[TR] Mt. Shuksan - North Face 1/20/2014

[KatiCascades]

Trip: Mt. Shuksan - North Face

 

Date: 1/20/2014

 

Trip Report:

So, be kind...this is my first trip report and first climb I felt worthy of a trip report.

 

After mountaineering and climbing for a little more than a year, I finally convinced my friend (a much more experienced mountaineer than myself) that I had sufficiently paid my dues and at last he invited me on a climb - the North Face of Mt. Shuksan, and he wanted to do it in a single push. With a little trepidation, I agreed knowing that despite my limited experience I had the backcountry skills and endurance to pull it off.

 

After checking in at the ranger station, we headed to the Mt. Baker ski area and began our approach at 3:30 p.m. (talk about an alpine start). The approach was definitely the most painful part of the climb - 6 miles of route finding (no trail) with a small base of soft stale snow through slide alder, ravines, creeks and runouts of avi debris.

 

We began the actual route at about 10:30 p.m. For those not familiar, the north face involves sustained 40-50 degree slopes for approximately 3,000 feet. We roped up and simul climbed all but a short section (10-15 feet or so) that we protected & belayed in order to cross a nearly buried crevasse. The snow quality was mostly good, but there were several areas that had a firm crust with a soft/slushy layer underneath. This was at times a little unnerving as a seemingly good foot placement would sometimes slip a little underfoot. Nevertheless, the snow protected well, and we felt good. Perhaps one of the best moments of the climb, was the moonrise over the steep snowy horizon which made the going a lot easier with the increased visibility.

 

We ended up topping out at about 7:30 a.m. just as the sun was rising. We then traversed around the summit pyramid and began the final climb to the summit, which we did not protect. The snow was softening beyond my comfort level at this point, and only softened further as we neared the summit. I pulled off one extremely unnerving bouldery move near the top and allowed Andrew to skirt around me and belay me up for the final 10 feet. After a quick summit high five and photo, we rapped two rope lengths and down climbed the rest of the pinnacle and began our descent down the white salmon glacier.

 

After getting off the mountain, we retraced our boot tracks (route finding would have been pretty hard in the dark without them or the giant white homing beacon that the mountain served as for the approach). With the lack of sleep we both felt surprisingly good until the sun set for the second time…sleep deprivation hallucinations definitely kicked in for both of us at that point just to add another miserable component to the interminable bushwhack ahead of us. All told, the trip took us a slow 31 hours car-to-car.

 

Definitely, one my greatest mountain experiences to date and I can’t wait to get back out there!!

 

Gear Notes:

6 pickets, a few ice screws & pitons, 60m rope

Edited January 27, 2014 by KatiCascades

[Dchromey]

good job!! love your photos! especially the Baker one!

[ivan]

possibly the kewlest mountain here in the never(not)-wet

 

[dougd]

This is, IMO, one of the most beautiful N Cascade peaks. Nice job on this winter ascent of the N Face so early in your climbing evolution. The pics and write up are really good.

 

I bet you'd enjoy the Cooper Spur on Mt Hood someday. Preferably when it has more snow than this year.

 

Don't be too reticent to submit the gratuitous TR here in the future. Someone, somewhere, will find value in it…

 

d

[automated_build]

Alpine start indeed! Thanks for the time estimates, that's useful information from someone of a similar level

[Lukas]

i've been thinking about doing this route. if it's only 40-50 degree snow slopes, why so much pro? did you use it all?

[mthorman]

Nice photos, and a great job on getting that route! It looks super fun.

[KatiCascades]

Lukas, he had done it before and had known it to be heavily crevassed so ropes were in that regard pretty essential (I definitely post holed up to my waist through at least 3). I think the logic was that we didn't want to be roped together on 40 to 50 degree slopes without pro in case one of us did fall. There was probably also an element of him wanting to do everything by the book since he had a less experienced climbing partner.

 

Although we could have probably eliminated a few pickets, the screws & pitons were light and we use it all to be able to simul for as long as possible before having to stop & belay.

Edited January 29, 2014 by KatiCascades

[goatboy]

I am curious about your strategy -- although you were "by the book" and conservative in your protection, a 3:30 PM start (with no bivi) is not a typical or a conservative approach, assuming that you had already been awake for much of the same day you started.

 

Did you prefer not to bivy?

 

I am really impressed by your climb and the great photos, but am curious about the strategy behind your timing?

[KatiCascades]

Goatboy, I guess you are right on that point. But I guess people have different risk acceptance levels for different situations: a possible emergency biv w/ minimal supplies vs. the unknowns of a new climber's technical abilities?

 

Regardless, the motivation there was really not wanting to have to carry over. We also underestimated how long it would take us (We estimated +/- 24 hrs). In the end, I'm not sure I would have done much differently... maybe with time and experience that will change?

 

[goatboy]

Thanks for the answer -- I am not judging at all, just trying to understand what the strategy was.

 

I have also taken "unorthdox" approaches to things and am always curious how alpinists go about trying to strike the balance between time of day, commitment, ability, difficulty, weather, supplies carried, etc.

 

In the end, it's always an individual (or team) choice and I'm glad you had a safe, successful (if epic!) adventure.

 

[jeffwesley]

beautiful photography! great send!