craig took the lead of the final aid pitch up the Flagpole. The old bolts held. There’s a sizable gap between the fifth and (now) sixth bolt were one was broken at some point though. Thankfully Craig is a tall guy, I couldn’t have made this reach. An old #3.5 and an old #5 cam (similar to a new #6) allowed him to aid through the final wide crack to the arête. Once on the arête, there are a couple of 5.7 moves with some wild exposure to the top of the formation. Vern and I followed, aiding the route while on top-rope. The summit surprisingly fit all three of us well enough. If anyone out on Little Annapurna saw us all crammed up there and got a pic, we forgot to take a proper summit photo! There is an old bolt, old pin and a shiny 3/8” bolt for a rappel. Two 60m ropes reached the top of the first pitch, though one could make an additional rappel from the top of the second pitch and avoid carrying the extra rope. Aiding up the Flagpole The final 5.7 moves that gain the top Back at the base of the Flagpole, we contemplated our options. The snowy exit gulley (just west of the true summit of Little Annapurna) looked too steep, icy and melted out to ascend with flexible boots. We debated going back the way we’d came, but that would involve loosing and gaining 1000’ in slushy snow. We consulted the internet again and found a nice TR for a south face rock climb of Little Annapurna and set our sights that way. We walked a few hundred yards, scrambled a couple hundred feet up a gulley on the left of the main summit and roped up. An easy 4th class ramp system led right from the gulley, then easy 5th class straight up to a few feet west of the summit. Craig and Vern each led a short simul-climbing block up this route and we were on the summit in just over an hour after departing the base of the Flagpole. No lengthy traverse back to our original col, fun and easy climbing, and a bonus summit. Sweet! South Face of Little Annapurna Easy ramp begins the roped climbing Then straight up to the summit Bonus summit of Little Annapurna Since we saved a little time there, Craig and I opted to continue on for the full value trip down through the rest of the Enchantments and out the Snow Creek trailhead. Vern was not convinced by our “logic” and opted for the 6 mile return trip down Aasgard instead of the 12 mile return through Snow Lakes. Vern as well as other friends and Craig’s wife, who had hiked to Lake Vivian via snow lake that day helped sort out the cars and somehow everyone (and their cars) ended up were they needed to be and Craig and I received leftover Mexican dinner upon our return. Friends rock! Getting ready for our long walk home Little Annapurna and the Flagpole Thanks for a great trip guys. I love long days in the mountains! Gear Notes: Crampons and an ax were useful for descent from the col to toward the Flagpole Very light rack + a #6 (new) camalot Small biners for old hangers and extra cord to thread through them if carabiners don't fit. Approach Notes: Nearly snow free all the way up to Aasgard Pass. The upper Enchantments are still holding a lot of snow. Quote
olyclimber Posted June 17, 2014 Posted June 17, 2014 Nice! Great pictures. Gotta love these longer days. Quote
telemarker Posted June 17, 2014 Posted June 17, 2014 Score one for the obscure file! Nice going you guys. Quote
Kyle_Flick Posted June 18, 2014 Posted June 18, 2014 Nice work Val, Vern and Craig! Next time...on the approach to the Flagpole cross higher up on the shoulder of Little Annapurna--this ledge system drops you right to the base of the climb (which avoids the extra 1000' of elevation loss/gain). Quote
olyclimber Posted June 19, 2014 Posted June 19, 2014 Ivan, someday you and I should hook up to do the Flagpole. You can lead all the hard pitches. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.