June N Cascades objectives

[bedellympian]

I have 10-12 days June 12-23rd and want to do an alpine climbing road trip. Nothing super hard or technical, just some easy-moderate routes, at least some of them alone.

 

Obviously it depends on weather but I was hoping to get some feedback and alternate ideas to add to my existing list.

 

So far I am considering: Baker N Ridge, Shuksan N Face, Torment Forbidden Traverse, J-burg N butt, Goode N butt, Southern Pickets scrambles/moderate rock routes, WA pass moderates.

 

To give some idea of my experience: I will lead up to 5.8 in boots, 10+ trad in rock shoes, solo 5.6 onsite if the rock is solid. I am very comfortable soloing on 50 deg snow and ice. Will lead WI3/4 fairly comfortably. Climbs in the past year include Stuart CNR, and Jeff Park in winter.

[JasonG]

Depending on the spring, that is a bit early for the rock routes up here on the wet side- at least if you want them in their best (driest) condition. Shuksan and Baker should be in good shape if you get the weather. NE ridge of Black may be as well. WA pass, or the Stuart Range, will likely be climbable in if it is gloomy on this side.

[curtveld]

You probably know that the weather in the North Cascades is notoriously unpredictable, and June is especially so. The best 'plan' is to research a wide range of options in advance and pick the best option(s) when you check the last forecast as you head out the door.

 

As Jason says, there will be almost certainly be drier alpine rock options at WA Pass and the Enchantments. However if the pattern is cold/stormy, nearly all of the alpine climbs you mention will be getting hammered.

 

If snow is a priority, I'd scope out the few alpine options toward the east: Maude and Stuart Range (N sides of Colchuck and Stuart for starters) come to mind. There might be some things around Rainy Pass (Stiletto?) that would be fun and relatively accessible. An off-the-beaten-path option is the North Couloir of Robinson.

[bedellympian]

Yeah, I definitely want a range of options. North Couli on Robinson and NE Ridge on Black both look cool but pretty mellow. I kinda feel like I should try do something that is big and comprehensive to make the trip "worth it." Maybe I'm just under estimating those routes because of their low technical grade? Any other suggestions? Maybe I should go to the Sierra and climb alpine granite under sunny blue skies instead

[matt_warfield]

Yeah, I definitely want a range of options. North Couli on Robinson and NE Ridge on Black both look cool but pretty mellow. I kinda feel like I should try do something that is big and comprehensive to make the trip "worth it." Maybe I'm just under estimating those routes because of their low technical grade? Any other suggestions? Maybe I should go to the Sierra and climb alpine granite under sunny blue skies instead

 

Unless you like suffering in snow/ice the N. Cascades can be a bitch. Go to Bishop CA and climb dry rock in the Sierras. Buy Crofts book on the area, come home with a big tan and an even bigger smile. But then I am a rock snob. But I don't mind treading gently on snow/ice on the way to Nirvana. By the way Owens River Gorge is there plus extensive bouldering for "rest" days. And hot springs and few tourons!

Edited April 6, 2014 by matt_warfield

[Alex]

June is good time for traverses in the range and with the chunk of time you have and desire to go solo Im surpised you dont simply go Ptarmigan Traverse and Bailey Range traverse. All the other stuff except maybe Picketts trip is weekend or at most 3-day-weekend moderate fare, ...

[bedellympian]

Well I'm in Bend so N Cascades are a long drive for a 3 day weekend as supposed to Seattle or even Portland. Still, you're right Alex, I should do something awesome. Thanks for your encouragement.

 

I have a partner currently talking about doing a Rainier route with me at the end of that trip so that could prevent a Ptarmigan Traverse. Maybe I should just go Pickets ramble/scramble for five days.

[Alex]

The Ptarmigan Traverse that time of year can be done in 3-4 days pretty easy pace, I've done almost half of the total distance in 1 day over July 4th weekend in 2001, I think the biggest prob you will have is the car shuttle/logistics. But if you can get someone to drop you off at the Cascade Pass PL, while your car waits for you at Downey Creek, you'll be fine. IMO its honestly a much better venture than anything else you mentioned except Goode. If you take an extra day you'll get some extra summits.

 

The Bailey Range Traverse is more time commit, best to take more time, eg 5 days + but I've heard from multiple peeps that it was one of the best outings, ever. It's been on my list forever, but I never get the chunk of time you are talking about, so ... it stays on the list... And June is ideal for Bailey because snow still covers much of the what-turns-into-scree-later making travel above treeline much more efficient.

 

From Bend, I feel for you ... except no, not really, you have amazing outdoor recreation opps so no sympathy