mkschuster Posted February 14, 2014 Posted February 14, 2014 Trip: Niobe peak, Tantalus range, Squamish BC - North face, North East ridge Date: 2/8/2014 Trip Report: Winter Ascent of the North face of Niobe peak and moved over to the col to then follow the ridge to the summit. Very cold temps and great weather window. Here is a video that was made about it. check it out: Enjoy! Gear Notes: 2 7cm ice screws, few cams (nothing bigger than a BD size 1), nuts of all sizes and a couple hexes. Approach Notes: Crossed the Squamish river via cable and hiked up to lake lovely water. Skinned up to Niobe meadows to approach the bottom of the face. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted February 15, 2014 Posted February 15, 2014 Great work! I was thinking about that face during that last window, stoked to hear someone got on it. The Tantalus is magic, especially in winter condish. Its not often you get such conditions on the coast either. Bomber up high, dry approach. I was on the NF of sky pilot and found similar conditions, got the barfies real bad too. Good one boys! Quote
jrex Posted February 16, 2014 Posted February 16, 2014 Stellar climb!!! Nice work hauling the sticks up and over for what looked like an amazing trip. Quote
G-spotter Posted February 17, 2014 Posted February 17, 2014 AFAIK that's the FWA of the NE ridge. Despite the north face comment in the title, this is very similar in line to the original (1960) summer route up the NE ridge. Quote
Don_Serl Posted February 25, 2014 Posted February 25, 2014 Wow! Very cool - well done - looks like some entertaining sections, especially with skis on your backs! And excellent to see the adventure on video. It's great to see a few folk got out in that stellar settled weather to do stuff. Btw, Drew, re: your comment about this line vs the 1960 line, it's been about 30 years since I climbed the NE ridge so my memory isn't exactly fresh, but I'm sure we didn't traverse anywhere near as far right, nor reach the ridge as high, as this party. Quote
G-spotter Posted March 4, 2014 Posted March 4, 2014 . Btw, Drew, re: your comment about this line vs the 1960 line, it's been about 30 years since I climbed the NE ridge so my memory isn't exactly fresh, but I'm sure we didn't traverse anywhere near as far right, nor reach the ridge as high, as this party. The Fairley guide suggests climbing as high as the base of the north rib before moving left to gain the NE ridge at the notch, which is similar to what this party did. The Culbert guide shows the line joining the rib at the lower snowpatch. It's doubtless been done both ways multiple times, not to mention starting by climbing directly through the steep lower bluffs rather than outflanking them, which I recall once took a VOC party several hours. I would term any of these ascents as an ascent of the NE ridge. Quote
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